WillieO

Congrats Gordon. Well done to the missus Dont sell tho. Just wait till the little sod is big enough to say "faster daddy" while you are hairing round bends or roundabouts - in the dry only, of course. Makes you chuckle. Terrifies the wife tho. Keep it safe out there

by Scott Yes I was. Will need to get Colin Dick to bring his beast. Colin is one of the very few I've heard of who can swap turbos while the engine is still in the car and Colins car shifts - the red auto - 13.2 sec quarter at Crail http://www.wodco.com/images/dick300vcd.mpg

I think its more like 60psi. I had the misfortune to have to fit one on my other car a couple of weeks ago. Definitely 60psi on that. Not even the same diameter as the other wheels. Had to keep below 50mph and remember not to do anything daft. The ABS light also came on with it - prolly cause the 2 front wheels are travelling at different rpms to each other. Incidentally anyone ever used the space saver to mount a 10" sub inside. Seems a possible use for it!

I thought that test just dropped one cylinder at a time and measured the drop in rpm. If the drop was minimal it pointed to a problem in that cylinder. There must be a set expected rpm drop on each one. I am sure I have a printout on one of those tests somewhere. Dont see how all 6 can be failed

You also have to back off the bolts and nuts and see that its square and pushed down as far as poss before tightening up. Maybe whack the ally bridge part with a rubber mallet to bring it closer to the top of the engine too. Just remembered as well i had to take the mounts back off and grind down the top edges and the corners that were really holding the hood up. I ground a fair bit out of them then had to finish and re paint the mounts to get the hood to close without bowing it.

I might be up for it. Also there's the Aero and Auto Extravaganza at the museum of flight at East Fortune east of Edinburgh on Sunday 2nd May 2004. The zed club organised a brace of zeds from 240 to 300 last year. Thats an outdoor event. The zed club also organised something at the custom and classic car show at Ingliston. The zed stand last year was just next to an F40, 2 diablos and a RS6 Audi. All indoors. I kept getting requests to fire mine up just for the noise inside the building but it was a no no with the organisers - did it quietly a couple of times though. The skyline boys were there too. For charity the more interesting cars could run on the Ingliston race track giving punters a couple of laps ride for £10 all to charity. Not supposed to be at race speeds tho. Skyline guys did it and had plenty custom. There was Astons, Cobras and other interesting cars going round too. If you exhibit your car you get free entry - my bro even got his Boxter in instead of paying for entry and parking. Still a good reason to see other cars.

isnt it the insulation material just where the reinforcement frames are under the hood / bonnet? I had to cut away some insulation on mine the give clearance to make it shut OK. You should be able to see marks on the insulation where its touching.

Just found out what this means. Not at all what I thought! I'm as game for in car entertainment as anyone but not with total strangers or with voyeurs peering in.

Skidz in central Scotland. Do ally, ICE etc and always beat any prices I get from internet companies. Plus they fit and balance as well and know how to look after decent allys

Guessing but maybe the tiny fan in the aircon sensor between the t tops where the interior lights are. They can get noisy. I had to re lub mine to shut it up.

133 visionary philosopher. Must be stupid I'm missing 24 to do it

5W40 or 0W40 full synthetic

I remember it being a pain to fill with the squeezy bottle - not much room - also check your connections to the diff oil cooler because that was where my diff oil was going. The leccy pump comes on at high speed high oil temp and part pumps it out if any connections are loose.

Where is the rot about? A couple of years ago I saw that a whole rack of pipes heading up and over the diff on my UK 92 had a bit of surface rust on them and I splathered them in waxoyl. I would have thought that there would be a way to replace them with a bit of creative thought instead of dropping the rear subframe. My MOT is a couple of months away.

Jack It could be down to slightly more compressed rubber end pads in the spring cups on one side - ie not the actual springs. For 5mm I would ignore it. I bet if I look at mine it wont be exactly level either. If I wanted to bodge it exactly right I might try jacking up the affected low side, compressing the springs on the car and slipping rubber shim under the spring seats to pad them slightly. Taking them off the car is a lot more work - all the trim out of the rear etc

The back fire would be fuel in the inlet manifolds igniting and the pressure wave might have been enough to burst those pipes. Like others said it gets hot there and mine broke a little Tee piece on the same pipe. It was only the hissing by the battery that led me to it. Why the backfire is another matter. I have made mine do it when starting it from cold by jagging the ignition key rather than holding it long enough. But you just hear the pop.

Just think yours might ave been owned by a famous sumo wrestler before! Changing the springs is pretty easy with the right tools. But 5mm heck its nothing!

Should be a bit of black corrugated plastic under the filter to help avoid water spray blowing up onto it. You can prolly make up something to do the same thing and keep the filter dry

Temp is perfect. The engine purrs. I just felt that the pipes each side of the rad at least would be cool to touch but its always been this way. Looking in the vents at the front the ICs have a lot of fins dinged over from splatting bees etc. Maybe I should take the nose off in the spring and straighten them out. Its just that it really pulls like a train in the cold weather and the boost gauge goes higher than usual. I might even have heard pinking the other day - first time ever in 3 years plus. Maybe because I left it off the road the last couple of months the combustion chambers are a bit furred up.

My other turbo'd car has an IC that stays cool and boost pipes that stay pretty cool. Last couple of days I start using the zed again because its sunny dry and cold. It goes brill and the boost is high. Yet even after pottering when I stop it and check the engine the boost pipes are always warm, the plenums are hot and the metal parts even at the sides of the rad are hot. I wondered if my ICs are partly blocked off with dead bugs etc and not cooling like it should. Any ideas?

I'd like to know if you have any probs matching the red. I had some touch up spray from Halfords but it was not a perfect match as I understand red pigments fade with age. Is there a way to compensate without being a spray meister?

Plus its not the bigger wheel that upsets the camber its just that the smaller sidewall on the tyre has less give and this means that the tyre is less tolerant of the standard degree of camber. If you lower it as well (or have saggy springs) you increase the negative camber and before you know it your lovely new tyres have no tread on the inside edges. You can compensate and get even wear by cornering at .9G everywhere;)

The pipes should be mandrel bent stainless steel. Whoever done mine used 3.5" stainless steel pipe which is way bigger than what comes out of the cats. This goes to the back where Apexi cans are welded on. I would have thought that the bigger diameter pipes the better for free flow.

nah - you are expected to get out and bounce each side of the rear of the car to feel if it has stiffened up

Its the diagnostic to check the system is working