WillieO

My bet would be the two hoses under and to either side of the top water connection. I find that you get a small split in one that only lets go when good and hot and it heals up again when the engine is running cool. However the water trickles down on the fan pully and gets spun away. Small makeup mirror and torch to look under the top conn when hot and engine off! Also feel top hose for pressure - if soft when hot then you have a pressure leak somewhere.

Can also be a small leak on a hose. Just enough to hold pressure when running but suck air in when cooling down instead of sucking back extra water from the expansion tank. Or worse gas creation - head gasket Or air locks from rushed anti freeze adding.

One blinding reason is that you will get greatly increased negative camber all round. This is fine if you will spend your days going round the track pulling 0.9g but for everyday use you will scrub the inside edges of your tyres. Also your suspension arms wont sit at their design angles. So poly front tie rod bushes will be stressed even when going straight and level with no bumps. Pillow ball type would be different but they bring their own stress issues when potholes are encountered. Sure you can compensate with adjustable top links front and rear but there were recent reports of these failing with some makes. Also on top of this you need to tell your insurer who would use it to relieve you of yet more cash. If you want trick electronic set up then fit UK rears and US spec fronts. They have actuators to turn the damping hard (sport). But even normal on a UK one is pretty firm with 17" or 18" wheels

Actually quite please with my Bell renewal this morning - £370. Strange thing is the zed is cheaper than my other car a Rover by £5. Same 10k miles a year and same business use. Must mean Rovers are more dangerous than zeds! Well 210bhp thru front wheels it might be.

Well they quoted for me. Also I have full business use on both cars. My 4th year renewal is due soon. I didnt go with the chip however. Most insurers take extra premiums for add ons like wheels and custom exhausts but dont cover them for being damaged or knicked. They claim the car is made more knickable because of said widgets - hence increase on premium.

snake oil - maybe if you were in some country with alcohol and old varnish in the petrol.

The auto control means what ever temp you set will be the cars objective. However the priority is to get the engine up to temperature first. Only then does it come on suddenly and start pumping heat into the car. Otherwise the engine warm up would take much longer to achieve. Turn on your bum warmers instead! If you keep moving the target it will change priorities, fan speed etc and whether footwell or windscreen ducts open etc to get what you've set it to. Also remember when you set it to auto you are on "aircon on" as well so the chiller part is running to de humidify the air. If its not raining or damp you will get a faster warm up inside the car by switching to econ so that the aircon compressor is cancelled. You will also save fuel! Mines has been set to 23 and left there for as long as I can remember. Aircon should be run on auto regularly through the winter, say once a week, to keep the lub pumped around the aircon components - especially the compressor moving parts. Otherwise they can seize.

Lidl £7 for portable 500W halogen. Get a heat off em too!

Been with them 3 years as i was able to apply max ncb to the zed and my other car. No claims fortunately They do lump on the costs with mods tho. Intake +£35 Exhaust + £35 Wheels etc Uprated chip +£250

Saw an ad for ceramic after market discs by Tarox. They look like they have little segments of ceramic set into the casting. Says also that you have to use their sintered pads. Anyone tried em yet? http://www.tarox.com/english.html Also a faq section here Looks like they dont have em for zeds yet unless you buy their big brake mods.

Blue Peter always used either a squeezy bottle (washing up liquid for you young uns) or a toilet roll tube. For this one the squeezy bottle looks like the solution! :) Heck its Monday and not such a daft idea

rad cap return valve could be stuck

Jack the front wheels up and spin the wheels to feel for dragging brakes or iffy wheel bearing. If it is due to tyres you can prove it by swopping over the fronts. Obviously only temporarily as directional tyres if fitted are dangerous in the wet when on the wrong way round.

Be careful that you are not taking this improved airflow thing to extremes. Just because you have say 300 cm2 of IC area it doesnt mean you need you need 300 cm2 of airflow before and after the IC. In fact too much can actually cause turbulence and slow the through air flow. The obvious example of good airflow to a radiator is the E type jag. There you have the small oval mouth and the big radiator well behind it. This gives optimum airflow through the rad fins. On the zed there is also the venturis on series 2s that are designed to drop air pressure behind the ICs so as to pull air through them. These are simple add ons if you dont already have them. You'll be fitting small electric fans behind each IC now wont you ;)

is 6000rpm in 3rd not still about that speed? The limiter is speed based not rpm - ecu counts pulses from the gearbox output shaft. A brick wall sensation really sounds like the speed limiter, not a fuelling or other engine problem.

It must do. Why else would Nissan put a level indicator on the overflow tank dipstick unless there was a recommended correct level. Also too much and it overflows the expansion tank anyway. This seems to me the reason why the level in the rad is always in the neck of the filler right to the top - it keeps itself topped up by sucking water back from the expansion tank when it needs to. You find that the rad cap can have a valve on it for sucking back - tho cant say I had a good look at it.

Also a firm in Falkirk that specialises in Skylines So look and ye shall find!

Only with copyright issues! A touch of discretion might be in order !

Sounds like you better leave well alone because each mod will hike your premium seriously at your age. The charges are % based and an intake and exhaust only put £60 on my premium and mines is a low one! For a chip they wanted £275 extra. Enjoy and be content with a quick enough good looking car for now! Lowering springs bring other problems and camber issues. Plus its yet another mod to tell the insurer.

Its not the Japanese restriction to 112mph 180kph that is still in place? A KPH/MPH converter or still at kph? What about Falkland in Glenrothes - They are into hot cars. where in the kingdom are you?

Defo H20 plus fine carbon grains plus unburnt hydrocabons, some nitrous and other acids. In fact if you only do a load of short journeys in very cold weather the back boxes will fill up with this dirty water and the first time you brake hard for a roundabout or whatever the water will charge back up the exhaust and get to a really hot bit and turn to steam. You then get a big cloud of steam coming out that makes you think something is really wrong but its just your cars way of telling you to take it a decent run to dry it all out!

Could also be less than optimum compression pressure or a bit of ring/bore wear giving leak down. Watched the video wiv me anorak on;) I noticed a few were belching the odd puff of smoke out the zorsts at full whack. Wondered is this normal or a sign of breathers chucking oil vapour into the inlet or what else causes it? You see cases on here with upped boost etc then a few weeks later they're dropping more smoke than the Red Arrows and wondering if a new pcv will cure it!

A header is the US expression for an exhaust manifold. The normal manifolds are cast iron. A fabricated tubular steel multi branch (bananabunch) is the optimum for tuned gas flow. But could be an expensive extra few bhp. They're in the Stillen catalogue as well with Stillens estimate of power gains.

Yup Seen it happen. Insurance assessors always open the box when it comes to hot cars. Neighbours Escort cossie had a wiring loom fire but they refused to pay out after discovering a chip that the owner honestly did not know about. He had not had it that long and thought that was how fast it was supposed to be.

Exhaust design makes a big difference with NA's. NA design depends on tuning exhaust pulses so that each pulse of exhaust gas coming as the valves open helps to pull gas out of the next cylinder as the valve opens. This helps the engine breath better at the designers chosen rev range torque band. Get the design wrong and you can have great power at max revs but lousy torque at low revs. This is not the case with turbos. With turbos you just want to let the exhaust out as fast as possible without worrying about tuning for pulse effects. The energy is used driving the turbo. The power gains wont be as much as with turbos because of this.