WillieO

Then they slip in new patches to let Mr Gates know exactly what you are using and doing and to slyly crook certain copying programs that they dont want you using!

Bushes are not too hard. Did mine in 3 hours on a Saturday morning. Hammer and chisel to bash the old ones out and vice and hammer and drift to get the new ones in. £160 ish the 8 bush NISMO set from Middlehurst.

My UK has folding mirrors - you just got to fold em yourself! Plus UK has famous 2 stage leccy rear shocks that can go hard with the handbrake up a notch in diagnostic mode - apparently also connected to the HICAS system but nobody knows for sure under what conditions they switch to hard. One of these days I'll fit a light to the circuit and let you know.

Hope he realises he's got the wheels on the wrong sides in the first piccy otherwise it's gona be fun in the wet

Bigger rad on UK and oil coolers plus oil cooler on the diff as well for so called continuous high speed running on autobahns etc! Free rust unfortunately on some UKs.

Maybe check your gearbox / tranny for leaks - any drips on the ground? Could be something leaking or dripping onto the hot pipes

Hope nobody took me serious in the sense of auto vs man - red vs black. Both cars were not in the exact same state of tune. The red one was with SE chip, SE modified heads, big ICs and the black one was also chipped but I think he was stuck in safety boost at the time and didnt realise it.

video mpg of Crail quarter mile Well you did ask to see it. Red versus black auto versus manual The red one is Colin Dicks and the black was semco32's at the time. Colins auto was doing the quarter in about 13.2 I think. Hope this works. I cut out wait between the burnout and actually starting and shrunk the file a bit as well.

Squeezed 7X5s 3 way Kenwoods in the stock brackets at the rear - just re drilled the fixing holes and used thick rubber gasket to do a good seal. Next best thing to 6X9 and big mods

Anorak warning - Autocar road test got stock 90 manual TT at 129mph at 1 kilometre so about 0.6 miles and 25.6 seconds. So leaves you with almost a mile left and much less than 30 seconds left since your already going at more than 2 miles a minute. Doubt if the stock TT would see a real 145 before you crapped it and went for the brakes assuming you intend to stop before the runway ends;) 2 to 2.5 miles is probably what you'd need to hit true 155.

good explanation about bhp and dynos

Some people think the 0 part makes it too thin. Its nonsense. As explained already the 0 part refers to the viscosity when cold and the 40 or 50 or 60 for when hot. If the 0 was too thin then the oil pressure cold would be lower than the oil pressure when hot. It aint. I would rather have 0 or even less for cold rating especially in winter. You want those bearings getting lubbed when cold not spread with thick honey. Plus you have less chance of blowing crank seals and the like with sky high cold oil pressure. So while 60 might be OK for a hot worn engine in peak summer or for track use its just a drag the rest of the year and saps power. 40 for hot is fine for a fast road car.

If the prop centre bearing is original then it will be well sagged and the rubber mount persished. Search on it here - loads of opinions. Certainly got to be a favourite and if its been gone a long time then the actual universal joints on the shaft could also be on the way out too. Feeling it through the seat a give away and also a new gearbox mount would make the angle of sag worse on a sagged centre bearing than before the gearbox mount was fitted.

Nah Trevz. Its nowt to do with fan speed or velocity in that sense. The way it looks is the bi metallic coil changes the twist on the clutch valving gizmo and that changes the slip rate allowed. The oil doesnt get any thicker. There's maybe some vanes or something in the coupling that drag more as the valving changes with temperature. So the oil still gets thinner as it gets hotter as most oils do but the drag on the coupling changes because the spiral bimetallic spring alters valving or something. See what your bro says ;) Defo agree with you here Just dont agree that the oil thickens up - it thins but thats beside the point We should have had this discussion wiv our anoraks on in the pub!

bolt the wheel back on - if it wobbles then well then it points to problems at the wheel bearing or elsewhere. Banging or knocking usually down to worn bushes, top links maybe or not sufficiently tightened bolt thru tension rod bushes.

Think that just means the other disc is rust gunged tight on nothing else. I think the wheels hold the disc tight to the hub normally. ie, take off the caliper and the disc just falls off. If your hub itself is wobbling on the shaft then that's a sure sign of a finished wheel bearing

from machinedesign.com OK Trevz looks like you are partly right:) Except I dont think the oil gets thinner as it gets hotter. Its the other way round - lowered copler fluid viscosity with heating. I had thought the clutch locked up solid with the bi metal gizmo but it just changes the slip from the maximum slip to the maximum drive - 90 - 95 % of pulley speed. You learn somat new every other day here! So Mike any nearer sorting the overheating?

Suspect quotation warning! The UK car has electrically controlled 2 stage adjustables -stiff and near rigid. I replaced mine - they certainly are not set up spongy They are made by Tokico and you re use the actuator off your old ones. Cost is about £120ish each from Nissan. Why would Nissan sell import ones for £35 each for imports and the other price for UK ones? Search for more opinions.

You have to start by running the engine from cold. Leave it ticking over. Every few minutes feel the top hose. If the cooling circuit is fine the top hose will stay cold for a while then suddenly heat up. That point signals your thermostat opening and hot water getting to the radiator. The top hose should also be hard with pressure. Was your radiator new or 2nd hand because it might be furred up inside with no flow. I can understand running the heater cooling it off in this weather because the outside air temp difference means a lot of cooling effect even via a heater. I bet your radiator is stone cold or has cold patches on it - feel the matrix as far down as poss after switching off. If its truly burning hot all over then i'll be amazed. And sorry Trevz but the viscous doesnt get thicker if it gets hotter it just slips. The viscous coupling is designed to transfer just enough torque to shift enough air at tickover and slip when the engine revs higher unless it gets so hot that the bi metal clutch locks up then it shifts a lot more air and you will hear the noise when you rev it when it does so. It will only happen in this weather if you are stuck in a jam for at least a half hour imho. My bet is still a furred up rad or thermostat stuck shut or in the wrong way round so that the waxstat bulb is on the cold side of the circuit rather than on the hot side. Meaning the only real cooling circuit open to the engine is via the heater core. If you are convinced that the rad is good and there are no head gasket probs or cracks then run it with the thermostat out. It should never even reach the normal on the guage if the rad is good. I've been stuck on the m25 mid summer 28 deg C aircon full on and there was no sign of it even getting too warm so I know the z cooling is good even on the TT.

pull the hicas fuse

Trust me the viscous coupled fan has a bi metallic coiled spring clutch. Fact is that when the car is moving at 30+mph you do not even need a fan at all so its nothing to do with that. The fan only locks up when its really hot in traffic in summer otherwise there's usually enough airflow even with it slipping as normal. Does the top hose get hard as the pressure builds? When you re built it did you check for, God forbid, cracks in the heads or block? If its chucking water out it must have gas behind it. Or could the thermostat be fitted wrong way round? That would cause same symptoms.

If you have really drenched the air filter then it will be wet inside and any moisture in the AFM will stay there. I think you should take off the panel between the lights and take off the filter and dry it properly then get a splash guard or similar before refitting or dont drive it in this very wet weather. Otherwise it'll keep wetting the AFM coil gizmo which is very small. Then the ecu does not know how much air the engine is swallowing and cant match the fuel properly hence backfires etc. It might even damage the AFM sensor permanently.

Mate got his Scooby STI tuned in motion with a laptop interfaced to to ecu - seems it can re program it as you drive it. The chap who did it took a serious charge for a couple of hours work and extensive test driving. I understand the improvement was significant So I take it you cant re program a zed eprom while still using it?

Maybe still a few drops of wet on the air flow meter. Once it dries it should be OK no?

Think its called Hypertech