WillieO

Those of us that have had zeds a while would also remember that the hatch latch is notorious for drying up and causing creaks. Open it, apply vaselene or grease to the pin part in the body and low and behold no more creaks! And yes also the tension rods if the through bolt is not tight enough but that noise comes from outside!

Is it with an auto transmission? Mine had what I thought was a mystery misfire under hard acceleration in the weeks prior to the box failing. Could be wrong but my feeling was that it was the clutch plates slipping and gripping that gave the sensation of a misfire. Big power upgrades do tend to bring these auto boxes to an earlier demise.

Could be wrong about the part number - thats whats on the box I have but when googled their site says they are Subaru unless they are the same pistons? Maybe they just used that box! http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts_info.asp?id=1185

Hi Ossian I got some from Import Car Parts on Ebay - They are pattern parts - piston is BCP4025 Budweg - Still to change my pitted ones.

Are you sure the pin through the glass has not broken? It runs in a rail. Mine did and it was hard to find another one but not too difficult to fit once the whole door was stripped back

My 1st Aug 92 UK is

I had a straight swap from J spec to UK spec TT with no issues and all the same connectors so the converse should also be true, I think! The different ECUs cover the different controls such as sport hold and whatever

plus Europe & UK TT rears have actuators on them to turn from soft to hard

.. and a good free flow unchoked intake kit allows denser air in to start with so it all helps! There was a chart by Stillen that showed 10.5psi with the only mods being intake kit and exhaust so I thought that the better breathing out and in was where the tiny bit of extra boost pressure was coming from. My stock guage shows these kind of levels with those same mods. Like to believe it's true but as people say the stock guage is not so accurate nor are many of the after market ones.

no my original ecu from UK worked perfect with JDM box. Just plug n play same connectors

Sounds like u might! The box is interchangeable I used a JDM spec my UK and it feels no different to before - except it all works! Different ECUs

Definitely stuck open dud thermostat. Your fuel consumption will also be through the roof and performance stuck on safety boost. Hope you havent just bought it! Some wags would remove the thermostat to stop it throwing out its water with a duff cylinder head gasket.

break in the wiring core nearby to the connector? I have a intermittent on rear driver side cylindr. Wiggle the wires just near the balance bar while the engine is running and the 6th springs to life. Cant find the problem but most of the time it stays all on song

Put it in front. The UK version has a cooler for the HICAS and PAS system

I think you will find DOT 4 and 5 supercede DOT 3. Each seems to have a higher temperature rating.

Other give away of a seized turbo is that if you drive it as hard as it will go for a few moments then stop it and open the bonnet you will smell the heat and maybe see some smoke from the exhaust manifold at the rear of the engine on the side thats seized. It gets seriously overheated due to the restriction on the exhaust with the turbo not spinning.

Toe under the clutch pedal to make sure the pedal is not slightly depressed or sagging- that's the problem with my other car's cruise control. Also do the same with the brake pedal.

There's two tubes and I bet they have linked the boost gauge one to the "other" one. Mine had a similar issue after the engine had been out to change turbos. It was also ticking over really rough but pulled fine. I remember they had colour marked the ends of the tubes to make sure they matched up again but they must have switched them at the plenum ends. I pulled them off one at a time while running to see the engine reaction and feel the end for vacuum on each. One definitely had real suction whereas the other not so much. I then switched those two at the back LHS corner around - the boost guage immediately came to life and the tickover settled down to a proper ultra smooth tickover it always had. The other might have been for the EGR. There's a T piece too. Have you a piccy of the connections or can you try switching them?

check the connector - they get green oxide disease - common on zeds - give them a good scrape and run the diagnostic if the consult is not handy - it will show if they are both operating. I thought I had a dead one till I checked the connectors.

And handbrake shoes almost cant wear out as they only get used on a stopped car normally. They prolly just need to be adjusted.

If you get steam from the battery side then the passenger side turbo coolant feed hose is a typical for this as well. It is a real battle to change, You really need small hands and long arms to do it from underneath

check the 2 short hoses above the water pump first. They go every 2 or 3 years! The water then pisses down the water pump and any garage you go to will tell you it is the water pump when it isnt.

You can crack the control joystickopen and clean the contacts up and it'll be good as new. On mine the tilt would go back but you had to wiggle the joystick to make it go back up again(choosing words carefully here) You have to be careful about the little springs and ball bearing bits but its do able.

I thought the reason for the sponge is as an insulator on the hoses to help limit heat transfer to the air intake as you are trying to keep the intake charge as cool as possible. Thinking remove it and the engine cools better is not that clever in that case! It just would mean more heat gets to the intake air that you are trying to keep chilled!