derek_g2001

Wish you were matey... Defo nothing behind the cap. Dunno if I embedded the pic properly, but that is the remains of the tube. I got right up in the hole with my torch, and I can't see any sign of a hose that you would expect to be on there if it was a drain, although I am 100% confident that is what it is........ Its put me on a stop - I have welded and plated the two inner sill pieces, but I don't want to weld up the outer panel until I figure this out.

On a well serviced Tdi, with no mods, you can easily expect to see 250/300K with no issues. As long as they get fed clean oil and clean air they last a long time. Most failures I have seen are on sheds that the owner has cut corners on servicing. As long as you don't boot the nuts off it from cold every morning, and don't pull up at your destination and turn off the engine with the turbo still spinning down, you will be fine.

Theres a thought........Nice one! Will check and report back tomorrow. Cheers.

I know all about the targa drains, thanks to Jeff's recent post, but I have a question regards what I think is a drain tube on my slick top. I cut out a patch of rust from the outer sill just in front of the drivers side rear wheel/directly below the filler flap. I cut it out over sized so I can cut the bad parts off the inner sill, and do the welding, and what looks like a rusted drain tube fell out. I don't have pictures (can post tomorrow if required) but what I am trying to figure out is; 1/ Is it a drain tube? 2/ Does it serve a purpose on a slick top (to clear water from under the boot hatch or something) or is it a redundant part? 3/ Fabricating a replacement is easy if it is required, but where should it connect to? Cheers for any suggestions, Derek.

Here is the 2 pics combined, to make it easy for anyone who wants to facebook them...

I have just put the tags up on facebook, might have someone recognise them. If as many people here can get them up, and a picture of the bikes, maybe we can spread the word? Just a thought......

You are right there. I have lived in DE for 8 years and I have only seen 2 others, one in the yard of a shady turkish workshop, and one on an american army vase. I know there are a few lads up north with the mob got one too. Here is an idea on prices over here. Don't even think the last one is going to sell at that price - it has been on that site for sale for at least 4 years! Anyone wants to bring theirs here to put on german plates and sell? http://www.autoscout24.eu/List.aspx?vis=1&make=52&model=1898&pricefrom=1000&page=1&maxresults=500&results=20&ustate=N,U&um=True&sort=price&desc=1

Why would you expect it to overheat?:confused1: It wouldn't if the thermostat was stuck open. And as you increase road speed, the increased airflow through the rad and over the motor would cool at a faster rate (hence the temp drop) especially in the cold weather. When you slow down, the temparature would then rise back into the normal range. This is assuming the drop and rise happens over a minute or so, and isn't an instantaneous thing - in which case I would go for the dodgy connections.

Thermostat not closing?

And cute chick at that too!!:tongue_smilie:

I would recommend doing the whole system. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, and should be changed every 2 years under normal conditions. Fast road or track use would be more often. Also, the as pedal feel degrades over time, you probably won't be aware of how soggy your brakes actually feel right now, until you go ahead and flush and bleed your system.

You will have no issues finding work just now - there is loads about for you guys. If for any reason you get stuck, and would consider working on tracked or wheeled ground equipment, give me a shout. Money isn't as good as you would be used to though! Good luck, and congrats on the nipper....

Hi, and Welcome, Have a look at these - sorry for the size of the links, but I can't get on to a link shortening service on this computer. If you see anything that interests you, I feed it in to Google Translate for a rough idea of what it says. http://www.autoscout24.de/ListGN.aspx?vis=1&make=52&model=1898&pricefrom=1000&cy=D&page=1&maxresults=500&results=20&ustate=N,U&um=True&sort=price&zipc=D&tab=price http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/search.html?isSearchRequest=true&editSearch=&lang=en&export=ALSO_EXPORT&sortOption.sortOrder=ASCENDING&damageUnrepaired=ALSO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&sortOption.sortBy=searchNetGrossPrice&scopeId=C&makeModelVariant1.makeId=18700&makeModelVariant1.modelId=5&maxPrice=&minFirstRegistrationDate=&maxMileage=&fuels=&ambitCountry=&zipcode=

What line of work are you in? Always got openings, esp. in Germany. Kuwait is a bit harder, but can point you the right direction if you are interested?

