WillieO

Try spray silicone rubber grease on the bushes not the ball joints. If the ball joint gaitors are in good condition then spraying them has no effect. If you spray and test you ought to be able to find the creakers.

Prolly needs a cambelt tho :)

Could be on for this too. Did this run a few years back even on to Tongue with neighbour with a 330bhp scooby and a 3 litre diesel 3 series bmw. 750 miles in a weekend! Its further than you think! We got quite childish video recording all the cars in a tunnel to see what sounded the best. Was the zed of course with drain pipe sized exhausts. Now got quieter ones on!

You can replace all the bushes in the upper links. 4 each side - can cost £160ish for parts. You could also have replaced tension link bushes and if the bolt and nut through the bush is not really tight the link moves under braking forward and then reverse making a clunk sound.

Also they kind of start a little dull then brighten up.

Even on safety boost you have positive boost. A gauge that does not go past zero is a worry or a broken guage. The temp sensor problem might be unconnected except so as to cause boost to be limited to safety boost. If you have no boost at all it is a worry as either you have a major boost leak or much worse a siezed turbo. When mine did this it was a siezed turbo.

Accelerate as hard as it will go for a hundred yards or so and stop, open the bonnet and smell both sides of the engine. If there is a seized turbo than that exhaust manifold will be really hot and smoking

If you have a N/A then these are different to the TT (smaller) well thinner 26mm versus 30mm thick on the TT

I put these on and they are fine. They are as cheeap as chips and for sure people will jump in and say they are crap but they are what they are. Machined true and work fine so far. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-300ZX-3-0-TWIN-TURBO-90-94-BRAKE-DISCS-FRONT_W0QQitemZ220363031241QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item334ea902c9&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 I dont expect they would stand up to track use but they are as good as original and have not warped so far despite some extreme stops to test them.

Check ebay. There is a chap who makes up inners outers and rear arches. I used the inners and outers and they were made fine. I found that I also needed inner inner repairs as well and the same bits you found at the front!

I find a sharp dunt on the top of the instrument binnacle helps! Seriously! Mine sometimes sticks at -14psi but a Fonz style tap sorts it and it resumes shooting left and right!

How do you know it died? It will lock out if the pressure is too low. Also are you sure the good stuff put in was the right stuff with the right lubricant else it could be what killed it. You should get your aircon guy to vacuum it out again really, if there is much left under good pressure.

You have to put it in whats called "valet mode" If it's like mine you press the little icky side button on your fob 2 times and the big button one time. The little light that does the flashes when its armed should then stay on continuously. You can still lock and unlock the doors but the alarm wont enable again until the ignition has been turned on. You can then connect and disconnect your battery without any embarrasment and annoyed neighbours. You should also make a point of finding out what your code is for tapping into the little rocker switch in the event your key fob ever goes iffy or as mine did once it forgets the key fob after a very dead battery. The Clifford system links itself to the key fob so you can always buy more key fobs easily and you then register them to the alarm by going into the appropriate setting menu. You can find a manual on it online at Clifford I think.

Originally Posted by WillieO Reads low when hot yet high when cold. Well... thats because Oil is Thicker when cold thus more pressure to Pump it round and Thin when warm so Less pressure needed Not due to a Faulty Sensor But yes they are prone to failing as it may not have been changed so your Sensor is pushing 18+years old so well worth to change or get a new gauge and sender Re hot thin and cold thick - I kinda know that! I'm not quite that thick on engines. And re age and wear on the sensor I know that too and mine has been changed a few years back and is going yet again. The reason it reads properly and high when cold is because that part of the range the sensor operates on is unworn and the low end of the sensor range is worn so pressures less then 2 bar or 28psi can look like zero. That was the point I was making.

If you do a search you will find the stock guage has a sender that fails every few years and reads low when hot yet high when cold. This is because it has a moving part that wears away the variable resistor surface in the part of its range that it is mostly in. To convince yourself that it is not really at zero when idling just open the oil filler plug and look inside at the oil flooding over the cam lobes. An engine with true zero oil pressure destroys itself very quickly.

If you dont have directional tyres fitted you can try swapping front wheels over. Sometimes you can have a tyre that has worn even slightly uneven and causes a camber effect that pulls the steering. But otherwise as already mentioned, dragging brake due to siezed caliper piston or wear or bad setting in rear steering.

Just back on the road and while changing the exhaust I find a trickle of oil from one of the drive shaft oil seals. Now spots all over my monoblock. Anyone suggest the best place to find seals please?

You dont normally flush a diff. If you think it should be drained and refilled then there is a drain plug. It takes a lot of oil as the UK Euro one has an oil cooler as well. Check the online manual for the correct grade and quantity to refill it. There is a filler plug that is the maximum level also. Make sure the car is reasonably level when refilling as you could overfill it which can then lead to seals going due to pressure from oil churning.

UK cars came with Brembos - these look like the stock types fitted on lower spec imports

And unfortunately these reds fade a bit. You can check the paint code on the plate under the bonnet. I had a local specialist make me up panel sized aerosols of AJ4. Turned out not a bad match as long as you paint the whole panel!

You have the writers talent there. I was right with you as I read that first post! Know exactly how you felt. Brings back a memory when working under my 240Z years ago at my parents house where we had a garage with a pit. The light had gone and I used a torch. At one point I dropped my oily rag and reached down in the darkness to pick it up and found something soft and squidgy - a poor dead oily rat no less! Crapped it when I shone the torch on it and realised what I was squeezing.

That looks like a horn thats fallen off. Is it yours perhaps? You will need the little extender gizmo to screw into the valve once you unscrew that little cap - Using the points of a par of her nail sissors might do it to get the cap off. Might also stuff the sissors! Mate had to buy one from a wheel place for BBS and they are expensive for what they are.

Is it proper tweed? In the Hebrides the cloth was soaked in sheep or human urine. The ammonia loosened the waxy lanolin in the new cloth so that it could be removed by the milling process. The urine acted as a mordant and also gave the cloth a soft texture. It set the colour, especially indigo. I've been told that indigo was called 'pisspot blue'. Maybe Nissan used a different process :) Suppose you could re do the process to get that authentic damp Harris tweed old style smell

I think the max is 90mph. Try setting it at 90 then cancel and on a suitable empty road, of course, hit resume at 30 and see how long you can resist touching a pedal to cancel. It is quite unnerving seeing it get boost and racing back to 90 when you aren't touching the pedals.

It needs driving. The noisy hydraulic tappet / lifter will soon sort itself out with some steady warm oil flow. It can be typical with any that have been stood idle a long time.