WillieO

I went non aggressive, I'm a peaceful kind of guy! Still makes a good noise when you brake hard and stops real fast too. My theory was that non agressive with the spiral trailing was better for cooling as the air flow wants to go out the way away from centre as the disc passes thru between the pads. The aggressive way means the spiral is trying to pull air back to the centre which seems going against the flow to me. I can see it being more aggressive on the pad in cutting effect like a cheese slicer when fitted aggressive way round. Cant see any better braking effect on the aggressive way round other than the rasping of the pad!

Think its 25.7mph per 1000rpm in an manual TT versus 28ish mph per 1000rpm in an auto. Remember the auto has a lock up clutch but when you desire moderate acceleration short of the box changing down or kicking down the lock up drops out and the torque converter allows the rpm per mph to increase. In effect using torque multiplication gearing effect to increase torque to the axle and give acceleration. So it makes sense to have a high mph/rpm just because you can and still retain driveability - In a manual this would result in loss of driveability and responsiveness. In Auto 3rd locked up / OD locked out the ratio is the same as in a manual in 4th - ie. the gearbox is straight through input speed = output speed.

The UK / Euro one has 17% more cooling than the Japanese spec one.

Isnt that the problem with the Honda S2000. no torque and all trousers! Many tuned cars are like this. Nothing and all at once - fine on the track but useless on the road.

I just thought it was as daft as leaving your fridge door open to cool your kitchen. Plus the extra heat being pumped under the bonnet from the condenser plus the load even though it drops out at full throttle. No weight saving ether cos the T tops were in his boot!

Who else rides around with the aircon on auto and T tops off? Was surprised to see someone doing this on a standing quarter trial.

Nick I do use the handbrake even tho mines an auto - I have another even older (72) 3 litre automatic that gave me a brown trouser moment. It was parked in P and handbrake on but not tight - but the car ended up parked on the ramp of a ferry to Belgium. Anyway when it got there I stood back watching the ramp drop to the pier and the car just took off itself down the ramp with nobody in it. Thankfully it stopped at the bottom without hitting anyone. Since then I dont ever trust just P or handbrake! On that car the selector was a bit out of adjustment and it had not properly engaged park. Willie:)

Yup there's lots of older "supercars" cant use anything else so what do you think happens? Better they get topped up and used.

Which bushes are no longer supported??

The Autokool guy in central Scotland came out to me and did it to my 92 Z in the car park at the office summer before last - cost £80. He spent a couple of hours checking things and told me he put synthetic oil in as well as a flourescent die in case any leaks did turn up as he had a lot of trouble trying to inspect the piping in the dark packed bowels of a zed. He also got well puzzled with the two stage electric fan and the engine driven one and thought the leccy was broke because he just couldnt make it come on - it wasnt warm enough at the time Anyway it works and still works - so does the leccy fan that does come on in this weather when stuck in traffic with aircon on. Same guy just done my other car with R134a - £60.

I think when you are adjusting them you need to get back in the car and put the handbrake on and off a few times to help centre them then go out and adjust them again till they are almost touching the inside of the drums. maybe repeat this too. They shouldnt be worn out unless you try handbrake turns. Mine still work great after adjusting a couple of years ago and mine has galactic mileage on it. Oh and Nick, autos also still need an handbrake for MOT!

They have a compatible replacement - R416 i think. Got mine done year before last and it still works great. There was only 30psi of pressure left with the old stuff and they are not supposed to refill you with it - more likely they cant get hold of it any more and the aircon guys stash any supplies it for cars that just cant use anthing else without major mods - basically old Astons and the like. Maybe if you had a lot of refridgerant left then a top up might be possible but not officially permitted - as long as the aircon guy has a stash of the old stuff! R134A cant be used without mods - its not as efficient and the pressures are different - experts can correct this if not 100% accurate

Shims behind the top link mounts might be enough to bring the camber back near normal.

I used Mintex pads with my 3g 20's. They've been excellent but I got them from a local supplier and cant remember the reference so may be a different grade. Only about £35 too. They're now about half worn. They make a bit of a "rrrrrr" noise when you brake really hard but I guess thats more to do with the grooves.

Stuart Is the shape not simple enough to make out of two sections with a seam just where there already is a seam?

Maybe also clean out the idle valve which may be a bit gummed up - use carb cleaner spray - check manual - you need to disconnect the electrics from this to enable the idle rpm to be reset. Then it uses the ecu to hold the set rpm. This valve is at the back off the plenum RHS near to the battery.

Rick- some ideas - sorry if any is stating the obvious. Have you checked that the radiator cap is sealing properly and that it is the correct one? If it does not pressurise the system properly it will boil up in this hot weather and eject water anyway or eject then boil up. Squeeze the top rad hose when its good and hot. It should be firm and burny hot hot! If its soft then your cooling system is not pressurising or leaking somewhere. If its firm then the problem is elsewhere. Maybe a furred up radiator core. You should also have a feel at the radiator core when warmed up - engine-off of course. Feel for it being warmed up all over its area. Means reaching inside the shroud. If its well cold then it points to it being furred up. The top hose is the engine outlet and the bottom is the cooled water from the rad back to the engine. You might feel the temp difference. The bottom one should be cooler. Also try starting from cold- leave ticking over and keep feeling the top hose. It should suddenly warm up just as the thermostat opens. Should only take 10 minutes or so in this weather even at tickover. If the engine gets hot but the hose stays cool it could mean a stuck shut thermostat. If it warms up straight away gradually then the stat is stuck open. Unsual to be a bad stat though. Also is your leccy fan coming on as well? If you've aircon on then the leccy fan will come on too when good and warm in addition to the engine driven one. best of luck Willie

Including the zed - so when cruising there is no torque converter loss. Works in 3rd and OD 4th and even in 2nd I think on some / all Japanese imports? Also the mass of the torque converter must mean its at least as heavy as a flywheel. The Ferrari 550 / 575 auto box had a problem reving past about 6000ish due to its torque converter - maybe wanted to centrifuge all its oil I wonder if the auto zed one has any high rpm issues. Mine seems to have no problem kicking down and reving to 7000ish - scares me sometimes - keep imagining what would happen if the timing belt goes just then!

Should be covered by buildings insurance. Happened to my neighbour too. Their insurers try to make you claim on the car insurance but resist and insist they meet their liabilities

Wow 180K! Any advance? I keep wondering how much life my non oil burning 132k original turbos one has left in it 0W40 rules!

I think James is referring to the bit at the thick outer end of the arm - actually the bush fitted to the hub carrier - you meant the ball joint at the inner end inside the bellows gaitor that has the thin part of the arm attached to it

That would be the inner balljoint that just so happens to have the HICAS arm attached to it. Think my records show those having costed about £150 each side, fitted I think!

Look up diet coke, aspartame and diabetes on the net? You will waste hours and wont drink diet drinks again! They make you fat and ill!! Think about it fat people drink them and lots of them! Apparently it gets chemically altered in the body to something akin to wood alcohol causing symptoms like Parkinsons and MS!!! Makes you think!

Lack I dont think that works unless its really hot outside and you've got the aircon running as well. The engine driven fan will normally be enough to keep the temperature under control when idling. At least on UK cars - apparently with 17% ish bigger cooling than imports. Could have been something as simple as a rad cap not seating properly and with no pressurising possible he boiled up!

Peter Hood might have a standard silver tt for sale!!!