WillieO

slow revs and torque any day over screaming and none - the stock zed has about 275 pounds foot against the S2000's 150 pounds foot. Torque talks!

My detector beeps away most of the time these days on radar and shop doorways but the laser warning was one rarely saw till recently. I am very aware now and even yesterday was "lit up" by a parked van that I'd already spotted. The detector goes mental. It lasts only a second and if I'd been speeding it would merely have served to let me know I was already nicked. Straight section of open country road with light traffic, no kids, cows or sheep but just the sort of place you might be tempted to go a bit quicker on. So I guess he had grounds to suspect me of wanting to exceed the limit because the car was red? Coming to the suburbs to enforce the 30 would be more useful but not so much fun.

Its normal. Revs pretty much can drop to 700 at speeds below 40 ish but not quite so low on higher speeds, at least on mine. At much higher steady speeds you should be on locked up clutch and no fall in revs. When OD is off you get engine braking but not when OD is on.

I thought this was a bit of a myth about UK susspension being firmer. Why would they do this. It would just cost more which I am sure they will try to avoid at all costs (pardon the pun)

There's no escape from this one except the jammer. Detectors are a total waste of time for this. I got collared from half a mile away in an instant on the motorway even tho on the brakes as soon as the van was spotted. Its gona be hard to find anybody without points soon. Heck you need this jammer both ends and its hardly something to swap easily to other cars. Plus if you ever were to get stopped you can forget any thought of a warning or sympathy I think they could easlily impound your car.

Can just see Ferrari owners doing it with the 360 Modena not

Mine does the same. Did it last year too and the year before. I think you need to worry when you see the smokescreen in your mirror! This kind of smoke is so much more noticeable in summer cos there isnt the condensation to hide it. If you didnt have to add much oil during your 2k then its not burning it.

Defo 72 litres - ran out once after running with the light on for about 45 miles. 3 litres from a can to get to a garage and 70 to fill it back up ouch. Nobody has sympathy when you run out withy a zed. Saw 325 miles once with slowish moway driving but mostly from 16 to 19mpg, 16 in winter and 19 in summer.

Ask someone who knows nothing about cars which one looks better.

Yup. was overtaking and I share your views on middle lane hoggers and dont myself. Still dont feel I deserved it but was lucky to be just below an appearance. I had been wanting to find out where a true ton was but now I dont care - wont go there again! at least on that road;) Heck it was for less than a minute. How many do it for hour after hour and get away with it? Have they all got cloaking devices? Its a lottery!

By Billynomates It was on a tripod and it was aimed at the crest of the hill and the middle lane and guess who was in it? That is exactly the way these smart chappies were working. The traffic was light so the middle lane was the place to be. Only lucky that it wasnt too over the top on speed. There is no way a laser detector can detect through hills so they have you the moment you come into view with no warning. Not very sporting was it but there it is. I use a detector and normally am very well behaved. A jammer might have saved the day but they also had a chase car on the bridge ready to chase down real ravers and possibly jammer suspects. No doubt they also had a very good piccy of the driver as you drive under the bridge. They claimed they had the video frames with the evidence. The GPS mentioned was a handheld palm being used in the car at the time to check the speedo. The stoopid things one does in a car! Anyway the GPS and the NIP were bang on agreement. Even though the brakes went on immediately not 1mph was wiped off before being got. I am just confirming that there are some circumstances you cant beat. This isnt hearsay.

http://www.ukspeedtraps.co.uk/frames.htm Never mind detectors laser road angel whatever. You have absolutely no chance against a well sited laser system on a tripod aimed at the crest of a motorway hill from a bridge half a mile away. Guess how I know? You crest the hill at private test track speeds with your GPS telling you what the speed really is and guess what? you are nicked in half a second even though you are sharp on the brakes the very second you see the bridge in the distance with the van on top. And the NIP confirms the GPS dead on. Your only hope is to always crest motorway hills or bends below the "your nicked" speed or invest in a device to jam laser and perve the course of justice. But then you might need one front and rear and risk the not inconsiderable cost of perving the course of justice. The laser gets you with a narrow beam up to nearly a mile away. You could always paint the car matt black and have a liquid crystal blackout on the front number plate it targets though. Or just watch the speed. Its game over now. and as for you guys that break the rear spoiler doing custodial sentence speeds. Methinks there wont be much more of it except on runways.

Mine was showing nothing then slow on the left O2 - nearside one on the run engine test at 200rpm. In the end it was connector sickness - the connector is at the back of the plenum N/S and you'll see the three wires gong into it red black white. Try disconnecting this scrape clean the terminals re fit and re run the engine running diagnostic. Hold at 2000rpm a little while as it might be slow to react. Mine was at first but when the connections were cleaned up it went as fast and responsive as the other side. Ive now done all the usual suspects CAS, PTU, TPS, MAS and I do not remember the engine running this good in a long time. AT 10+ years old every single connector under the hood has corrosion on it leading to all kinds of obscure misfires, hesitation fast idle etc. The zed engine tries to compensate for so many things and has fail safes that just confuse you as to where the problems really are.

