WillieO

Clean it or replace it and try again - it was maybe fouled from lack of use and once fouled it wont fire - it just gets worse - worth a try

The torque converter is where the flywheel and clutch would be on a manual car. The first bit behind the engine. It is a bg finned turbine sloshing in transmission oil to give that nice soft drive - hence the term slushbox. Hope its not that because a box rebuild will cost around £1400 plus removal and fitting. Its just that the person I knew with a similar vibration eventually lost all drive one day shortly after when the box expired. I think his vibe was lower more like 3000rpm. You'd better check for misfires etc first and run the diagnostics to check for engine error codes. Engine diagnostics is dead easy. You short a couple of terminals in a connector under the rhs dashboard but you need to be sure you know which two to do - hence look at the manual. The engine check light flashes a long and short flash sequence that gives you a 2 digit code to look up the problem. Also checks your rhs and lhs O2 sensors. Maybe check autobox diagnostics too - never tried that on mine so dont know how to. The kick between first and second doesnt sound good. Also check the transmission oil level properly and look at the colour and smell it. It wants to be clean and clear reddish not brown or burnt smelling with bits in it. I had a theory it was bits of chewed up clutches that get caught in the torque converter causing out of balance but that could be total BS. Good luck

Is it auto? I remember a car with similar vibs and it had something to do with the torque converter going iffy causing out of balance. Is it worst at a particular rpm

Suggest Nissan for the timing belt and any motor factors for the pads. Also check out traders here. I've got Mintex on just now and they were fine. Also got a set of Lucas Girling ones in the garage and they have shims attached and cost about £25 - £30.

Just fitted an amp in the boot and wired it all up with fat wires all the way to the doors and rear speakers. 2 questions 1. Is it OK to just disconnect the speaker outputs from the head unit now the 4 channel amp is wired to the speakers because thats what I did? 2. It sounds great till I start the engine then the alternator whines thru the quiet bits like a 747 taxiing. Do I need a capacitor or is it because I routed the power lead along with the speaker and phono leads?

it sounds like the engine has run one or more big end bearings. That is very serious and expensive and if it is Nissan locally who rebuilt the engine I think you need to give the problem back to them.

and the 2.5 V6 does less mpg than a Z

What about the plastic air guide venturi thingys on the series 2 onwards? They are supposed to drop the air pressure directly behind the ICs to suck air thru better and at the same time direct air towards the inner side of the discs. This was supposed to be a cheap brake cooling mod for earlier cars as well. One of mines has got cracked on a kerb but its otherwise intact. Have you got those?

Sure you dont mean fan belt?

Unless you dont have a mobile phone or have several and rotate them at random your every movement is already logged. They know roughly where you are every 15 minutes when your mobile sends its "here I am signal". I am all for any means to discriminate between the "us" who do contribute to society and pay our taxes and the "them" who dont. If its the price we have to pay. Defo dont want any kind of tracker in my car thats linked to this tho. Just realised I did a quick 300 mile round trip yesterday. If the phone records were checked they could probably figure out my average speed through several cells. Heck not so sure now - might be a "them" on this one!

But you can fit 7X5 without too much trouble only re drill mounting holes - 6X9 means much more work and sometimes hammer work on the inside of the wheel arches. For 7X5 you might have to ask the ice people to order specially. They did for Kenwood 3 ways for me at about £45.

can we have it as a verified timed quarter?

Maybe its the old sensor problem - the Nissan electric sensor is very unreliable after only 3 or 4 years. It reads correctly when oil is cold but drops like a stone when warm. The sensor wears out in the range its mostly sitting in. You can check it with a mechanical guage - think you will find that is all thats wrong.

Alex Sorry not me Mine were just grooved 20 grove 3gs. They've been on a couple of years now and cost about £80 each delivered I think. Someone else has got a new big disc kit from them with new brackets to re use the existing calipers I remember seeing it on here. suggest you search on 3g brakes Willie

Even same front pads in the last Scooby wrx model - you'll get them locally.

Think I paid about £135 from Nissan dealer.

Mines 136 similar UK TT original engine and tubs. Just figured out how to do the diagnostic after 3 years! Got code 55. Easy to do. Look out for rust on the OS rear wheel arch (bubbles) at 11 O'clock pos and both rear sections of the sills. Obviously by this mileage it wants to have had shocks, front tension rod bushes, as well as all the must haves. Sideways skip at the rear means shocks or maybe duff Hicas arms or outer joints. Look for odd tyre wear.

Dont think a missing clip has anything to do with corrosion here. My clips are in place. I think most UK ones of this age will show some signs of corrosion there.

I've got 2 under my car but thats where they're staying ;) They are welded onto cat back pipework done in 3.5" pipe with welded in bends. Got a piccy somewheres. Think you can see how they look in rides

and all 4 tyres will scrub off the inside edges in less than 4000miles

Around it be corrosion due to it being a great mud trap for UK roads. The plastic arch liner holds the mud against the underside of the inner wing. Mines the same and will need to be dealt with before it spreads further - looks like a push with a screwdriver blade'll go right through it.

If you have a worn univeral joint on the propshaft then that can also cause vibration that goes away when you de clutch. As others say its most likely the centre bearing tho. Youll find that the centre bearing itself is fine but that the rubber mount is harder than a witches t1t and perished and cracked leading to sag in the bearing. Mine was so bad that the bearing was hard down on the bottom of the mount. I got it running for a while temporarily by packing in some thick rubber under the bearing to support it. You carefully jack up the shaft then slip in the rubber strip under the bearing in the bellows part of the support. This lifts it up and makes all the difference.

My 800 Vitesse P plate at 110K has zero rust and immaculate full leather interior. BMW was running the QA by then

If you are going top go rover then try a Vitesse Sport version. 200BHP that can easily be stretched another 20bhp. Already lowered and stiffened on 17". Try before you condemn it. Mines is bril