WillieO

sounds like its in get home mode. maybe a duff maf or connections issue

the puter prolly thinks 50 is 50kph

Have you checked the plenum to manifold bolts for tightness? I spent ages with a mate who also had a shiny plenum- powder coated and after swapping all kinds of bits with mine with no improvement we spotted the plennum was actually loose - maybe some stripped threads with it being off and on again! Sometimes the gasket would seal and all was well and other times rough idling with air being drawn in.

Could be worn out or clogged pressure sender. If you arent getting bearing rattle or knock when you start from cold then the engine is prolly fine. Oil pressure sender usually works at a very low level like 10psi and if clogged up with sludge then it cant feel any pressure.

Not recommended to split them. You can actually get a good result with good old hammerite put on thickly by brush once they are cleaned up. If you were going to powdercoat you might want to grind the Nissan bit smooth though.

clean apply 3 in 1 oil to the bearing / bush and roberts your mothers brother

Remember also that a NA is an import and insurance companies load them anyway so a UK TT prolly costs same or less to insure. As to losing traction mid corner in the wet well you need to add traction control or have the wits to lift off smartly if you do begin to lose it. You also hopefully learn not to be a pratt when its wet - hopefully, or you wont have it long. Had my TTauto about 6 years now. Had some "nipper offer twitching" moments along the way!

you can change those hoses in 20 minutes without removing the fan or rad or cowling if you have small hands that is! You have to be sure you are not going to puncture the rad tho I had them on and off a few times as I kept botching up the top hose connector flange to plenum water jacket or whatever connection - it needs instant gasket You also need the long nose pliers for the inner hose clips if its the big ear type - the hoses can stick fast if they are well old. I changed the others to normal jubilee type as they were easier to fit

As well as washers there's also some rule that HIDs must be fitted with an active self leveling system for new cars fitted with them in UK. I dont think any HID kits have that. So while a zed is a pretty hard sprung car and unlikely to be troubled by ever being overloaded and need self leveling stuff the rules will be such that its technically illegal even if never discovered by a MOT. There is also the issue that you should tell an insurer that its fitted as it is a modification. Otherwise they are perfectly entitled to renege on a claim if they discover it.

Can you tell me the location of the sensors Willie? The O2 sensors themselves are in the erxhausts right after the turbos on the downpipes. They have a length of cable up to the connectors. The connectors are white plastic with 3 wires in and out. These wires are red white and black iirc. The nearside connector is towards the rear top plenum battery side. The offside one is down the side of the plenum about midway I think. Once you spot the battery side one you can find the other side one easily. You can carefully disconnect them and check the connections inside. All connections on these cars are brittle with heat and age and maybe some green oxide on the actual connections.

UK series 2 cars have a little oil cooler in front of the engine oil cooler to cool the power steering/HICAS fluid - explains the piping. Maybe earlier just has a long u bend tube as a hydraulic fluid cooler

You sure the auto box needed topping up? These dipsticks are hard to read with hot clean new fluid. But I think it needs to be read hot with the engine running. I feel sure the stalling I have when cold stopping is caused by torque converter drag or clutch drag rather than an electrical or fuel issue. I am also sure that the fluid in mine is too high but maybe this is not connected with the stalling when cold. I just keep knocking it to neutral when I pull up when its cold. As for your o2 sensors check each connector for green oxide. One of mine wasnt reading but after cleaning the pins on the connector on the NHS battery side one it came back to life. Even when it wasnt right it didnt cause rough idling, I had what seemed like a misfire or judder under load that turned out to be connected to the old box being about to die.

Watch the box is not overfilled! I also had mine replaced and the engine will stall when you came to a stop when its cold unless you popped it in neutral. This problem disappears when its warm so I dont bother about it but I can see on the dipstick that the oil is overfilled. Also if i drive enthusiastically as it were the auto dipstick pops up. Maybe I should siphon out the excess! Other possibilities might be air leaks in the small vacuum hoses about the engine - maybe one was nipped or cracked when the engine was tilted back to drop the box.

