WillieO

I've got new UK spec adjustables and if they're soft I'd hate any harder! On the hard setting (handbrake trick they are near rigid!) It corners like a go kart with 18" wheels. If those USA ones are the same its a no brainer at that price.

plus leather and black suedey stuff on doors and bottom half of dash. no ambient temp indicator tho!

yup, I got that on my uk series 2

trouble with the propshaft centre bearing is not that the bearing itself wears out but that the flexible rubber mount perishes and collapses leaving the propshaft sagging on the mount and free to waggle about if any great torque is applied. I might still have my old one but I am sure the bearing is smooth as silk. The rubber bit is bonded and a particlular shape.

you mean the bolt that in pairs holds a coil pack to the plenum. I've got one missing too. Reason is that the threads are stripped. You get some gung ho mechanic that thinks he has to torque every bolt to 70 lbft and bang goes the threads. The bolt has to be the right length as well because when it bottoms it strips also. You really need to drill down and re tap a bigger size or put in a helicoil. Or leave it alone like me - the coil pack sits there just fine with one bolt.

So what did santa get you?

Why did the French go protesting and shut down France this week? Why because they demand their early pensions at 58 or sooner and absolutely no change. But they also need to balance their books. What will their government do? As usual give in. Who will pay? Everybody in the Euro. Why? because printing more Euros is easier. How do think it got to thousands of Francs or Lire for a cup of coffee. The southern and eastern europeans are even more into printing money. They need UK in so we can share in being inflated? Harold Wilson did it years ago and robbed everybody who saved their money. The winners were all those in debt who didnt deserve it. If we do join it take as much Euro long term debt as you can get!

I only know of one lad in Edinburgh who needed these and got them from Courtesy. he said he had to buy the whole wishbones arm The rear bottom wishbone ball joint does not seem to be weak on these cars but I guess if the rubber boot ever perishes it would go bye bye quick with dirt. Had some debate on here about replaceable ball joints on the rear but I still think this had to do with the rear steering arm outer joint, not the lower suspension one. If it is replaceable why supply new wishbone arms? At least new arms would also have new bushes as well!

Chris Fuel cost was about £133. Litres 176 tank to tank. miles 959. So just under 25mpg overall. Was over 26 on the first leg but I guess my foot got heavier on the way home. I read that the new mini cooper is worse than that - helps me to justify the zeds otherwise heavy thirst running around town. I know which one I'd rather drive Just hope those red eye things didnt get me.

This guy was watched by the police at 120 through 40mph roadworks then at up to 156. He said as an excuse that he had just fallen out with his girlfriend.

Who says zeds arent reliable? Been down and up the country in 2 days (130K+ on mine.) Had to install some kit at Readings new sewage treatment works. Never seen such a large sewage treatment works! 26mpg even using a bit of boost now and then and didnt see another Z except mine's reflection in shop windows - as you do! Cruise control works at 100 too - scary! Also what are these yellow camera thingys with the red lenses facing you oncoming. Saw em near Peterborough. They dont make my detector beep? Hope they are off! Also all those single ones on poles near Lancaster about every couple of hundred yards.

The pressure regulator is just a ball bearing on a spring with the ball sitting snuggly in a seat. The ball lifts of the seat and lets too high pressure bleed away back to the sump. This is preferable to seals popping out! If you take the oil filter off you can see this ball (I think - not sure now if its not my other car) and push it off the seat even to check it isnt stuck open a little with some debris and causing a pressure leak. It doesnt go wrong normally. The zed also has a spring loaded valve that diverts some oil to the oil cooler when above a certain pressure - about 50psi I think. So that when you are working it really hard the max is going to the cooler. But at low rpm nothing goes to the cooler to keep the low pressure actually shoving oil round the engine. To re assure yourself just take off the oil filler cap when idling hot and you should see floods of oil over the camshaft lobes. You got to get used to these electric guages not being very reliable. A low pressure warning light would be better imho. At least you'd notice something wrong with it

What really makes my blood boil are those big notices on new projects - Funded by the European Commission ffs Its British tax payers who paid for it and more so long as we remain net payers in and it should damn well say so. politicians - parasites all of em

