WillieO

I shouldnt think readings at the rad are meaningful. It is not in any circuit nor does it have any sensors into it. The high reading there is probably due to the rubber mounts and the fact that its nearly electrically isolated due to them. Between car body and engine is usually what counts.

Also dont be put off when the bush goes all out of shape! It means its just about to pop in!

Agree with Eric on this. Wiring diag shows wires 26 and 27 from HICAS controller to shock absorber actuator. Its still a mystery to me under exactly what conditions they switch over. Possibly at high speed only. I guess I'll never know until I wire in a light on the circuit. Incidentally some of the imports coming in must have really soft or worn out shocks. I just followed a silver G reg NA cross country at some speed in my "other" car. I backed off because the rear of his zed was all over the place on the bumpy stuff and I was worried he'd do himself a mischief trying to get away from my boring but turbo'd family saloon.

Heard the one about the dyslexic, agnostic, insomniac? He sat up all night wondering if there was a dog...... had half a mind to put in schizophrenic as well but oh the voices ;)

I think this is completely normal. The ecu lets in a bigger richer mixture when stone cold. It takes time to lean off to a normal vacuum on tickover.

When mine was idling too fast sometimes I found that wiggling the connector to the tps would make it settle down. Gave the connections a good scrape and its been fine since. I also did all of the above and have a really stable low tickover now - could almost stand a fifty pee on edge while idling. Then it falls into the fan and blinds you ir does some damage to something else;)

Also beware leaving an auto in drive as you brake even gently to a stop on snow just after starting from cold. The front wheels lock up and the rears just keep on pushing you forwards on fast tickover. Scared the proverbial out of me until I realised what was happening and selected neutral to stop it. Also worse with wide 18" as they tend to ride over the snow.

then disconnect the connector to the idle valve controller at the back of the plennum rhs and re set tickover hot with a small flat blade screwdriver. Then re connect it to give control back to the ecu You got to get between the battery and the plenum to adjust the tickover.

Looks perfect for araldite once its cleaned up - the epoxy will sit in there just nice and seal for ever once its set. Be a bit of a bu99er to get off again tho.

It remains the fact that if you dont tell them about something then the insurance cover is void and they can walk away when you need them. They always take your money tho. Something like NOS is hardly going to get them quoting you happy unless they inhale it first. If that is the case there is no point in paying the premium except to tax the car. Not sure if there is a grey area or whether its simple black or white.

Yes its right but prolly only important if you are a track fiend or regularly cruising hour after hour at 130mph plus on German autobahns in mid summer.

By guinnal Dont see why not but you'd need the actuators to fit to the top of each shocker and you'd need to wire in some kind of control switching because the wiring loom might not be there in imports. US ones have them all round with a switch to turn them all hard. Nobody in their right mind would have them on the hard setting for everyday driving, its too uncomfortable. So I would find it very hard to believe that stock import type is = UK type when on the hard setting. More likely the import type is a good compromise for most types of driving and road conditions.

Your quote might also have included the actuators which you just remove from the old ones so you dont need replacements for them. I dont know if the spring rate on UK / Import is different but it might affect the handling if the cheaper import (softer?) shocker is used with the stiffer UK springs. Not sure on all the facts here but there are differences in stiffness. UK normal is stiff and near rigid when on the stiff setting. Changing them isnt that hard. I was able to get a 35% discount on Nissan prices at the time so £100 each and the dealer got them in a couple of days.

Rear UK stock Tokico type 2 position actuator type cost about £135 from Nissan and Import can be got for £35 each. Can prolly change em in 2 hours labour each max.

The zed sender is not a simple low pressure switch like the kind that operates the yellow light on some cars. It is a transducer with moving parts to correlate pressure to a variable resistance. With time it wears out the bit it is usually operating in. Result is it shows correct when cold and pressure very high but at the middle and low end of the scale its worn out and shows mainly low. Then sometimes it finds a good bit of carbon track and reads great for a couple of days.

fog lamps have a very wide fan shape beam but its also very shallow so it should pick up kerbs but not be reflected back at you. Put some on mine (UK car). They have 55W H3 bulbs in them. Also mate got fined £40 for forgetting to put em off after drivng through fog and missed his flight with an unsympathetic Mr P. According to law they should only be on with seriously reduced visibility. Yet loads of people with a habit that makes em blind anyway use them all the time as twinkling jewelery especially in crystal clear weather.

Just love to hear the reaction when you tell your insurer:) You want to make flames come out? You fitted a butane tank with an ignition system? You piped laughing gas into the car? Your a great risk! Quote you happy:) sure!

Yup. Nothin like poking a taboo in the eye! As Spock says - live long and prosper - aint no rush to get dead! Even the believers arent in a rush - xcept them that think they'll get the 70 virgins

nah, they're all best just slight differences! Anorak talk but watch some peeps get really wound up over it;) Human nature means you tend to justify your own decision to yourself. Its not like we can all afford both auto / manual and import / UK versions so who can make fully objective comparison? Be happy whenever you can!

If you have enough room there is a £22 12v electric impact wrench from Argos / Index that can give 250lbsfoot torque - great for stuck wheel nuts etc and no need to hold the flywheel. Just make sure the right size soccket is used or the nuts will be well and truly chewed up with it. Its about the size of a leccy drill.

Prolly have a claim form that says parked at the supermarket got back and somebody had done this and not left a note!

Bought my UK at 111k miles over 3 years ago and its been sweet. Just a little rust in an offside rear wheel arch and rear ends of sills. Over 135k now. Cam belt done at 102 and tranny oil change as well.

And while the import will be rust free and maybe low mileage from only being raced from traffic light to traffic light in downtown Tokyo, it will have a limiter at 112mph and no diff oil cooler or transmission cooler and a smaller radiator than Euro cars that have been cooled for continuous high speed 155mph (as if!) running. In fact try continuous 155mph (if you can find a private road long enough) on an import once you've de restricted it and you'll fry the rear diff. Oh and the stock import zorst has a choke point in it

Even in 3rd (OD off) you get 70 at 3500rpm ish. Sounds more like you were stuck in second! remember when od is selected you feel a change into 4th then another small change into lock up - makes it feel like 5 speeds!

I've used rs 0-40 last 25k miles. Until I had the car it always had Shell semi synth for the first 110kmiles. Last owner also had a garage do a flush on it thinking it would help cut hydraulic tappet rattle on startup. No leaks not burning and only tappet rattle if I dont use the car for weeks and the oil drains back.