WillieO

I understand that these spacers work by crushing the softness out of the bushes to make the subframe rigid with the body. Will this not also make the zed incredibly noisy inside with the noise transmission. I find 18" wheels and tyres bad enough for noise transmission. Surely this would make the car near unbearable for normal driving?

UK still has the small sidelights next to the indicator lenses and depending on the year it also has dim dip where the headlight bulbs get dimmed by a resistor in the circuit when ignition is on - maybe thats what you mean. My 92 UK series II has dim dip headlights - switch to sidelights and the headlights dim and you also have sidelights as well.

Mines has been suffering what feels like an intermittent misfire as well but plenty of power at the top end. Thought TPS but meter says its fine then checked the RHS connector to the PTU - thick with green oxide. Now cleaned and so far no sign of the misfire. I didnt realise there was a LHS connector until reading the posts here so will check that is clean next but I guess that means taking off the boost pipes to get at it. Maybe has to do with the time of year humidity rising temperatures etc encouraging the oxide in the connectors.

Is it not a case of gently getting the rr speed up past the point of where it can still kick down to second? obviously keeping the OD off so it does'nt get past 3rd which is straight through the box. Maximum power should be around 120 ish mph this way and 6000rpm. Obviously its been done before. How do they do it? Also with a stock ecu car all you can adjust is the base timing advance angle and tune for max power before detonation on whatever fuel you use.

uk now past 136k

So will that make the headlights even better than just using silvering on the inside? What just a hairdrier and some shrink silver plastic?

Can u still do donuts in it?

I think it is locking up on very light throttle if I back off and at 40ish with some light accelerator there is sometimes a slight vibration from the gearshift as though it was labouring the engine or the prop was waggling. Autobox diagnostic gives 10 short flashes and changes and power are otherwise fine. Will check out the volts on the tps as soon as but I hope this isnt a sign of the box about to go t*ts up Incidentally I've never ever felt the lock up happening when over drive is off yet the manual shows it should do it above 60mph even in 3rd

And another - mine too - the invite I had through the post didnt have the date on it! But now I know its 2nd May!!

I had a slight light throttle misfire sometimes last few weeks and now I notice the lock up in OD top seems to have stopped working. Any ideas what is most likely to have gone wrong? Thought maybe the tps or its connections.

Are you talking new cars? If so there is good business with new cars bought from dealers in the republic. They get bought tax free in the republic, "exported to UK" and VAT paid on the import price then registered as new. With a strongish pound against the Euro and high car taxes holding down new car ex factory prices in Ireland you can see how it happens. Disadvantages can be that models are different spec options etc to similar UK dealer models - typical A/C missing etc or goodies standard here. The main dealers here dont like it either for obvious reasons.

The BBS caps on mine have the silvering going off with some kind of tinworm.

by Rich Why yes. Or is someone gona say that the weight seaving over a stock Nissan alloy bonnet justifies 4 mars bars worth of mass. Moving one's bowels would save more weight. Just another toy for the person with more cash than sense. Guess I had a good look at one on a Ferrari F40 - you could see the mat weave through the paint. Thought it might be a kit car copy at first but it was the real thing - all carbon fibre and very silly money. Hardly compares tho

£300 extra to chip it stopped me doing that

HBC065 calcium battery fits a UK but you need a rubber block or similar under the clamp because it is smaller than stock but no less powerful

possibly prejudice in that nobody expects a badge holder to run a zed - maybe they thought, aye right if you can get in and out of a zed you cant be entitled to that.

I got a Calcium battery from harrys when they were about £45 at the time with 25% off. It has the same I think 565A rating as original but was a lot smaller than the Nissan one. I junked the black box with the polystyrene stuff as well. Mine is UK and the positive connection needed pulled a little to meet the smaller battery. I'll have a look later to tell you the type. Other benefit of the smaller size is much more room around it for air and hopefully the turbo wont roast it even without the black box. Anyway been in a while now and no probs

Also makes the back end much much more sensitive and hairy in the wet under power! Mine was at 7mm toe in after the previous owner had new HICAS arms fitted then never bothered to get the tracking reset. Sort it and you'll be surprised at how much better and stable the rear is. Plus the tyres last a lot longer

Hes puttin on weight to be jabba the hutt a bit older in the next star wars

Got the 20gr 3g on the front only last two years and they are fine. At that time they cost about the same as Nissan stock. Still only the Mintex pads although they are due to be changed soon. They make a slight rrrrr noise if you brake hard from high speed. No more dust than normal either surprisingly. Mines also needed the calipers rebuilding - stuck pistons both sides. I think thats what quickly warped the previous new Nissan stock discs. Bitch to re seal as I had to re fit calipers with no discs and G clamps holding the free pistons so I could hydraulic out the stuck ones. £35 for seals and hours and hours to free off. Stock discs on the rear are more than adequate So works fine now. Only picky if you are that way inclined is with 18" wheels they look tootsy.

Nothin wrong with RS0-40 Castrol - mines on its 4th or 5th gulp since Ive had it and changed every 6k miles. 40 or higher is the important number when hot and 10 or below, the lower the better, when cold. An engine running with 40 hot viscosity will give more power than the same engine running with 60. 60 might quieten a rattly worn engine. 60 might give added protection on a very highly stressed and hard used engine. The rest of the time it wastes fuel and power.

Just ask your insurer to quote you happy after you chip it:)

b would win. less energy needed to get its rotating bits rotating so more to shove it forward.

Cant you still do the o2 sensor diagnostic where you rev to 2000rpm and see that both sides are still switching on and off 5 times in 10 secs etc proving that the mixture is correct at the light load end anyway? Did it on mine by shorting the two terminals on the connector below the rhs dash. Easy to do. Theres no way for a garage to do it at high engine outputs unless he's also got it on a rr to put load on it.

Steve All that counts is rwhp. The measured loss is an estimate and an auto transmission isnt measured correctly. In theory the power loss of an auto in locked up 3rd gear is exactly the same as a manual in 4th gear because the torque converter is by passed and the diff is the same in either case. Not sure if welly to the floor cuts out the lock-up clutch and re introduces the torque converter tho. Loss is probably more like 60bhp depending on rpm max power is seen as losses are proportional to transmission rpm. Is yours modded or stock?