WillieO

You should drive it. You may find that it stops after an hour or two's driving. It can be air in the hydraulic cam followers. It eventually bleeds out. Mine does this if not used for several months. The grade of oil is correct.

I thought that you didnt need the converter any more with the UK spec clocks? Doesnt the converter just do the math with the pulses to make kms on a km clock read the same number as mph? It must also upset the speed sensitive power steering because the ecu thinks you are now going 10/16ths or about 40% slower than you really are are going and therefore makes the assistance stronger than it needs to be at speeds above walking pace. Probably also changes the way the HICAS operates because the speeds read to that ECU are now incorrect! When the add on converter goes loopy you get all these failt symptoms - heavy steering, no reading etc

What you are seeing is classic for the Nissan sender when it has a bit of wear in the carbon track. You either just get used to the fact that it is a bit variable and under reading when the oil is hot or you change it for a new Nissan one or add an aftermarket one as a back up. If you do a search you'll find its debated to death.

I bow to your greater experience here J1mmytt! Think I must have missed the bit where you said you were using special track tyres rather than normal road ones! Or the fact that you have 2.5 degrees of negative camber on the front. That must be fun on the public road! My point was based on the assumption you were using road tyres in a track day application on a "normal" car. Even the Toyo thing you quote gives a range of 27 - 35psi cold for a very heavy car which lets face it the 300zx is. You setting at 24 is even below that range but I see that you didnt start with that but reduced it to that when they were hot after starting with 35psi cold. I guess that on cool down they would have then been well soft. Toyo seems to be saying 37 - 40 psi hot is the right range I still disagree with: " the less pressure the less the surface tyre patch heats up vise versus. " I think its the other way round. Anyway your points are interesting and your car looks great at full tilt!

Alarm systems can cause a bit of drain too. Maybe also alarm back up nicads that are past their best and draining main battery charge to help keep them charged.

J1mmytt - Re your first post I did read it. I just don't entirely agree with it. Especially... On the track i had to set my pressure at 24psi which then when hot shot up to about 32psi. I am not suprised they got so hot and the pressure then rose up. 24psi is a very low pressure for a low profile sports car tyre to start with. If you had set them to 32psi or more to start with they would have worked more like they are supposed to and the pressure increase would have been more limited since the sidewall flex would have been more normal. I think your car would have handled much better also. Of course you want some heat in the tread but not an overheated sidewall that is folding over on the bends and tearing off the tyre shoulder to create the heat. I know that nitrogen doesnt expand as much as air when hot so you dont have such big pressure variations with it and I also understand that maybe in hot places where track temperatures get really high you will need to then drop the pressure during time on track if pressures get towards the fifties but it should never be into the twenties even to start with. I admit to never having tracked mine so what do I know but I am sure there's others here that have and they will tell you that low pressures to start with on a track are just not right. Of course you need to let them down a bit to normal levels for normal road driving afterwards.

Just open the filler cap and look inside while its idling - You should see plenty of oil flooding over the cam lobes.

Its a separate drum. Make sure the cables are properly slack before adjusting the shoes. There is a rubber bung in each drum to get at the adjuster. Check the manual. Possibly be prepared to pull off the discs and rough up the drums with emery to remove glaze and also the shoes. Then adjust them till binding and yank on handbrake a few times to centre the shoes then back the adjuster off just enough to let them roll free. Only then check the cable adjustment and only adjust if there is a load of slack in the cable. If you tighten the cables and then the drums begin to bind you have gone too far on the cables.

Don't forget also the stock gauge sender unit is unreliable and wears in such a way that at low hot rpm it can look like you have zero oil pressure. The oil pumping system is also such that excess oil pressure is bled away by a relief valve anyway so as not to damage seals on the engine. Some people mistake high oil pressure and thick oil as a good thing when the important thing is enough oil of the right grade for the engine's needs. The oil cooler system also only sees oil going through the oil cooler when the pressure exceeds a certain point or above about 3000rpm. You can prove it to yourself by having a feel at the oil cooler through the front vent after a hard drive - with care obviously! With gentle low rpm driving hardly any oil goes through the oil cooler and it will be stone cold.

Also for going on a trackday are you not best to increase the pressures by 3 - 5 psi from the normal road settings, not lower them? I know the issue is the shape and size of the contact patch on the road but everything is a compromise. The lower the profile in general the higher the running pressure for higher speeds and loadings.

