WillieO

100psi is way too high. Is this with cold thick oil? Normal should be somewhere 50-70psi at 3000rpm and anything around 20psi plus is good at hot idle. Maybe the aftermarket one is not accurate. The pressure releif valve shoule limit it or seals can be pushed out

no its not

The truth will eventually come out! But a 300zx with everything working and looking like that no way £1500 Would have been really interesting if the stig had done a timed lap in each of the cars.

Mine's been off the road for way more than a year and the tank is 3/4ths full. It starts instantly. Old petrol works fine! Maybe the octane rating drops a little bit but not that much in a sealed tank.

It steers opposite to the front wheels up till about 30mph then in the same direction as the fronts at higher speeds. It means the whole car moves to the side at speed rather than turning as such. There are differences in UK and import versions and the later one is electric.

Shocks are the main cuplrit added to by worn joints. It's not the HICAS

Are you sure that it is not the injector that's not operating? You could still have a wiring break upstream of the connector.

I had this even after getting the discs skimmed but only cured it by replacing them. If you can feel any pulsing at all when driving slowly and braking gently then one at least has not been skimmed true. You can pick up stock discs for less than £80 a pair so not a lot of point in skimming them these days. Did you have all 8 pistons out to check them?

Quote i have also tried counting the gears yesterday and i swear on numerous occasions it felt like i got 5th????! unquote When the lock up clutch operates to freeze the torque converter and make the drive totally direct it feels like a fifth gear being engaged. The revs drop again as the slip disappears just like when a gear change occurs.

The compressor locks out at about 30 psi left in the system. Below that it stays locked out. The gas naturally leaks out over time and by 8 years is mostly gone gone unless serviced and recharged. You can get a compatible to R12 (non R13a) drop in refridgerant that does not need any mods to the system and works perfectly. It was used in mine. The aircon guy would need to vacuum the system to see what is left and to boil off any moisture inside and to check for leaks before he would refill it. They can inject some coolant with flourescent dye in it that helps show up any small leaks.

Have you also tried the autobox diagnostics explained in the online workshop manual? There is always the replacement autobox route. I was able to get one that was reported to have been fully rebuilt and so far it does seem to have been an excellent box. The original on my UK TT lasted 140k miles

and while its a 4 speed box it can feel like 5 changes if you notice these things. This is because when the lock up clutch operates on light throttle after about 40mph the revs drop again as the converter slip is gone.

It can be early signs of an auto box about to fail. The "missing" sensation can be clutches slipping momentarily when the load is upped on them.

Sometimes a bit of a blatt can make the dipstick for the auto box pop out with pressure and some transmission fluid can be ejected. Maybe this is what is getting on the exhaust and smelling. Look at the dipstick to see if its in its sheath or poped up an inch or so.

Speed sensor issue maybe? and you might have one of those kph/mph converters going faulty since your is an NA manual Is the speedo still working? Also check power steering fluid level. The "system" must be thinking you are permanently going slow or maybe in a safety mode and giving max power steering assistance rather than none.

Dont you have to make sure the ears on the torque converter engage with the slots in the bit at the base of the input shaft for the box otherwise it will baulk. Spinning it wont help. You have to take it off and check that the ears are aligned on the torque converter to slot it to the bits that drive the box oil pump. Like already said you risk damage if you try bolting the torque converter to the flex plate before you fit the box.

Had this same symptom before. It was the small bore rubber hose that connects coolant water to the turbo that side coming from the back of the plenum I think, It comes down right behind the head and block coming down just in front of the bell housing. When you switch off a hot engine the water pressure rises immediately then the small crack in the hose opens and sprays a fine jet of water onto a hot turbo hence the white mist smoke effect. It doesn last long before the pressure bleeds away hence how hard it is to find it. I think the heat from the turbo eventualy hardens the rubber which then cracks. It is an absolute pita to change because there is hardly any room. You need thin hands, long nose pliers to undo the spring ear clips and to drag off the existing hose break it up etc then patience to replace it with a specially cut to length one that has to be eased on one pipe end then slid back onto the other one then clipped with those spring ear clips. I was able to do it from underneath with skinned knuckles. Always worth changing all these small hoses when an engine is out. You'll need a mirror on a stick and a good light to see it from up top! Good luck if this is the problem.

Might be as well to change the pads too. They might be cooked glazed or crumbling. Stock Mintex pads are cheap. Otherwise check the shims are the right way round. With changing the tension arm bushes you might find also that you need to re torque the big bush bolts after a few days - especially if you hear a clunk when braking after reversing.

My aircon guy put in a compatible alternative to R12. It was definitely not R134a. The z system already runs at a high pressure and I believe that R134A runs at an even higher prerssure in it. So it might be that the pressure relief system might be bleeding it off until it is not nearly as effective as it should be. Mine needs refilled again because the engine was out for turbos and was emptied. But it worked really well before hand for 3 years anyway. The proof was getting 7 deg C with a thermometer at the vents on max cooling! I think the type code for the compatible type refridgerant was R416 or R426.

One obvious indication that the aircon is de pressurised is to have the engine idling and switch from auto to econ to auto. You should hear the engine revs pick up when you switch to auto as the extra load for the aircon compressor is carried. Once the pressure is gone the system locks out the aircon compressor to save damaging it and the revs will not change at all. A working system when switched on to auto will quickly heat up the condenser rad in front of the radiator. You can also see the coolant or lots of bubbles if its low in the sight glass window.

If this was shortly after starting from a cold engine then it is more likely your aircon just vented itself and you caused a hole in the ozone layer. You are probably responsible for all this good weather! Hope its the pressure relief valve rather than burst! The 300zx aircon system runs at quite a high pressure as it is and some substitutes make it run even higher. Does it still work now? Has it been refilled before with an R12 (is it) substitute?

Wasting fuel and performance running as cool as that. Is it not staying on safety boost?

Also you might have an overfilled expansion tank any way and the excess just overflows if the rad cap allows a bit more into it. Check top hose goes hard by giving it a squeeze (carefully) when its hot. Otherwise the rad cap is leaking the pressure away.

I would almost bet that your FPR wasnt even leaking either - it would just have been the hose connection on to to the fuel rail going down from it. Makes it look like its leaking. Either change back and try that or as said make sure you havent switched ins for outs etc.

Is the slave cylinder pushing forwards enough though tho? Was there any noises before it went? Did you try to bleed it? Does it change gear ok when moving? Sounds like its just not got enough travel. Maybe worn seals in the master or slave cylinders. If the fork or release bearing or anything inside the bell housing has gone then the box needs to come off.