WillieO

the series 2 loses the outside ambient temp off the display - mine is 1/8/92 and series 2

I had this too but instead of messing with the insulation which gets marked or the bonnet itself I think it was better to get to top of the offending edges of the mounts ground away. OK so you need to re paint but better that than have these edges wear thru the bonner Then the bonnet closes properly with no strained gaps.

UK Europe stock ones have some 20% more cooling than the Japan home market ones - supposedly to allow high speed autobahn running. A good second hand one or a recore with good ends should be plenty good.

It most prolly leaks in from the top as well. Might be worth putting in a piece of plastic to drip the water away from the filter as heavy rain will do the same thing. Next time take off the centre nose panel just after you wash it and you'll see how much the filter gets wet.

bet you need your thermals up ther in this weather:)

35 quid on your insurance

When you knock the old ones out it is obvious which ones go where. There is two pairs of inners and two pairs of outers. Its not hard to do either. Did it on a Saturday morning on my UK zed. The St Helens guys told me they do loads of Skylines with these same bushes. There is a note on them that says for motorsport use only - dont know what that is about unless maybe they are harsher than stock ones but mine goes fine, no rattles and a nice tight front end.

woops didnt read it properly - agree with greg the tps now needs set up properly

More likely its green oxide in the connectors. Take em apart carefully and scrape the green gunge off the pins with a very small screwdriver - I would not advise tampering with the tps setting. Mines has done this many times. 138k from new with the white paint blob on the tps showing it has never been adjusted since new. Most unstable running issues with zeds are connector problems or cracked hoses causing air leaks and making the idle unstable that way. Wiggle wires when its running unstable Connector dangling under tps first then have a wiggle of wires at the very back of the plenum nearside. The idle air valve is there and if the connector is not sound there it can even not idle at all.

I hope its not a version of the scam where they overpay and say the vehicle will be picked up. You think you have the money but 2 weeks later its shows as fraud and your bank takes it all back. Meanwhile you are down car and whatever so called rebate you paid out. I'd want to see the whites of their eyes if I was you!

If you are lowered you need to use a shim kit behind each of the top link mounts on the body. Depending on how many shims you should be able to get rid of excess neg camber. If you are flush you can buy natty pink or blue anodised adjustable top links. IMHO better the shims and spend money on tyres and brakes. Check online manual for the correct settings, You need to align toe in after also

Seriously darkened windows are a bit daft in this dark and dreary country in winter. Maybe fine for LA. While you can see ahead OK the view sideways at night must be like Blunketts when he's driving. As for foglights all the plonkers who drive with them on in perfectly clear weather deserve to be fined. I've had some points for some slight motorway speed silliness too but I'd rather have our plod than the plod of any other country on the planet.

I've 18" 235 and 265 451s and they are fine and lasting well since I sorted the rear tracking and camber. The proper set up of the front and rear make much more of a difference than any make of tyres. Any wear in the HICAS or wrong toe in makes tyres disappear fast

Thanks for all the advice. I can see rust colouring on the heated area next to the welds as the iron has come to the surface and rusted but as long as that is all that happens and it doesnt start to rot deeper and then all the way through it should be fine. I am not worried about the cosmetic end.

Mike has the inners as well as the outers and its only the rear part. Does anyone know if the inners are always needed as well?

Our guys have been welding frames from 3CR12 steel that I understand is sort of low grade stainless. They use 316 wire and argon co2 gas. You see rust down the edge areas of all the welds. Is that cosmetic and superficial or will it rust through if not painted?

Cheers Ryan. So I need to get under it. Thanks for the advice. I was worried about leaning on the thick bit of wiring loom at the back of the engine. With all the stories about brittle wires I thought bending it out of the way might not be a good idea

Tell the boys how then cos I still cant see it :) Each time it happens it stops before I can see where its coming from

burnt smell = transmission stuffed

This is much more likely to be a burst plenum to turbo hose at the rear of the engine - I have it too and a few others show this recently -it has to do with the age of the hoses. There will be a tiny crack that opens up under the pressure that increases shortly after a hot run. Watch the water level till its fixed. These rear hoses are a bitch to get at unless you have arms like et

You posted just before me - so you did a consult and it found nothing - looks like boost leaks or filter. Then next check timing is correct.

around 8psi Sounds a little light. Could be in safety boost. An accurate guage should show around 0.68bars for stock and as much as 0.75 with an intake kit and modded exhaust. Maybe you have a small boost leak - check all boost pipe hose clamps. Also a well used air filter could be so choked up it limits airflow If no boost leaks or blocked filter than do the engine diagnostic test to look for system faults or a faulty detonation sensor which would also put you in safety boost.

and if the bushes really are f*cked you can get NISMO replacement bushes from Middlehurst St Helens for about £160 ish for both sides - you still have to knock out the old ones and fit the new- takes about 3 hours for a half decent amateur. Seems its the same for Skylines

some good stuff on http://www.300zx.cl/ look at the skyview pics

The Bell Direct idea was you could get your full ncb on the second car. I declared mods as well for both cars with charges for them. To chip the z was for me not worth the extra £350 or so that they wanted. I have got insured ncb on both cars and 4 years of this now on the z.