WillieO

You might have a leak somewhere. You should keep a close eye on it in case the leak only begins when it is hot and under pressure. Such leaks are typical of small cracks in rubber hoses. They hold up till a certain pressure then let go. You can never see them with a cold engine. Nor does leaving it on tickover often let it get hot enough to fully pressurise. Feeling for a hard top hose when its hot can prove this. If the top hose is still soft after a drive then the cooling system pressure is bleeding away. Also check the radiator cap as a bad seal there can also cause this and reduce the boiling point.

http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=lc&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=11&design=default&total=15 As well as sealant can be the hose clips on the 2 short hoses. If they are the spring ear type you need to use long nose pliers to compress them and push them off the clamping part

The transmission losses are rpm related and like others said not linear. They rise rapidly with rpm rotational inertia etc so an engine that makes its power at lower rpm would see less transmission losses on the RR than a car with the same transmission but peak power coming 2000rpm higher. I was amazed at the transmission losses of some 4 wheel drive cars like Evo's and Subarus. Im sure some big power ones were measuring 100bhp of transmission losses according to the RR on the deceleration measuring phase.

Does sound like the centre support bearing. When the rubber bellows support hardens and cracks up instead of holding the shaft centrally it lets it rest on the bones of ar5e in a manner of speaking. This means the shaft is out of alignment giving vibrations and since there is no insulation support the sound vibrations transmit into the car body. If you can get under it you can check this by carefully jacking up the propshaft next to the centre support mount. You can even temporarily pad the support bearing with some rubber sheets - maybe 2 about 5 mm thick each. With a light you can see if the original rubber bellows is u/s. If this is not the case you could have propshaft universal joints that are partially seized or a diff with no oil in it that is beginning to whine due to wear. This would not be so good.

It will be the two top short hoses that go from the housing to the two cylinder heads. These hoses pop every few years. I had trouble with them and could take the housing off in a few minutes without removing the viscous fan in the end. The problem I ended up with was then not getting the flange sealed properly with instant blue gasket stuff. Maybe you have gasket goo bonding yours on tight. Make sure you found all the bolts though! Use a mirror if necessary and replace both those short hoses when its off. Check the online workshop manual to be sure you took out all the allen bolts. When one of these hoses goes it drips onto the water pump and often makes it look like the pump has failed when it has not.

Think it is 60,000km giving about 37000 miles and filthy.

You can use it like a launch control system that you set to the best engine revs for the fastest possible start without too much wasteful wheelspin. If you make it hold the engine revs too long at a whatever set point you have put it at you will get unburnt fuel going into the cats and the engine cat overheat light will come on - you might even cook the cats. If you have no cats and the exhausts are well hot you might also get pops and flame shooting out your exhausts. Some like this effect!

Check the connectors near the sensors. Mine did the same. Gave the connecor a good scrape of the green oxide and it came back on again.

re 30% bigger surface area on UK / Euro water radiator Read it on the Stillen website a while back. Claim was the radiator looks the same but the UK Euro one has a more dense core with more cooling surface area for continuous high speed autobahn use - or so the waffle said. I havent checked myself! Same claim is the reason the diff oil cooler is fitted. JDM cars were limited to 112mph so would never need the extra cooling. Guess you could try going at 155mph for an hour on the continent and see if the diff does overheat and start whining without it. Who really cares? Maybe for regularly tracked cars it might be helpful.

diff oil cooler and pump controlled from ecu to bring it on at high speed and temp. 2 stage rear shocks controlled from ECU. Handbrake light on trick to prove they work 30% bigger surface area on UK / Euro radiator.

I'd also like to get some blinds or shades for the targa roof as it was blinding with the sun out through the roof! It should have these but you can get them easily. ? I was also told that I have a stage two chip installed - the guy gave me a stage 3 which he was given with the car - what are the thoughts on swapping this over, or is it likely to be static damaged being handled with no anti-static bag? Easy to change Tell your insurer!! They'll want more dosh from you. What boost is it running? Lastly is the passenger door not locking with the remote etc - is this a common fault? Probably just lack of use. Use the key in the lock and some lub spray in the lock. Mine did this as well. I find I have to check from time to time that it is locking. Alarm still works as you hear it well when the door opens after you thought it was locked.