Fully comp both cars and business use also - Bell Direct lets you have full ncb on the second car also where a lot of other insurers want to start the ncb clock again

possible wear in a HICAS arm inner or outer arms that moves further as more power is going on. If you are having to steer to the right to stay straight it suggests that the wear is most on the LHS rear HICAS arm outer or inner link. If this is true you will prolly find the inside edges of your rear tyres also disappearing with too much toe in under power and the usual excess rear negative camber these cars have once the rear bushes sag a bit.

And when its really pouring down and you get in the car soaked then start it and hit the demist button and miraculously all the windows demist in seconds its brill. Just try that without aircon! You have to be nuts to go without a good working aircon system just on the imaginary benefits of a little less weight on what will still be a lard ass car even without it.

or a good condition UK one - its got 30% more cooling in it than the import one apparently.

Top radiator hose connection will be hot and hard with pressure after the engine warms up. It will heat up suddenly as the thermostat opens. The rad can still feel quite cold but that is simply due to the thermostat only allowing just enough flow to maintain engine temp in this cold weather. The heater should also be heating. If you had no flow the engine would simply overheat very quickly. Even a stuffed leaking water pump tends to pump fine. Usually it leaks due to its seal and bearing / bush being ruined. The pulley might have movement in it indicating worn bearing / bush. Apparent leaking water pump on a zed is often the 2 short head feed water hoses directly above the pump - when they go they make it look like the water pump is leaking when it isnt.

I dont think the box is any different whether JDM or UK. Its just the controls that operate different. I put a JDM box in my UK TT and it works exactly as my UK TT old box worked. I think its the same if you put a box from a UK car into a JDM. The auto ecu and controls might be different but the box just does what its told.

You have to start it and run it - check the sump is at the right level first. If it is a cracked turbo feed hose you will see it right away with the high cold oil pressure. As long as you have some oil pressure the bearings should be fine - obviously dont run it for long if the pressure is falling fast and oil is spraying and dont keep it running if there is no pressure. If it was oil getting chucked out the dipstick tube then it will simply run fine.

Turbo oil feed pipe could also be a suspect - would explain the loss on pressure

The only really dangerous bit is the flying mile with 2 cameras about a mile apart, just north of the Prestwick roundabout on the dual! I would bet thats where they caught the 36 plonckers during the first three months operation. On all the other long stretches there are so many roundabouts and hold ups you could hardly ever even do an average 60 on the single carriageway or 70 on the dual. If you could keep a tally on your average speed you could still get up to mischief on the longer bits. What is really irritating is peeps rigidly stuck in the outside lane at 65mph believing their speed is 70 and being damned if you can pass them. Also the ploncks that jump on the brakes as they go under specs cameras, prolly got the foglights on as well. Thanks to gps you can see your real speed. When its busy and there are big trucks I tuck up close behind for a mo so the Specs cant see your number! Also it isnt fair that bikes get away with it. If the twats that designed it just pointed the cameras the other way the bikes would be nailed as well. Maybe said twat was a biker and not so twat after all!

You might have a jammed open or duff thermostat. Start the car from cold and the top rad hose should stay cold for a good while and suddenly heat up when the stat opens. The top hose should get hard as pressure rises. If it slowly gets warm from the start then the stat is open, broken or missing. Also check the guage by taking off the connector from the small guage sensor on the top hose connection. The big one is for the ecu connection. Stock oil pressure guage senders are unreliable. Changing oil and filter is the same as for any car, nothing special. Z TT sump only takes about 4 litres. Buy a copper sump plug washer from Nissan. The Nissan filter is cheap as well.

Only a gain on a very peaky engine. Waste of time any other time and on a TT with a wide torque band. Every gear change costs about 0.2 seconds lost acceleration otherwise.

Dropping the compression ratio so that more air fuel mix can be pressured in before reaching det points can give more power but at the expense of crap running at low throttle openings. Saab has a novel design with a variable compression ratio to get you the best of both worlds, high CR at low throttle and low CR at high throttle. This design has the cylinder block and head on a kind of hinge from the crank case meaning the big end bearing centre to top of the cylinder bore dimension can change thus changing CR Then you can have good mpg and power Saab variable CR engine