WillieO

Its too easy for those that didnt pay the taxes in the first place to say "yea right it off man". But my money went somewhere and I want it back or I want the wabenzies that stole it topped or jailed and stripped of their assets or all of the above. I dont want anyone else with their hands in my pockets without so much as a by your leave. We only just stopped working for the state as it is - wasnt tax free day late may? Same for those eurocrats that take our taxes then try to make us feel good with their ring of stars on projects (we paid for anyway) that they care to bestow on us grateful minions.

Just moved No 1 daughter to orange from voda because she was sending 950 texts a month. Orange student package gives 1000 texts a month for £30 with 300 mins. Voda comment was does she do any studying? when I asked them to match the deal! I would get mental if I tried to send 4 texts a day let alone 33.

Went through something similar with mine and it turned out to be the autobox on its last month of life. I think the misfire sensation was clutches slipping and biting again. Ultimately it lost all drive and the overdrive lock up clutch stopped working a week before total failure. If its an auto you have take a look at the clarity of the fluid and smell it. Otherwise ignore this!

Welcome. Where r u in Belgium? I visit Mechelen quite often.

From the intake side - the compressor turbine will experience vacuum on the overrun and then any oil passing the turbo shaft seals that side will be sucked into the inlet manifold -I think - then when you throttle open again it will all get burned.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=38786&item=7975788965&rd=1 zorst for swb

There was a nice one for a swb on ebay the other day. Said you had to lengthen the centre section for a lwb

It is thermostatically controlled with an electric oil pump. So it comes on at 90+ in hot weather. I found mine was leaking oil from a loose hose joint after a drive in such conditions. Until then I never knew it was there! Has it rotted?

There is a drop in replacement. No mods needed. Do a search on it

So I slipped my hand under her firm round bottom. I felt dirty. My fingers felt moist and slippery. So this is what foreplay is, I thought. "You should get out more" I heard my mum shouting from the kitchen.

Thanks lads. The part that broke is the metal stud through the glass. It broke off almost flush with the inside surface of the glass so the glass is fine. The dome head is still in the glass but I guess this will push out with a bit of care. So Jack, if you ve got one of those I'd be most appreciative. The window is just a bit wobbly now and you have to be really carefull closing it and the door.

So nobody else ever broke the guide stud on the driver window then?

made the mistake of raising the drivers door glass while the door was open and then got out to close it. The door glass had gone up too far and the glass clattered against the T top edge and promptly snapped off the stud that rides the guide rail. Now I have a floppy window. Is there a fix anyone or is it a special part from Nissan?

You might even get volts after the switch showing it going on and off when switching but the burned contacts might mean the volts collapse as soon as the motor tries to draw current and the contact heats up rapidly due to the burning. - 10/11 sounds a little on the low side. Did you try continuity with the ohms scale across the motor windings?

and his mate Ben Doonigain

still enjoying mine - campsies on saturday, tops off - near heaven:) how long now?

Prolly nothing to do with the motor. You might have to crack open the 4 way switch. very carefully - its springs and balls will fall out. What you could have is burned contacts. A bit of work with wetndry or emery to sand off the burnt surfact of the contacts will fix it. you need vaseline to get it back together with its balls on springs. Mine did the same drivers side - eventually going back but not coming up again until switch was wiggled seriously. Not easy driving with the back fully reclined :)

I'd seen that they have inner sills as well as the rear sections - does anyone know if these are always needed? Dont want to start it and find I need inners as well.

got 3 g 20 groove - 4 years and fine.

there is a drop in replacement. Got mine done 3 years ago and it still works great. R 416 or 426 or something but defo not the R134A and conversion kit. Cost was £80 and he came to my office to vacuum out the remains of the r12 and pressure test then put in the new stuff.

some models didnt have the drain plug - not sure why

check the connectors for oxide - cured mine

I'd say it was front wheel balancing. The reason it comes and goes is when the wheels are in phase and then they gradually get out of phase as you take a curve or corner and one wheel gets half a turn away from the other. You have to get them balanced by someone who knows what they are doing. Mine were like this two years with several goes at balancing and no cure till I tried another company for balancing and asked for zero balancing - no more vibes. Otherwise they settle for maybe 20 grams out of balance and a zed is sensitive to even that. This is specially true on big and wide wheels

Nothin - Had to do it on mine when the box expired at 135k. You keep the UK auto ECU and all the control wires plug in just the same places. It works exactly as the UK one. Only diff I noticed is the auto off the import doesnt have a drain plug.

got em all round, 265/35 rear and 235/40 front on 18" and they are OK for me. I think they are fine on the Z and not bad in the wet either. Now on the second set.