WillieO

Furry dice make the revs rise and fall just as quick :)

check connectors thats what was wrong on mine - check diagnostics

It only comes on above about 90mph and when its hot weather. I didnt know it was even there at first till I saw oil leaking onto one of the exhausts after a fast run due to a slack connection. Its a clever system that cant drain all the oil in the event of a leak either so its fail safe. There is a thermo switch to turn it on and you can test it easily by shorting the terminal. If you've got it why junk it. I heard of one zed owner who ruined his rear diff (non Euro spec) after a thrash at 155mph. In reality few people ever can test those limits for any length of time and stay out of jail and its only at continuous operation at those speeds where the diff would be at risk. Course loads would say they do humungous speeds and no probs without it but how oftern have you heard of escorts that did 140. It really has to be 155mph limiter type speeds for a decent time in warm weather before the oil would overheat and risk the diff. Fact is if you dont do very high illegal speeds then you wont ever miss it. If it aint broke then dont fix it either. Nissan didnt fit it for decoration.

You also need to watch that you are not powering them via the stock wiring which is only light section for signal level to the amps. You need to re wire with decent section. If there is a rear amp its on the offside rear under the trim panels and the ABS gizmo is nearby also. You strip the trim panels starting with the centre rear one. I put 7X5 in the rear spaces and sealed the tops so that the bass cant leak round to the back of the speaker - makes a huge diff to the sound quality.

Pistons for a £10 err sod Nissan charged £35 for a seal kit and about £40 for one piston!

Switches out at less then 30psi pressure left in the aircon or basically about empty. Zed aircon can reach hundreds of psi. Dont understand the need to drop out the fuse - dont you have an econ button? Also the aircon compressor needs running periodically to stop seals gettin ruined

So called "driving lights" should have a long beam whereas so called "fog lights" have a wide fan shaped short range beam. Apparantly the law is if its mounted bumper or below it can only be used in bad visibility otherwise for pose prat value for the visually challenged its a £30 ir £40 fine if they can be ar5ed to pull you over. Or you just irritate your fellow motorists like me:)

Chris Sorry to disappoint you but you are unlikely to get the 2 k back when you sell it. Maybe half a k is more likely and that might just buy you a haf decent 2nd hand manual box. No fitting inc tho Stick with the box you know!

sorry did I write all that :) Its the engineer in me trying to get out. Must get out more!

By MAC 1 Suppose the radiator can dump 100kW heat as a max at a given ambient temp and the engine generates less than 100kW heat loss even at max power then no overheating will occur under any driving conditions and the thermstat will keep the temp at the optimum. If you then cover 90% of the rad with cardboard then it essentially cannot dump any more than 10kW so the engine will run at a higher than normal temp whenever it is generating more than 10kW of heat losses. It will overheat and die quickly at full power output. However it will run at normal temp whenever the heat generated is 10kW or less. It wont run hotter unless heat output exceeds what the rad can get rid of. It wont run cooler just because you take away the cardboard over the 90% even if its only dumping 10kW because the thermostat will throttle back the water flow to maintain the correct engine temp. Same argument goes for the aircon rad removal. What you can get in extremely cold weather is the stat remaining closed and the heater core inside the car dumping enough heat inside the car to keep the engine temp below stat opening temp if all you are doing is slow driving. Then the engine temp will be lower than normal. So while junking the aircon rad might increase the total max amount of heat the rad can get rid of, perhaps by 10%-20% even, it can't make it run cooler than the thermostat decides when less heat is being generated. Only a duff or sticking stat can do that. The rest is wishful thinking or inaccurate guages imho. If the engine can never generate more than the hypothetical 100kW and the rad can actually dump all of this or more even with the aircon fitted then there's no reason to junk the aircon unless its broke and you cant afford to fix it or you are a track junkie and need all the cooling and weight loss you can get. What I would agree with is what happens at max speed. My old 240Z would always sit happy at normal temp except when flat out in hot weather where it would gradually head for the hot end of the guage. Under those conditions the heat generated clearly exceeded the rads capacity to dump it. Perhaps it was due to some furring up of the core or perhaps the cooling system was never rated for flat out running. After all when and where can you do it these days? My TT has never ever been anywhere near flat out cos I'd like to keep my license and liberty. It also stays at normal temp even with 30C and aircon on in heavy traffic.