Roy Ireland did well out of the EEC up till now. Continental Europeans remind us that we have a lower standard of living than them yet UK, Germany and Holland are about it as far as net payers-in are concerned the rest are subsidy junkies on the take and another bunch of money printers want in! They do accounting like Enron! Its no surprise they want us in. The others dont play by the rules they set. Italian manufacturers send their workers home to do gardening when there's no work and pay 80% wages out of state funds then they go back when the work comes in. UK companies hand out 90day redundancy notices when the work runs out then its over. There are several European countries distorting competition by keeping their manufacturers on life support when according to the rules they are lame ducks and should be gone. God bless Europe its always there when it needs us!

the oil pressure sender has a little gizmo that runs up and down a carbon variable resistor track with the varying resistance being related to pressure shown on the guage. I think it then wears out the middle bit where it mostly is moving day in day out. Result when its cold it goes way up to the bit with no wear and registers probably a true 70 or more psi 5 bar+ etc and when its ticking over hot its anywhere around the 20psi (2/3rds the way to 30psi) mark. Every now and then it reads correctish with middle guage 50-60 at 3000rpm hot. Mine seems to do this for days then reverts to 30psi again but always high when started from cold. My 240Z was exactly the same

MAC1 What is the source for that quote you gave? Seems to me that semi synthetic is a mixture anyway of synthetic and mineral oil. I've been using fully synthetic for 3 years in a zed that had only semi synthetic all of its high mileage life. Result no problems no leaks. I use full synthetic in another high mileage turbo car that also had semis with all the dealer services - again no problem and no leaks. I have no problem topping up full synthetic with semi synthetic. It mixes fine and does the lub thing. I'd like to know for sure if this is wrong but I dont think it is. If it was you'd see warnings all over the sides of the oil packs. just my 2p

link is http://www.needforspeed.co.uk

Anyone used these people for stuff? Nice website easily searchable. I'm probably going to order a stainless exhaust system from them for my bad weather car.

John Found the number on a search here - chris witor 01749 678152. Get them next day or so by mail. Also you should check your discs for runout. Feel for rust on the inside surface as well - sign of sticking pistons. When I was sorting this problem I had a mate get the discs skimmed for me as a homer. Unfortunately they made one perfect and one worse. So I have a good stock disc available if you find only one of your discs is iffy. I had them on and off so many times that I decided sod it - 3gbrakes. They've been excellent.

John The easy replacement bushes are the polypropylene ones. I got them from Powerflex - Chris Witor. About £50. They dont take long to change, you just need a big vice to squash them in. I also had the dripping silicone filled ones and the disc shakes and only fully cured it by new discs from 3Gbrakes and rebuiding my calipers with new seals. Willie

Stuart Neat cuts, what kind of tin opener do you use? So does anybody do repair sections and sills yet or must you make them up as you go? Andy - did you have to renew the whole floor? That sounds like major surgery. Crikey if it gets that bad I might as well buy an import with a good body but blown engine, box and shabby interior and "convert" it to a UK car with good running gear! Probably cost less!

It goes like UK car plus high miles = rust. Japanese car low miles and the less time possible in UK = zero rust. Stuart, thanks for the piccy. Did you patch the inner bit as well? I will look forward to your diary of doing the front sills!!

First the good news. It passes its 3rd MOT since I've had it first time yet again. 130k+ miles. The bad news - only an advisory - says hole in floor near sill front off side. Had visions of my feet on the road Flintstones style! The hole is actually a little smaller than a 2p and right beside the sill section of the OS front wing in the underbody where it meets the sill. The tester has found some rust and poked it all away and right through it. It seems solid all around it though. So I guess some welding will be warranted before the next MOT is due. It is just at the place where tyre fitters jack it up and bend over the seams where the drain holes in the sills are. Damn UK salt and damp! Anybody got any pictures of what it looks like behind the sills?

Think there's 2 shims behind each pad. One with slots in it and one thats kind of half cut away so that the pad meets the disc with a kind of one edge first contact. Maybe you are missing these. Think you have to get them from Nissan. The manual shows them in the brakes section

stuck at minus 14 on the turbo guage is a bit unusual. If the air pipe to the sensor was off or burst it would show zero and you'd have rough idle with the air leak - should hear it hissing too. Might be a broken or stuck guage as it is electrical (I think?) As to Hicas light it is most often due to low power steering fluid. It uses the same hydraulic system - Check and top up!