WillieO

broken bushes in the rear maybe HICAS arms?

its usually Nigeria that does the so called 419 advance payment scams - South Africa is usually not like this - or didnt used to be. This could be for real just watch out for any monies asked for from you for bank charges

Simple test to see how bad is to place the tip of a screwdriver against the rust and press - be ready for a shock as you go right through it - if its good steel nothing will happen - except if you dont hold the screwdriver tight andf it skids up the wing scoring as it goes! The wing is double skinned there and the bit inside the wheelarch will be rotten too. I think it catches condensation inside or the drainaige from the top. Funny as the nearside is perfect. I had bother matching the red perfectly too - I can just see it in some light but nobody else seems to spot it. Take a look at the rear lower part of the sills too - if the wheel arch has got it so's your sills.

power is torque times revs. So you can have a lot of torque low down at not many rpm but none at the top of the rpm band and a high bhp. A diesel is like this. What it can mean is almost the same max bhp at 4000rpm and at 6000 rpm. Many hot engines have no torque low down but enough at high rpm to give big tested bhp figures. However driveability is better with the car with a flat bhp curve and big torque low down. If you see some of the rolling road charts you'll understand as they chart torque and bhp against rpm. You can see the power curve drops off when the torque is already well on its way down the hill. This is also the point of max transmission loss as well. Also a big bhp motor isnt necessarily quicker as you cant keep the rpm at the big bhp point without lots of gears and gearchanges.

Think pre cats had to do with reducing emmissions during the warm up phase.

As I understand it the injection pulse time dictates the amount of fuel delivered so assuming it was set for 440's then using it with 370's would make it run weak. Similarly using it with 550's wil make it rich. The time pulse should be shorter for the same power demand. Maybe the feedback from the O2 sensors can adjust this to some extent but I'm not up on that. running weak on 14psi is not to be recommended! Holed pistons come to mind. I think with your investment a mod to the programming is worth doing to ensure its set for 550's. Rich running will not only waste loads of fuel it could also lead to bore wash and increased cylinder wear due to the oil being washed off. Still you'll prolly get flames out the zorst if you like that kind of thing;)

An F40! Least thats where i saw some and they looked about 12" wide rims

Prolly better getting your new tyres afterwards!!! Slicks are better on track! New pads and high temp brake fluid before would be good and a reality check as to what it could cost you. My neighbour got too excited with his new model STI Scooby and the £50 track morning he went to enjoy ended up costing over £700 when he spun off after braking too late and crunched a front wing on the tyre wall. He was very lucky only to crunch the wing and nothing else tho. Enjoy but be careful too.

You have to get like a dentist going at a bad tooth and cut out all the rot. You'll find that the inner bid inside the wheel arch has it too and you need to get that out as well. I guess you have a UK car like me and only these bubbles on the off side at just about the 10 or 11 o'clock position on the arch? I did mine a year or so ago and its still OK. Filled the inside with waxoyl at the same time and into sills as well. Putting on some rust cure on the surface is a waste of time. Fraid it means some plastic filler in the arch.

Now who said rover or zed drivers were calm collected witty people who could spell and make meaningful contributions to the joy of life? signed Rover and Zed driver - 3 turbos for me!

I like my grandadmobile and my zed. Love wiping out bmws with the grandadmobile in a straight line anyway!

Nice one. Let us know how they are?

Would put money on it staying with the rx7 in a straight line on a dry road. My 800 vitesse sport has the same engine and mines about 210bhp with a big zorst. 60 in 6 with the 200 and about the same as a stock auto tt zed to the ton. If the rx's rotor seals are on the way out it'll be toasted! Easy to up the boost on the rover to give 265bhp but stock pistons melt after that. There's some with forged ones and 18psi boost hitting over 300bhp from a rover 2 litre! Bet my old 800 would embarras a stock na zed. too Done 90 k in it and its still brill. Same garret turbo as well and original clutch! Saves me wasting my tt on the fog and greasy roads.

Dont worry the engine will go or it will stop you! Just make sure you have an AA relay subscription - then you'll never need it! I've never used mine and been paying for it for years. Prolly need it next week for saying that

http://members.cox.net/impunity/endofworld.swf Quick explanation of where we are now. Incidentally according to Horizon last night the climate is going to freeze up so dont waste money on big ICs. Also according to next Thursdays Horizon some maths fundi bod has found a secret code in the good book that says the world will end in 3 years. So you know when to over borrow for all those mods you could never afford!

Cant you just pull the HICAS system fuse and disable it to prove it? I had the wobblies with a duff rear shocker. Sideways skip on bumps - also had loads of toe in due to new HICAS arms having been fitted before I bought it and no toe in having been checked. All sorted and fine for ages now

first of all I hope you arent gunning it when stone cold. Next it might be worth getting the ignition timing checked for the correct advance in case the cas had been moved. Otherwise you might have a boost upgrade too high with mig tips. Also check your ecu to see if its been socketed and fitted with a new chip. I doubt that the ICs are getting heat soaked in this weather but it could be the case if your doing short sharp bursts in traffic and no crusing to cool em back down. A boost guage sound a worthwhile add on for you. If it is going into safety boost 7psi instead of 9 or so then stopping the engine and re starting should re set it again.

You could be detting and safety boost is coming on. Have you tried Optimax? Did you notice any drop in the boost guage whn this happens?

The strainer out of a deep fat fryer has even more. But it'll allow stones through it. Those stainless mess jobs let through particles big enough to tear up the leading edge of the inlet turbine blades and do you really want early bore and ring wear? Keeping the car long term I know which I prefer even if it costs a couple of bhp.

http://www.z32.org/html/z32perf.shtml has lots of comparisons intake exhaust chip auto etc

Mine allows from 30mph to 90mph - uk car I find 90 scarey - like someone else has their foot on the loud pedal! Especially when the curvy bits come

now you have to tell your insurer! Its a mod and could cost around £35 extra pa

Spoken wiv an American accent! Stillen Email just in Would be about £300 plus then you need to add shipping and customs etc but Nissan UK rear shocks alone costs pover £270.

Think you need to do a search on boost jets and ecu or chip upgrades. Also boost controllers. Plenty to study bon chance

Well you're back to 3g stock size grooved as the best alternative.