It's the thermostat in the cooling water system that sets the engine water temperature. So it does not make any sense that said thermostat would suddenly decide to leave the engine 6 deg cooler cos the aircon is gone unless the stat was now jamming open. Cool running is a sign of a sick stat and a radiator in good condition doesnt care whether aircon is on or off or even fitted. Plus in this weather there is bu99er all thermal load on it anyway. So a good stat would compensate back to whatever the correct running water temperature should be. Alternatively your engine is dumping much more heat than the cooling system can handle due to the engine mods and if so you are in trouble come summer if 6 deg means so much now. And the aircon circuitry does drop off the compressor clutch to release more power while you have your foot on the floor but the climate control system keeps on blowing hot or cold whatever selected meantime and assumes your foot cant stay there forever. Aircon loading is highest when the car is not moving at all and very low when it is. The faster its moving the more efficient as a cooler it is. If you really dont need chilling or demisting there is always the econ switch. It'll save fuel if often stuck in traffic but not so much on the open road. A lot of people dont seem to realise that the aircon needs using at least every couple of weeks to avoid compressor seizure or seal damage. Anyway mine chilled beautifully on a hot August jammed on the m25 for hours and the engine temp stayed fine. Figured it to be the toughest test the system could have. Defo for keeping.

Apart from the free rust the UK car has 30% bigger radiator, bigger engine oil cooler and transmission oil coolers and a rear axle (diff) oil cooler. Theoretically all these are needed for continuous flat out running, as if you ever could, and so the JDM one cant, as if they every could that is. Also apparently a different program on the HICAS operation.

Its the standard power amp for the rear speakers

btw keeping on filling with fresh water will also lead to rot as the oxygenated fresh water will corrode its inards, ally heads iron block ally rad, ally heater core. It needs antifreeze and corrosion inhibitor.

Fill it up get it hot then squeeze the top hose when its running or shortly after switching off - watch your fingers with the fan!!! If the top hose doesnt get hard then its not pressurising and a dead giveaway that its leaking somewhere. Even a pinhole will stop it pressurising and it will only leak when you are giving it some load by driving it. When its ticking over at idle it cannot generate enough heat to really push out water through a pinhole. Especially in this weather. Also you need to be sure you are not airlocking when you fill it and check it after every journey as you risk warping a head and ruining it totally if you let it overheat

Do you know how much these wheels will wipe off your top speed? :) Seriously wheels with turbine type vanes cause huge drag at very high speeds and those ones look like the intakes on an RB211 jet!

n buy a new copper sump plug washer - pennies from Nissan. in fact even the original Nissan filter is prolly cheaper than a Halfords one.

60W is treacle - fine for Texas mid summer and track use but in UK in winter? 0-40W Fully synthetic. Wets those turbo bushes fast, no tappet noise on start up, perfect for winter. and mines has starship mileage and original turbos imho that is - now on year 5 of these trials

Also consider the fact that some light colours look crap after a couple of years wear and dirt. And no amount of cleaning gets the drivers seat to match the hardly sat on one. I saw one with light centre panels that looked fantastic till you opened the doors but once inside it just looked grubby and poorly fitted. Nothing like an original good leather interior.

Surprising or maybe not is the feckers check the DVLA site then offer the plate as if they already owned it when its still on DVLA unissued. Mate got one for £500 off DVLA with transfer etc in after one of the privateers offered him the exact same plate for a grand plus transfer etc. He assumed it was sold but I got hijm to check the DVLA site and it was there. One thing to make a profit another to take advantage. So check dvla first and last. Also some traders sell a plate they dont own then they trace it to the owner (wonder how??) and try to buy it for less of course and months can go by meantime - one trader was in the press about the number of times he did this and all the ccjs and court claims against him from customers he stiffed.

The slotted 3g discs do make a bit of a rrrr noise when braking hard but they do stop you and after 4 years on the car I think they are pretty OK. Sticking caliper pistons is an issue on these cars. Especially if the bellows rubbers gets perished and the water starts rotting the piston finish. You can find on 1 or 2 pistons on each caliper are sticking. Makes a huge difference to braking performance.

Can be a stuffed wheel sensor or connection to one. There is a ABS diagnostic check in the manual so as to identify what is wrong. Look it up and try it.

Mine was the Du Pont nomex fluffy stuff underneath. Its not been back on again. If you have somewhere out of the wind to keep the car and can put on all the straps underneath and so on to hold it down then its better than it being covered in grime and birdpoo. I hope to t cut the fine marks back to its shiny red perfection when it warms up a bit.

leaaving it on long term outside will always damage paint. A little dust, add some wind and the damn thing flaps and polishes the dust into the finish. Mine was left with fine crazing all over the paintwork after leaving it covered for a few weeks one winter. Also one of the breathable type covers.

worn out centre sections also suggest over inflation as well as too many burnouts