WillieO

try a wiggle of each injector connector wire while its hot on tickover. Mine had 4 injector connectors replaced when the engine was out for turbos but for some curious reason the mechanic didnt change the back two and one of them, rear drivers side is definitely causing a miss when I start it from cold. I give it a wiggle and hear all 6 coming in and usually it stays fine the rest of the day. Yes I know I should fix it but I'll wait till its warmer. I think its reasonable to assume this injector connector issue will be affecting more and more engines now.

140K plus miles and counting! One transmission a few k miles back, and one siezed turbo last year. All fixed, changed both, and going strong again better than ever!

On the UK there is a Y branch in the pipework to get the doubled up oil/water cooling on the radiator headers - as Bilky says go for a separate cooler if you can. The J spec had less cooling since it was limited to 112mph. The Euro spec had a bigger engine oil cooler and a diff oil cooler to cope with 155mph running. As if you would!

Just dont get in it on a sweaty hot day with a white shirt on :)

its not that you can bleed it as such, more fill it really slowly with the engine ticking over. Eventually it fills right up. Cap it and warm it right up and the top hose should get good and hard. If the weathers really cold then you need to drive it to get it to pressurise. If it doesnt get hard then its leaking somewhere. If it gets hard and still throws out the water you might still have air locks in the heater matrix or a duff radiator cap or worse a head gasket problem. If its a leak then you should see it drip long before the temp gauge soars.

Just tried to lift the one I have round my back. It really needs 2! Guess about 70-80kg Two of us put it in the boot of my other car.

Big worry would be how good are the roads round where you live as a deep pothole can ruin one.

There's Import Car Parts doing recon kits comprising 4 pistons and a seal kit for about £80. Or pistons for £20 each. - on Ebay or call him on 01388 834204. His seal kits were also about £20. Limited qty available! In my experience on my car it was the inboard pistons that suffered from corrosion and siezing once the dust bellows perish and you could probably do both sides using just 4 new pistons and a seal kit. The outer pistons were perfect on mine. You obviously also need caplipers that are still serviceable such that you can get the stuck pistons out some way. Also if your flush you might as well do em all.

Ferrari Check feedback - last item purchased!

Let me know if its possible to have a looksee as I need to do the same come spring time. I'm in Falkirk

my uk k reg finally siezed one turbo at about 144k. I had it from 110k ish. Got 2 replacements in and still going strong

If the switch gets burned contacts this happens. On mine it was the backrest reclining fine but not rising up again. You have to burst it open to emery up the contacts on the little joystick switch. Not too hard a job if you know what you are doing.

I had rough idling after an engine out -they had two of the small bore air pipes switched around - no boost gauge was the hint. Once I swapped them back the tickover whent back smooth as silk and the guage worked again. - pipes were at the gizmos at the driverside back corner under bonnet.

Sounds like diff and prop noise being transmitted through the chassis. Like Keith says check that they havent closed up the subframe to chassis mounts.

Whats the bimetallic coil spring thingy in the viscous fan for? I thought that was to lock it up when it got hot? And the viscous was to let it slip after a certain amount of rpm the rest of the time

mine too, feels exactly as before

Are you sure you dont mean too much negative camber? Usually you need the shims to make it less negative. The upper link bushes are replaceable if worn. Same Nismo parts fit Skyline. Cost me about £160 a few years back for the 8 bushes.

I just bought some too. Look really well made - somebody polished everything! Hope they are a bit quieter than the 3.5" pipe cat back custom system that is fitted

Gave the girlfriend a shot and within 3 miles she had kerbed both ns wheels and cut the sidewall on a 265/35 18, 451. So now I'm trying 452s! £230 for a new pair of rears - expensive wee shot!

Always check the connecors too - Mine showed a dead one when it was just green oxide in the connector - easier and cheaper to clean the connector than replace a sensor!

if you've a metal wristband on your watch then you can see how long you can let the current flow to test your manhood!

breaker bar should shift them then max out the adjustment - you'll still be on neg camber but not as much

get a new set on ebay for £12 or so

Just pm'd you

Quote from the Stillen site "Extra-cooling, heavy duty 300zx radiator. The 300ZX Twin Turbo is a world-class supercar, capable of tremendous power with moderate modifications. If you are going to be racing or pushing the limits of performance, you need greater cooling capacity. This oversize radiator increases cooling capacity by seventeen-percent. Designed originally for the 300ZX Twin Turbo models shipped to Europe for running high-speed on the Autobahn, the radiator will keep the engine in its optimum operating range even under such extreme conditions. Application: 90-96 300ZX Twin Turbo Manual Transmission, 90-96 300ZX Twin Turbo Automatic Transmission" unquote is what it said - sorry the link above doesnt work right