WillieO

There's a bolt and a stud holdong it on and they can come loose. The first you know is graunchy starts if you are lucky and the second is it falling partly out and breaking the mounting flange. Get under with spanners asap.

Feel the radiator core - if it is cold then it is clear you have a block somewhere, an airlock or no water flow. It would be unusual for a thermostat to fail closed. They usually fail stuck open. Also if the system were to overpressure the radiator cap valve should open and bleed pressure/water into the overflow tank. Do you actually see steam? If you start it from cold and let it tickover while keeping checking the top hose it should stay cold until suddenly getting warm as the thermostat begins to open. It should then begin to go firm as pressure rises. If it's something very serious like a blown head gasket what can happen is combustion gases actually pressurise the water system. This creates an airlock and no water can flow. You might also see oil in the water, emulsified oil or mayo as Grover says above under the oil filler cap and on the dipstick.

I think its not so much that the clips come loose it is more that rubber ages and shrinks and hardens then the clips loose the grip they had. You can certainly tighten them all but also look for perishing cracks and especially tighten the one directly under the fuel pressure regulator leading from it to the fuel rail below it. Its the most likely leaker because it never gets checked because you cant see it without taking off the cover on the plenum over the throttle cables.

Think it was 8mm high pressure fuel hose. You can find it at Halfords.

My passenger one also was sticking but it was lack of use and by locking and unlocking with the key it soon loosens up and starts working with the central locking agaon. Guess it needs a strip down and clean and lube!

Cheers! bit behind the times me then. My zeds had a foot of snow over it!

Just seen a long advert for this game on TV and my son pointed out a yellow 300zx in the advert. Rewound the Sky+ and yes tis true. Guess it means its in the game as well.

No. The fpr is on the rhs of the trim over the throttle cable cover trim when facing the engine approx between back two cylinders. You can see two hoses onto it but not the one directly below it. It goes down to the fuel rail and its the one that leaked on mine. You need to take off the trim to get under it with a screwdriver or small socket to tighten it. It can make people change the FPR when there is nothing wrong with it. People make the mistake of just tightening what they can see.

Think I crammed in 7X5s in my UK 92

I think that you normally want less lean in at the top unless you dont care that your wide low profile tyres will be wiped out on the inside edges in a couple of thousand miles. Rather get it set up for 0 camber because lowering it and wear/saggy bushes will already make it very negative. You can max out the top link inner side adjusters as a start and if your arches are fouled then its the arches you need to roll or grind out of the way. The rear steering arms also will need reset to make the toe-in just right and if this isnt done right the steering will feel well odd and may end up offset or pulling.

Its the one under the fpr that you cant see that leaks most. Take off the ventre trim to see under it. It's due to the rubber shrinking when cold and old! When the engine gets a bit of heat it seals again

Normal UK is 30-90. Its really scary if you get going 90 and set it to cruise there then slow right down then hit resume when you are just above 30! Its like some crazy person has their foot on the loud pedal as it goes on boost to get back to 90 with you just holding the steering. Don't try this on a busy restricted road off course! I hit the brakes before it got back there. Bit of a feardy me. Try lifting clutch pedal and/or brake pedal with your toe a little when trying to engage and this will show if its an out of adjustment microswitch. My other car needs the clutch pedal lifted any time I want cruise on and thats a lot with these damn average speed cameras in local ongoing roadworks with 15 miles of it. Its a good way to keep to the limit.

Oil cooler in front of the water radiator, tichy little power steering HICAS oil cooler in front of that. Another oil cooler above and to the right of the diff in UK TT. Auto transmission cooler uses pipes that are inside the water radiator.

Thanks. The balance thing was a surprise for me too since two previous balances in different places failed to stop it to the extent I thought it was something you had to live with with non standard wheels. Then talking with a tyre fitter he told me he could balance for zero out of balance. Naturally you would think that's what always should happen but it isnt the case. You have to actually ask for zero and know that its possible otherwise you get what is good enough for most cars and that just isnt good enough for a Z which seems sensitive to balance issues.

Have you tried idling the engine and carefully wiggling the connector wirring to that coil pack to see if it comes alive? I had a similar problem that got cured this way and touch wood has stayed cured. I never did identify exactly where the bad connection was but it affected middle cylinder LHS when facing the engine.

front wheel balance! The pulsing is when the 2 wheels are in sync with each other then you go round a bend or something and the different speeds mean they go out of phase again and the vibes ease off and then come back again as they get back in bad balance phase. Answered your other post with the same issue I suspect. The prop centre bearing rubber mounting vibe is more around 40mph and worse when cold.

Are you sure it is not the upper link bushes? Some small degree of actual play in those is allowable. There is a Nissan bulletin about it you can search out here that gives the limits. The bushes are changeable. There are 2 inner and 2 outer. Wheel balance can be a big problem. I put up with it for years until a fitter told me he could balance for zero whereas they usually accept some number of grams of unbalance. Once they did it for zero I had no more vibration. It was like a different car. I think the issue is worse the bigger and wider the wheels are.

A dead give away of a seizing piston is a hot wheel hub even after quite a short journey. If the pistons go back in freely it doesnt sound like they are seizing. Maybe the pad edges are rusting and making them jam in the caliper?

Think the type regs want auto leveling and headlamp washers too. When the glass is dirty the glare is really bad with HIDs for oncoming drivers. Zeds halfway there with headlamp washers! and self levelling is hardly an issue for a sportscar that hardly ever brings back more than 4 bags of compost from B&Q.

If the cat was blocked it would overheat at the cat and run really badly. More likely the problem is at the rear silencer on the passenger side and the balance pipe is diverting the gas from that side is to the drivers side exhaust. You could try blocking it the drivers side exhaust on tickover to see if any gas is forced back to the other side. It is possible that when you thought you were ripping out loose baffles from the passenger side one all you did was free up the mineral wool sound damping material sometimes used and this has balled up and now almost totally blocked off the passenger side exhaust.

They didnt have it on one of the end ramps that gets parked up to the ceiling at a steep angle did they?. I watched them move a ramp on a ferry and thought that my car would get crushed onto the ceiling. Maybe if it was stored on the ramp at a steep angle some normal trace oil in the exhaust from the turbos could get onto the cat and burned as soon as it was started. So probably not a problem.

The expansion tank also has an overflow. That is why it has a dipstick so you can check the level. If it is overfilled the excess comes out.

That would be crazy. If it aint broke dont fix it! The mechanical pump is reliable and when the pressure goes above normal requirements the extra is bled off and sent through the cooler and back to the sump. Just imagine the fuse goes on your electric oil pump - end of engine in 30 seconds.

When you are about to start it, switch the ignition on and with the door open listen for the fuel pump pressurising the system. You should hear a faint buzz from the rear of the car as it runs then silence when the system reaches pressure. If it takes more than a few seconds before it stops then it could be fuel draining back from the injectors that is the problem. Even if you cant hear it operating just try having the ignition on for 10 seconds or so before you switch on the starter. If it then starts instantly your on to it.

The speed sensor gizmo add on for imported cars that makes a km speedo read mph messes up the speed related power assistance. You should get max assistance the slower you go. Maybe a connection issue with the add on box.