Maybe not so important yet but coming soon is energy consumption costs. Some big plasmas are like heaters burning more than 500W. New LEDs are less than 200W even for a large screen size. So the plasma could cost up to 50 quid a year more to watch so if you need to you can tell her you can justify a spend of £250 more for the LED assuming that you keep it 5 years!

Re ive run 27psi all of the time in the zed without any problems and also been on a track anything over 30psi the ride is way to harsh The reason for that is you're on lowered springs and you have less compliance in the suspension. You are way too low at 27psi and risking other problems. You will probably also get a shoulders wear pattern.

140k miles when my UK TT one finally pooped its autobox. Not that bad in terms of reliability on a turbo charged sports car. It was stock however and like others say if you chip them and up the boost and then use that for lots of fast standing quarter miles on a drag strip the box will not last long. JDM ones often need a bigger autobox cooler adding for a start if into driving hard.

34 psi front and 36 psi rear for 235/40 - 18 front and 265/35 -18 rear seems about right. Anyone running less than 30psi runs higher risk of a bent rim from a pot hole and when less than 27psi also risks blow outs from overheated sidewalls at high speed. This is especially true of low profile types

Could you have coggled a piston? If they are forced back and there is any corrosion on a piston then one or more could have jammed. It still might be worthwhile to take to pads out and see if the pedal goes freely down. Obviously it will if any piston is moving and means fluid is moving. Do one pad at a time to check if that pair of pistons is moving freely then push them back all the way into the caliper. If one piston moves too freely then jam in a small piece of wood so that the pressure all goes to the other of the pair.

I think you might have to retrace your steps! Take the pads back out and see if the pistons are moving when you press the pedal. Also did you bleed the fluid as you pressed back the pistons or was there space in the reservoir for when the level rose back in there? You might have pressurised the reservoir and its causing the servo not to work and the abs to see it as a brake system fault.

You should try it with the wheels first because you might be surprised about how much harder that already makes the ride and how much sharper the feel. I have the same size tyres on mine. Also beware lowering too much as the camber change especially on the rears will kill the inside edges of the 265s in no time. If you do go that way you should probably budget for adjustable top links front and rear to reset the camber and also the increased risks of dinging your new wheels on our potholed roads.

If you had a whiff of anti freeze at the same time it can be a sign that your heater matrix just sprung a leak once the water pressure was good and high. Fits with being stuck in traffic! Known issue. When the footwell gets wet and the windows regularly steam up you'll know its got bad. Look for signs of dripping from under the dash. Changing the matrix is not fun. Chances are it wouldnt happen again on a motorway, more likely in stop start traffic - if indeed this is the problem.

Probably the original seat frames re upholstered? The controls are normal Z ones.

You should try to put a voltmeter on the battery terminals to see what the charge voltage is. As JeffTT points out there is probably a duff diode in the rectifier or the soldering has melted away on one of the joints. Sometimes you can still be getting 50% or enough charge to keep things going but I remember an alternator fault on a previous car that meant the battery was given full charge current the whole time it was running. Needless to say as well as a new regulator for the alternator I ended up needing a new battery as it got cooked! Worth checking the connections to the alternator for any corrosion etc. ...and look for a 2nd hand one meantime

Hate to wee on your bonfire but make sure your insurer knows about it too.

I put on the Japspeed one also and it is amazing quality for the price. The whole thing is polished as if anybody will see it under the car apart from the ends. I heard the sound on some youtube clips and it sounded really good there. Mine sounds a bit different and I can only think the difference is the turbos as turbos already change the sound from how an NA sounds. I guess getting the cats off also changes the sound - louder again. As it is it is much quieter driving around town than my previous custom made system and yet still sounds good in the tunnel test. It has the mid pipe section siamesed then split off again.

Mine too but there's a teeny wee oil drip coming off one of the diff drive shaft oil seals so its not running totally perfectly!

If you have a UK stock unit then it is set for 95 and mine runs totally fine on it. No doubt if boost was upped there would be a risk but the det sensor works fine and no issues. Have tried the higher octane types but any improvement was mostly imagined. I also did not get any more mpg. The timing is on normal too. If you advance it a bit in the search for more power then again you bring the risks that need the costlier juice. It loves cold damp weather and fairly shifts on that! Costs nowt in Scotland!

Warning light tends to flicker a while before staying on solid. Ran mine out completely after driving around with the light on for a few days. She just cut out and coasted to a stop. Quick call home and a container was on the way. Then to the garage for 69 litres! Always use 95 also - UK stock version - well with intake and exhausts. No issues, no residue, none of that B/S thats why we have fuel filters. Just put the fuel in, turn ignition, hear pump pressurise system and start up, no drama.