WillieO

I had my UK series 2 92 TT autobox finally expire at 137k. I replaced it with a re built box from a 90/91 TT import. No problems even kept the same UK auto ecu. Drives absolutely perfectly. Only difference is the replacement box has no drain plug on the sump whereas the original did.

Cant see why you cant re connect and try the diagnostic to verify that they work. It might run even better then. Has it passed emissions on an MOT yet?

So why is the bypass a good idea in this climate. Does the water cool the plenum or heat it up for better cold running? Mines always seems to be roasting.

Thanks for all the assistance. How do you change these hoses without hands like ET?

I know that Colin Dick - dick300 has done it - try a pm to him

I think I'm in the same boat here - mine did it on Thursday. Maybe its a time related hose rot thing and theres going to be a spate of it now!

On my way back from the Emerald Isle and while parked after a motorway cruise I had steam appear from the back of bonnet edge. I thought it was on fire. Must have been dripping onto the exhausts. I released the radiator cap in a panic and it wasnt boiling up. I topped it up and got several hundred miles home OK. Cant see where the water came from. There must be a hose back there that has a small crack or pinhole that opens up when it gets the heat soak pressure after parking hot. Had visions of it coming back on a AA relay truck and a ferry ride as well. Any advice welcomed

You wont maximise airflow by opening the intakes up. You may even make it far worse. The air can only pass through the IC at an optimum rate which is always based on far less intake area than the IC cross section or even free air space. An E type Jag's small oval intake is an example of a well designed intake to a big radiator. Once you go above the optimum intake size the air goes all turbulent once inside and doesnt flow through the fins properly.

Still could be the squealer metal tag that is set to touch the discs when the pads are almost worn out.

Is that to the left of the existing one? Is the casting nice and thick or do you have to build it up or anything?

Best value for money turbo timer is common sense, meaning if you've been ragging it you let it tickover a minute or two before switching it off. If you havent then you dont need to. I think the zed has enough stuff to go wring without adding yet another pointless gizmo. Anyway save the cash for something it will need - and it will need something soon. 138k miles original turbos no turbo timer - if it aint broke dont fix it! imho

:shock: Warning, warning - there is a flyover on the M74 near there where the Dumfries police go when they're bored. They can get you at a half mile range on a wide open, incredibly safe stretch of motorway where you might be inclined to go a bit quick. Dont ask me how I know. I was only calibrating my speedo at the time with a friends gps gizmo:) Unfortunately its no defence. :shock: :nono:

Only thing is the guy in the link is changing out whats in the sump of the transmission. There is another 3 or 4 litres in the torque converter that you cant get out through the sump. "Changing" the oil this way really means draining out a bit more than half and adding clean to dirty. At least its better than 100% dirty of course. So if you are fitting a new box and a new converter you had better buy 2 - 5 litre packs of fluid. You would find that Halfords sells in 5 litre packs but at double the price a decent car parts distributor charges.

I should be there on Sunday. Anyone else?

or top link bushes - but they tend to cause wear on both shoulders

Find the connector to the sensor - prolly the same type of 3 wire type as for a zed - red wire black wire white wire. When mine was acting up and the diagnostic pointed to a duff sensor I found it was just green oxide in the connector giving a bad connection. A good clean up / scrape out and it was fine - saved £100+ per sensor.

You can work it out from the rev counter. 5th gear in an manual tt is 25.6mph per thousand rpm. so 4000 is just over the point where you loose your license for a while!

Meanwhile here in a "free" country we are creating a talibanisation of our own with the critical issue of fox hunting. Yup divert the attention of the idiots who vote. Most people dont like it including me but it is sheer hypocracy to ban something because most people dont like someone elses way of life. Most people like a burger or a bacon buttie and wear leather shoes (or like the leather in their zed) but dont like the idea that the animal gets a bolt through its brain but are we gonna ban that? Well if certain religions get their way the bacon buttie certainly is history. Nah lets sort them out properly or give em free satellite dishes and beam in baywatch 24 hours. They'll soon all be blind.

Is that not a dance where you wiggle your ar5e while walking as if you'd really prefer to give it a good scratch but people might see you :)

The red lever which can be checked from a photograph is for opening a parachute http://www.junauto.co.jp/democar/jb-z32/explain.html?en I know most have seen this before but its worth a second look. Just so you can see what a properly equipped zed is like! Many meter is located in panel:)

Think I'd be looking at the boost guage piping to the sensor first. The needle should lean to the left at tickover and even normal steady speed driving. It should only be in the right side under positive boost when you are accelerating hard. You might have a pipe off and the vacuum leak is causing your flat spots. Look out for hissing sounds with the bonnet up to find the air leak. I think if you had a siezed turbo you would get no positive boost but the negative boost situation would still be there when the engine is pulling vacuum at tickover.

Er I changed them a pair at a time:) Rears go first for obvious reasons. One set of rears went in 3k once but that was because the previous owner had the HICAS arms changed and never got the rear toe in re set. I found it had 8mm toe in. It also handled really bad in the wet then. Now its well sorted

Neil Think it was about 15k front and maybe 10k rear

When they are hot and covered in dried up salt in winter they really do dazzle oncoming drivers. At least then headlight washers can give em a rinse.

Those sizes in Falkens were £110 front and £125 rear fitted and balanced. On me second set now.