Rich Sorry I remembered that it was quite complicated and you needed the manual in front of you. Mine used combinations of presses of the momentary side and latched side of the valet flip switch if that is what its called. You had to get it into valet mode then mess around with the settings and listen for beeps. Check the pdf file manual for the system you have fitted. Mine is ancient being the concept 50X I think. Mine also now has dead rechargeable batterys so has stopped chirping but still flashes the indicators on arm and disarm. Must fix that too!

i press the pedal i hear a squeeking noise is this supposed to happen They all do that. Also a leaking servo will also make the tickover bad as the fuel air mix will be too weak.

http://www.clifford.co.uk/Support/Guides.aspx Have you looked there? You need the model number

Depending on the model these alarms can be in several parts. My Clifford is part in the boot next to the spare wheel and another part behind the side trim panel on the back seat passenger side. Have you gone into the settings for it via the menu access? I remember mine had some dumb settings like lock the doors after 3 minutes with the keys left in the ignition. Really useful for locking yourself out. Also the sensitivity of the perimiter monitoring was too high with anybody walking past setting it off. I have the original fitters notes but they were printed on fax paper and are almost white now! Really helpful I know. It doesnt help find problems when they use black wiring with no colour codes! Other places they wired into are under the dashboard rhs. The immobiliser works on both the ignition and fule pump circuits I think. Maybe just leave it perminantly in valet mode until you figure it out. Ditch the interior light part and you would still have the ultrasonic motion sensing part that still detects entry. Mine detects a hand reaching in from open T tops. You can find the manuals on the Clifford website.

the door light does not go out when the doors shut Sorry if this is stating the obvious but the interior light switch has 3 positions - I think on my UK car. One is on all the time one is off all the time and one is on and off with the door operating it. Has it maybe been put in the "on" all the time position?

the revs did not rise though as i thought they should. There is a distinct change in revs with this connected. I also have erratic idling from time to time on mine with too high tickover but a wiggle of the connector and wiring under the tps always sorts it and it settles back down to an even steady smooth idle. Hardly scientific but it always worked till now.

It should be near Rolls in quality! Well smooth and slow anyway. Clean the idle valve and reset the tickover afterwards following the manual instructions and doing it like it says with the ecu connector off it then re connecting it. It makes a huge difference to the idling and this valve can be well clogged at this age. Gizmo at the back of the passenger side plenum!

Would agree - if this is the compressor side to the IC then its your problem. All boost escapes here from both turbos. If you are already at the turbo end of the hose can you not get a feel for the turbine blades to see if they are freely turning? If so you might be on an easy repair. When they seize they tend to go solid. If its still spinning its probably OK.

Also if you get rid of the battery container tray which is insulated you risk cooking the battery with the heat from the turbo.

Could be a water hose with a tiny crack in it, When a hot engine is cooling the water pressure can actually rise slightly just after switchoff due to heat soak and no more circuiation. This pressure rise can be enough to make the leak drip but stop again as the pressure falls down. Re the slight loss of boost pressure - you havent been driving in a lot of heavy rain? Tou could have a soggy air filter restrictiong air flow!

It's easier with a mini skirt

viscous fan is only mechanical / temperature operated, not by any electrical ecu signal. Other possible cause of unusual noise is cracked blades.

Quote by Jimmer If it just has mild scoring then you can clean up the journals with some 180 grit emery cloth kept wet with wd40.Keep going till the scoring cleans up.As a final test run a 2p coin over the journal,if it leaves copper behind then the journal needs further sanding or is maybe to far gone.Any mild marks will come out using the emery. Unquote Good stuff there Just make sure its an old old copper 2p as later ones are steel and might cause scratches.

The last thing needed is a wet filter. Vents on the nose panel have cosmetic effect and could even mess up the internal airflow.