WillieO

Bell Direct will give you a second policy with the same no claims if you bring both cars to them - they've done mine for 4 years now. Business use both cars and insured ncb both cars.

I'm goin in mid dec. Where's the best hire car place and whats best to hire? hows the surf?

There is not really much point to changing the rears. Rears do about 20% of the braking so even supposing the replacement is slightly better thermally it is still hardly worth the effort to have the 20% improved by 20% gives about 4% overall. Doing the fronts is the only worthwhile mod for real improvement. imho that is.

Coolant will go missing its just that when it cools it can suck some water back from expansion tank to replace it and eventually that will go dry. So keep checking it and the expansion tank level. There are two short approx 3" hoses that go from just under the top water connection to each cylinder head. Mine had a leak there but you'd never find it with the engine just ticking over. You need to drive it quite hard then switch off and look with a small mirror and a torch. When the heat soak of the hot stopped engine hits the water jacket it will try to pressurise and any leak will show itself then. Keep squeezing the top hose just after its switched off to feel the pressure. Mine now has a leak on a rear hose that wizzes on the hot turbo about 3 minutes after switching off good and hot. Makes like a steam engine! Now trying to find that one. You dont get long to search as the pressure soon goes and you cant see anything at the back of the engine. As to the fuel smell, well that smell means fuel is spilling out. My bet is the hose down to the injector rail directly under the FPR on the rear right side of the cover with the Nissan badge on it between the last two intake pipes. You have to take that cover off to get at the hose connectors. Better still buy a couple of metres of high pressure 8mm fuel hose and replace every fuel hose you can find under there. The leak happens when stone cold, especially frosty weather when the hose is hard and inflexible - after 10+ years. The fuel pisses down into the vee of the engine then down the back of the bell housing and onto the ground right under the car. Take a look under the next time you smell it! Hope you dont smoke:) Did mine a couple of years ago and no more smells.

or use that rainex stuff. Its weird just driving and the drops fly up and off the screen. It makes the wipers really quiet too. Bit of work applying it but it stays on for about 3 months

You have to unbolt the upper arm bracket from the body. Long extensions and good sockets needed. I replaced and rebushed the arms for both sides in about 3 hours with Nismo bushes. So just replacing them shouldnt take that long. With adjustables you will just have to make sure that you measure the present arms as is and start with the adjustables set to the same length. Then get the camber and track adjusted later. Also I think the tension rods can be done even without removing the undertray

My Clifford has a bit under the dash rhs of steering wheel with a pot on it for sensitivity, a bit under the hardboard panel in the boot on the nearside connected to the sensor thingy and another main bit behind the trim panel right side rear seat. - or was it left side? all the wires are black and the car actual wiring connection record diagram I got was printed on that shiny fax paper that goes white eventually leaving you with no idea where the connections all are. Wonderful. Also the siren is down under the nose and it has its own batteries that mean it keeps going even if you cut the wire to it. I had a problem with mine due to a flat battery and found the hidden bits by disconnecting the siren and letting the alarm go off- then you listen for relays clicking behind the various panels to find the bits. Needed to use an access code to get valet mode then to re register the remote to the alarm. No more problems Bob will know for sure

me too never bettered 26mpg. worst ever 16

and you still need the boost jets or a controller to up the wastegate pressure otherwise all you will get from the JWT is the extra fuelling at the top end without the boost pressure to give the air to use it

I think if you blooter it when its overfilled the pressure in the box can also make the dipstick lift out of the tube a bit. The breather is just a bit of brake pipe diameter type pipe sticking out the top of the box and facing rearwards at the back of the gear box. I'm sure when its overfilled and driven hard the pressure chucks some out here that sticks to the underside of the car then slowly drips down and you only realise it when you are parked up after a hot drive.

Less than 5000 miles a year wont wipe off the rust that grows from the edge of the wiping surface. If you get under you'll prolly see the discs look even worse from the inner surfaces. Got to use it more or garage it

Bell Direct give you the same NCB on a second car you bring to them. I have both with them a few years now and both are insured for full business use

eco turns off the aircon compressor so no chilling or dehydrating the air. You should hear the engine note change and slow down when you select econ. It saves fuel and power. When you then select auto you should hear a click then the engine speed up slightly as the compressor comes back in again. If you have no change it prolly means your aircon is dead. Low gas pressure locks out the compressor. A recharge might then cure it.

Winter and short journeys point to a 0W40. Mine is approaching 140k miles and I've always put in RS 0-40 Castrol summer and winter. I'd rather have lub getting round fast when stone cold than worry about track days in mid summer. Original tubs too. Sure some will say get thick stuff to dull the rattles on a worn engine or on a very highly stressed engine but I would suggest it'll only wear faster while it waits on treacley oil to get round on a cold morning and while they are waiting the turbo shafts could run dry and run the seals too. Anyway when is a zed engine ever stressed under "normal" driving!

and you should drive it and check the water - its the only way to be sure. Mine has a coolant leak from a water pipe at the back of the engine - needs the plenum by pass I hear - but I'm driving it and keeping an eye on it. Doesnt lose that much water -yet!

The auxiliary belts do screech if they are wet - doubt its anything to do with the timing belt

dont mean to be a spoilsport but you have to tell your insurer about the intake kit and they'll want some dosh for it - because of the extra power

Green oxide in the temp sensor connector pins - the big one is connected to the ecu the small one to the guage. If it thinks its too cold it will stay on the cold running ecu program maybe all the time running too rich etc. Take off the connector and clean/scrape the terminals. The hesitation is partly due to the ecu for the auto telling the engine ecu to retard the ignition timing while it changes gear so as to give a smoother change. Its doing it too much once the engine is actually warm and it thinks its too cold still. You'd better learn about all the zed connectors -most get the green oxide in them at this age and can cause all kinds of strange - but easily fixed once you know how - running issues.

The connectors from the box end up down the front end of the engine bay near the power steering reservoir, there are two of them - maybe one is not connected properly

I thought they were a bit OTT when I got the car but Ive had the car 4 years now and I've got used to kids looking inside them for small animals. They sound good but can be loud when cruising at V fast speeds and long distances. The Apexi cans are smooth rounded and all shiny so it kind of nags you into cleaning them to make em shiny again

An aircon compressor thats dragging and maybe faulty would load up the engine - and like Mathew says foot to the floor should cause aircon compressor to drop out while your foots planted. Try leaving it on econ - full function but no chillin or dehumidifying

back view 5" twin

I'll try to find u one - Ive had the pipes off twice to re weld joints between the cans and the rest. It was fabricated with 3.5" pipe. The welds had rusted - maybe they didnt use the right kind of wire or gas

z

If its the rear main lower wishbone ball joints I think you need to buy the whole wishbone - I was talking to someone who got both sides in from Courtesy in the states