WillieO

Stock front are round Hitachi 6" dia on my UK car anyway and 41mm deep. I think the Bose pods fit in the same mounts if thats what yours has. Still have the Hitachi ones on the floor in my study and the box for the new ones! I changed them for a drop in unit same diameter but 71mm deep from the mounting flange to the back of the magnets. This was the deepest you could go without jamming the window when its down. The new speakers had titanium midrange and tweeter - apparently yanks call em whizzers! Magnet was a 20 oz thing. Took some piccys of the door inards and old and new speakers that I can put up if interested.

Just looked at my other car and its Ziex ZE512 Falkens and they are smooth running, quieter than many I've had on that car and are also exceptionally well balanced but that might have been a decent fitter. Fraid I dont know about the ZE502

Got the 451s at 18" on the zed and they're fine at £100 - 120 ea and ZE something at 215/45 17 on my other car and they are quite good in the wet and quiet as well. Once the tread is gone nothing is good in the wet! There's always something better out there and more expenseve but the Falkens are an OK compromise and made in Japan. What size do you get for £57? because even the 215/45s 17s cost more than £60 each and they were discounted and a common size these days. Also look at the wear rating on the side. The ones on my zed are 260 I think and the other ones 360. The higher the number the harder the compound the longer in theory they last.

Presume you meant than the other 9? You have a long flash followed by the 10 judgement flashes. The long flash signals the start of the sequence. Trust you checked the fluid level properly? Otherwise I would go with what andyduff says as an import could have a km/mph converter fitted.

1) yes as per manual but I would only use it for a wheel change if I had to. For working its much faster and prolly safer to use a trolley jack and axle stands. 2) ask them not to simply use a trolley jack on the sill seams as they will flatten them. Instead use the trolley jack underneath on the main chassis beams. Anyone with sense will know where to do it. At the rear the trolley jack can go under the diff.

8 degrees is impossible without something serious wrong. The wheel would look like its falling off. You need to check for worn top link bushes or bottom ball joint. You would feel the play when its jacked up on the top link bushes. New NISMO bushes cost about £160 for a full set of 8 from Middlehurst. Plus a 4 wheel alignment done with worn bushes present would be useless. You can crudely decide how much sag your springs have by seeing how many fingers each side between the top of the tyre and the wheel arch. On mine there is an inch or more clearance to the wheel arch top so 2 or 3 fingers worth. New top link bushes fitted recently and new tyres wearing fine so far. Lowered or well sagged springs might leave the top of the tyre level with the wheel arch top.

prolly mostly to do with the auto ecu asking the engine ecu to retard the ignition timing a tad while it swaps cogs to give a smoother gearchange. The chip intended for the manwell wont need this function.

I put 7X5 Kenwoods in the back with only some screw holes re drilled and replaced the fronts with same 6" diameter but much more massive speakers - I mean the magnet just touches the dropped window. So you cannot fit bigger in the same mount place. Sounds good and you can feel the bass. Took out the rear amp as it wasnt being used anymore.

This is nothing to do with the TPS. Been through it too. Its the classic expiring zed auto box symptoms. Mine also had occassional vibrations in top gear the month or two before it went and the lock up on OD top stopped working. I think when whatever it is that goes wrong breaks up inside the box the bits clog the oil filter of the transmission and starve the pressure. Mines did it going slow at 30 mph. Same symtoms turn it off and leave it a mo and drive comes back. Fraid your prolly facing a re build or 2nd hand box. Especially if the box oil is now smelly and leave a brown stain on the rag.

respect!

Disconnect them at the connectors and check for corrosion - green stuff - in the connectors. Clean then re run the diagnostic on the O2 sensors - you can verify each side. I nearly bought a new O2 sensor then when I saw the price I rechecked and found a poor connection on the NS one. The connector is at the back of the plenum on that side. has 3 wires - red, black and white wire going into it. Mines had the OS changed sometime as it looks much newer than the NS

Yes. UK ones may have dim dip where the headlights come on dimmed with sidelights selected. Sidelights come on too.

Could be upper link bushes. You'd feel the play with the wheel off the ground jacked up. Tyres tend to wear at the shoulders also. Cure is either new top links or you can buy NISMO replacement bushes only thru Middlehurst Motors. Skylines use the same ones. Set of bushes is around £160 - 2 inners and 2 outers each side. Takes a couple of hours to do with the right tools. Yet other poss is if the tension rod bushes have been changed for poly ones. Sometimes the bolt and nut dont get tightened enough and you get a clonk or creak when braking when going backwards then forwards.

What you getting? mate at St Helens is having some monster US iron and the RHD conversion because it still gets inside the company car rules for a pick up truck with the big cab. Is it the big Dodge? 5.7 L V8 Just realised the pun - big tax dodge - until our wonderful chancellor closes the loophole in a couple of years.

Mines on 137k on original tubs and straight through cat back twin 3.5" dia pipes to Apexi rear cans - last 30k and so far so good. boost no more than about 10.5psi max with intake kit so otherwise stock

Bloke drove a Smart 3000miles accross the states on £80 of petrol. Smart or what? A Zed hardly goes 400 miles from London to Glasgow on £80 of petrol but makes such a contribution to the country's tax receipts that we should pat ourselves on the back for our contribution to keeping such a just society.:)

Or you just insert a paperclip up the side of the connector wire till you get volts. Worked for me

Torque converters are supposed to be pretty tough. Is it not worth checking the filter in the box sump for debris or silt from the friction materials? I heard that the fine muck could block up the filter leading to oil pressure falling away. Soon as you leave it a while some falls away only to get sucked up again once you restart. However the whining noise would be a worry. That was same as mine when my box expired plus burnt oil. Also when you re fitted did you check that the oil cooler lines were clear? Otherwise debris can come from there or the flow can be blocked leading to over heated oil.

Mind there's 2 connectors and the one that you want is the dangling underneath one not the one plugged into it!!! You shouldnt need to reset this. Mines got 137k on the clock and the same bit of white paint in the tps calibration screw that it came out of the factory with. Any tickover problems are prolly from somewhere else. Try this last. I checked a meter on mine and the volts were dead on and smoothly increased as the throttle was opened. The tps also affects auto change points so if it aint broke then dont fix it. I'd bet contact corrosion in connector wires for yours. You should try waggling the connector under the tps when its ticking over fast to see if theres an effect and also look out for hiss from any of the small vac pipes especially near the battery. You might have an air leak. The connector under was making bad contact on mine and the tickover would settle if it was waggled. Gently took it apart - brittle - cleaned the green stuff off the pins and socket parts and no more probs.

The UK ones I bought were just over £100 each with some discounts from Nissan. They are Tokico and have the hollow piston rod for the normal / hard actuators. The other option is the stock import spec ones that go for less than £40 each and disconnect your actuators. The import spec ones are non adjustable. There are also various after market types as well.

Or the relay is pulled out -check the fuse box on the inner wing

Chilean zedsite

burst heater matrix I'm afraid. Search and you'll get the picture on how bad it is.

Try measuring the voltage as you open and close the throttle. Between middle and the right wire the volts rises between middle and the wrong one it starts high and falls. Try the other wire. The meter should show a nice smooth voltage rise from the 0.4 ish volts level.

Its either TT calipers or back to 3G for NA type thinner discs I think.