Paul Well its worked OK for 2 summers and No3 coming up. The fact that he vacuumed it for ages to purge it first, does that not help? He said it would boil off any residual stuff inside. He also put in flourescent dye so any leaks would show up easier. Maybe I'm wrong about the lub type. The guy was only doing aircon, his own business, and serving loads of dealers as well.

I'm on the same size tyres without problems. Find 34 ish front and 36 ish rear is fine. Maybe you need to check how sound your rear shockers are and look for wear in the outer and inner HICAS rack joints. Any play there and the rear wheels want to follow ruts and camber. If yours is UK you can handbrake up one notch at speed to put the rear shocks on stiff and see if it makes a difference. I had one stuffed soft shocker and it made the back end skip about sideways especially over manhole covers. Replaced both and sound.

Think it was R416 - some kind of drop in replacement for R12 that went into mine plus synthetic ester lub. The guy said to use R134a was not correct as the drier and other bits would have to be changed and it was also not as efficient in an R12 system. Maybe just his opinion but it still works fine after 2 years and I had him do my other R134 car as well last summer.

Just did mine with round 6" or 6.5" cant remember but no drilling needed and with the biggest magnets possible - the backs just about touch the window glass with the window down. Pleased with the result Some do a bit of cutting and fit 6X9's got the dims at home someplace

If you've got small hands reach under and try turning the bit in the middle of the aircon compressor pulley. Engine off of course!!! If it free wheels then it's not seized. On the zed if the pressure falls below 30psi the compressor operation is locked out. iirc Also you might find the system is working but there is not enough gas to really chill the car. Have it idling, switch aircon to auto, you should hear the idling pick up and maybe hear the aircon compressor click in, then bonnet up and feel the metal pipe with the little sight window on it round by the battery. If the pipe starts to get warm fast then the compressors working, theres some gas left and a recharge will prolly sort it. When its fully charged and switched on you can see the liquid swirling in the window. When its low you see loads of bubbles in the window. Empty - nothing.

You might find that the piston has some rust pitting on it as well but cant see it till the piston is right out. New pistons are about £25 each.

Have you tried disconnecting the idle valve and re setting the tickover to 700rpm as explained in the manual then re connecting the idle valve. The adjusting screw is nearby the battery on the side of the plenum - short screwdriver needed? Sorry if you've already tried that

If that is the clutch slipping and it certainly sounds like it - dont make it do it if you can help it because it will only wear out even faster and might score the flywheel. You prolly need to budget quickly for a new one and forget wheelspin starts for the time being. Not connected to the idle issue tho

Fuel tank runs with a slight vacuum pulled on it when engine running - maybe the fuel filler cap wasnt on tight enough or maybe you've a leak on the filler neck. Would explain rear nearside for the noise and it starting again when you rock the fuel - prolly nothing to worry about

Its the big temp sensor. Also if you hit econ then you wont chill out - it cuts off the aircon compressor so there would be no chillin or dryin of air on wet days. saves a bit of fuel tho and if you dont need chillin why chill. The system still tries to maintain a steady set temp using outside air. auto has it all on - you'll hear the rpm immediately pick up on idle so it can drive the compressor. You dont need to add any relays It is recommended that at least once a week the aircon is used as it runs the compressor and circulates the lubricant mixed with the refridgerant - helps prevent compressor seizing. Zed is clever so that when you floor it and need all hands to the wheel so to speak the aircon compressor cuts out while your foot is on the floor. On warm days with it on you will see puddles of water under the car while the condensed water drips out from the chiller.

The zed system can go to much more than 300psi. I think the blow off valve is at 550. I think you can make the engine fan go on by unplugging the temp sensor. You should check the aircon manual - its like war and peace. The zed system looks at speed of the car and water temperature to decide on whether it needs to also use the leccy fan. It wont use it unless it has too. The engine driven one already moves plenty air. And may already keep the water temp too low to engage it unless its 30C outside. The scenarios are in the manual In fact it says for NA with aircon on - speed below 24mph and water temp below 94 fan is off. water above 95 fan is on. speed above 25mph water below 104 fan is off. Water above 105 fan is on. With aircon off and water temp below 104 fan is off. above 105 fan is on. Turbos have 2 speed leccy fan and more conditions for fans So sayeth the words of the manual EF & EC31 eecs

Bought my daughter a Kodak 4530, 5 megapixel about 220 from jessops. Brill little camera with movie mode and sound.--Very high quality piccys, decent lenses. With a lot of the cheaper ones you dont get a good optical zoom lens. All the cheap ones do is zoom in on the pixel map for zooming in