WillieO

Automatic transmission cooler connections

They don't have needle rollers in them. Here's the link on the bulletin http://www.300zx.org.uk/nissan_bulletin.htm Convince your MOT man

Dip the expansion tank to see if its still full. When water is moved there by push from the radiator relief valve some can be taklen back when the engine cools - providing the radiator cap is working properly. There are 2 valves in the radiator cap. Mine wouldnt pressurise because a small bit of crap was stuck in the suction valve. Does your top hose pressurise properly? Choosing words carefully to avoid double meanins here ;)

Remember there is also a two speed electric fan in front of the radiator of a TT. This is needed for aircon proper operation as well. The stock viscous is good if it works properly and usually they do.

There's a Nissan bulletin about the amount of play that is allowed in the upper link for the MOT. Some play is acceptable. Otherwise the bushes are replaceable with Nismo ones from Nissan at St Helens or by importing from USA. I changed all 8 for I think about £160 but thats a few years back. Avoid the cheaper shiny adjustables - loads of pics of bent ones can be found.

do those rear brake pipes when the rear subframe is off.

Had to do the same last year. But it does get worse unfortunately. You'll find bubbles on the rear wheel arch that are worse than they look then take the rear bumper off and find frilly lower arches and lower rear wings that are hidden that also need done - at least they dont need to be pretty since the bumper hides them. Then when you think you are almost there you will find bits at the front end of the sills and floor pan at the front of the footwell that also need looking at. There are lots of double skins and in the rear sills four separate layers to restore including the outer skin. Oh and when you remove the rear bumper you find that the 3 metal stiffener bracket pieces that support the plastic bumper have also pretty much reverted to iron ore. You have to make those up yourself to get the bumper back on again so again what looks like a simple job to remove and refit the bumper also gets bigger. Gook luck with it!

I had mine break off - well the little screw part attached to the black cap that kind of flushes with the glass. It was tough to find another one and fit it. And also to get the broken bit of threaded part out of the guide pin part.

One was a stud and the other a bolt when mine fell off.

There are kits to enable multipoint injection on 4/6/8 cylinder systems and even turbos are do able. Apart from accepting a drop in performance and even if you are capable to fit a kit and map and adjust the gas map to the petrol map you have to always consider payback. Even fitting it yourself you would need to be driving over 20,000 a year to have the system pay for itself in a decent time, say less than 2 years, and how many zeds get that kind of use these days? The other big danger is the government of the day stuffing taxes on LPG to render the saving worthless before the system even paid for itself You also have an extra tank to lug about, the insurance question or increased premiums and you can forget using the chunnel and some multi storey car parks. It also needs to get a certificate of safety every year for £120 or so.

id like to know how to get the front light jets working again on mine to be honest, i hate it when little things dont work lol Just cleared mines by pulling off the connections underneath the bonnet and using a hose with good pressure to spray into the nozzles on the top side to blow the muck out the other way. Had to do this a few times because each time I reconnected the tubes and used the washers the nozzles immediately clogged up again.

I would have come too but I was stranded in Lanzarote due to the volcano with the airline paying full board and a 4 star hotel for another 7 days. Such is life sometimes.

Well Stu did you check if it was coming loose?

like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ADAPTOR-for-Anti-tamper-flat-Metal-Tyre-Valves-NEW_W0QQitemZ380156139603QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Cars_parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_trims_Valve_Caps_ET?hash=item5883125853

My starter motor is making some funny noise. as i know its about to die. You might find that all thats going on is that it is coming loose! They do that! Then if you leave it too long one more start causes the motor flange to crack. Mine broke on one side. I used araldite and wire 5 years ago and re fitted it temporarily and bought another starter on Ebay for £25. My araldited flange one is still working fine till now. There's a nut and a bolt that holds it on and one of them vanishes and the other loosens. Mine just sounded funny then an awful clunk was it breaking. Might have saved you 140 bucks here!

Pistons are not hard to get. What does a lazy piston meant though? If it can be pushed back in fairly easily then it is OK. Really bad pistons hardly move when you try the brakes with the pads out and they are not easy to push back either. The give away is perished outer bellows which lets the moisture and salt corrode the polished surface causing them to sieze. I think they are the same as Scoobys from just a few years back. I have 4 pitted ones in my garage somewhere from the 2 each side I had to replace due to sticking. They are about 40mm dia. Finding 4 of the 8 pistons u/s after 18 years in UK is not surprising.

Poly bush is OK imho with the correct elasticity of poly. Had Superflex in mine 7 years plus and no issues and I have always been checking the main lower arms due to the previous posts about cracking. Handling is good too.

That properly siamesed Japspeed joint is beautifully made and welded and at the joint part the diameter is more than the single pipe diameter but whether it makes twice the cross sectional area of one pipe I don't know. I can't believe it any more restrictive than those quite crude looking welded jobs that Legrath has pictured above and definitely better than an H pipe. The other advantage of the siamesed joint is that after the joint you effectively have two routes for the gas which is slowing down as it cools so has less restrictional impedance to face. The way it works is also different for turbo and NA. The turbos already mess up the gas flow pulses after they exit the turbos so all that matters is getting the volume of gas out as fast as it will go. For the NA there is a tuning effect that ought to have each cylinders gas pulse pulling the next one out and making the engine breath easier at the top end if the design is right. The NA definitely seems to sound better if the videos on youtube are anything to go by. Before I fitted the Japspeed one on my stockish TT it had a custom made system on using 3.5" diameter pipes cat back with separate systems each side and it was way too loud and droney at speed and too big a diameter with Apexi cans with about 5" ends and honestly no way any faster than than with the Japspeed system. Its still in the back garden. The pipes were too large a diameter to bend so all the bends are welded in. Effectively the cats remain the main impedance to gas flow after the stock exhaust I think.

Admiral multi car - it saved me paying two premiums after all I can only drive one at a time. Mines is UK.

What about those "consult" devices on Ebay with "shareware" software from HK and China for about £25. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nissan-Consult-Cable-for-Skyline-300zx-Silvia-180sx-etc_W0QQitemZ320500756454QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment?hash=item4a9f556fe6 Appear to do all the things needed. Anyone tried them?

Yes car going fine again. I'll wimp out of this one tho - bit chilly! icy roads and those not so bright headlights! Hope to make the next one.

oil it that'll cure it - did mine

Hi What KFC and what time?

...another issue to consider before you modify the brakes by going to bigger discs etc is that the insurance companies want to know and want a premium increase! Too many choose to ignore this small point thinking I just made the car even safer! The insurer takes it to mean you intend to drive it even quicker than it was ever intended to be used therefore your risks are higher. Neglect to inform and you might as well have bet the premium on a horse because your cover is void.

I bought these thinking worth a try and cheap at that - were a whole 20 quid more for me! They are good quality, properly machined and work just fine. £31.50 each delivered - you could not get discs skimmed for that. Stuck caliper issues are the most likely cause of bad stock brakes and warped discs. I ended up replacing 4 of the 8 pistons and all the caliper seals. Now good as new and good brakes. I'm not suggesting they would be good for the track! ... but I know that there's going to be those that think you have to spend a fortune to get the brakes to work. You really need to know how to fix them or at least get the calipers replaced before you start trying other discs which will also end up warped the first time they get used hard with only half the pistons working. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-200SX-300ZX-2-0-3-0-S14-Z32-BRAKE-DISCS-FRONT_W0QQitemZ220504462303QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item33571713df and like Paul says above you cant really check the pistons unless you also have a way to hold back the ones that move easiest. I tried cheap G clamps and broke several as the G clamp broke with brake pressure before the stuck pistons would move!