Thats real nice. Better than my grey leather/tweed combo! I would be keeping that.....

That is real nice, looks pretty clean too. I am trying to get mine on the road this summer, then we could hold the smallest club meet ever! Haven't seen another Z32 down here in years. Which is kind of nice.....

On the stock NA rad, they are part of the plastic. On Dans (and I would assume most other after market rads) the are welded on. Like I said, I bought a TT rad, and used the old NA rad as a template to weld on new pins, as NA and TT rad mounts (both top and bottom) are different. Your old NA rad top brackets will not fit an aftermarket TT alloy rad.

Dunno about a kit, but the fit is different. On the TT rad, the lower mount "pins" are both on the outside edges of the radaitor, overhanging by about 1/2 inch. On the NA, they are placed closer to the middle. I got an ally rad from DTA, and just welded on 2 pins and kept the original pins in place too. Also, top mount plates are completely different, so any after market mounts will either need a fair bit of modification, or more than likely, built from scratch. Dan was doing a decent price on rads, give him a shout.

Depends on wear I am: Germany 0500 - alarm off 0600 - on the road 0645 - open workshops for 0700 start 0700 - deliver briefing to crews 0730 - maintenance meeting 0900 - cuppa / 15 mins. 1200 - lunch / 45 mins. 1300 - another meeting 1530 - finished, off home In between, finding time for safety inspections, quality inspections, and of course, the obligatory paper work. Kuwait 0400 - alarm destroyed 0430 - on the road 0530 - queueing for installation access checks 0600 - draw HMMWV for the day, and brief. 1200 - lunch / 30 mins. 1830 - dump truck and head for the gate 1900 - just got through outbound security, braving Kuwaiti traffic 2030 - home, and looooooong shower 2300 - bed Spending the days driving around an oversize parking lot in the desert, making sure the fleet is ready for issue. Some days busy, some manage to get a kip in the cab. Every day is hot &dusty but to be honest, isn't exactly hard work. I'm in Germany for the summer, so will be in a beer garden just in time for the office workers getting out in their skimpy wee outfits. WooHoo!!!!

Hi, Are you sure the disc isn't damaged? If you have the BIOS set to boot from disc, you should have no issues. You can burn an ISO of the disc, and install it via a memory stick. Have a read at this http://wudt.codeplex.com/ I haven't tried it on anything other than Win7, but have read that it works on other OSs.

Sorry, just seen this. Don't know if they are still open, but recommend Jim Harley, Cowlairs Road in Glasgow. (Springburn). Thats where I used to work. Started up their workshop for them many moons ago.

Just be careful that anything you use is not petroleum based. It will degrade the tarmac. You won't notice it right away, but it will. Problem with the oil is that it soaks in, you clean it, and next hot day, chances are the mark will be back. Gets some concentrated dish washing soap on it and leave it. Give it a week, and do it again, and rinse off with a boiled kettle, then plenty of water to rinse. Accept the fact that it is going to show up again when the sun comes out, and you will need to do it a few times. It will disappear over time.

Agreed, these are the best 2 to go for on L plates. Problem is cheap ones are risky, and decent examples are expensive for what they are. I was in the bike trade for 5 years (Paisley and Glasgow), and to be honest, don't see the advantages of going the route that has been suggested to you. Assuming you are over 21, I would suggest going Direct Access if funds allow. There are several reputable rider training firms out there that will do you DAS in 1 week, on their training fleet for around the 500 GBP mark. You will lose more than that in running a 125 for 6 months then reselling. You will also pick up all the bad habits while you are riding around on your L plates, and to be honest, we used to have a higher first time pass rate for candidates on DAS who were completely new to biking because of this. In my humble, the most cost effective, time efficient, and safest way to go is to go DAS. Who were you thinking of training with?

From description: "The interior lights are not guaranteed to work and it is recommended that the bulbs be replaced if used" As if that is the biggest problem you would be facing....... But on serious note, I hope that is just to keep the headliner in good condition. They aren't trying to sell on the actual roof are they?? Surely just a dumb description.

Yeah - What he said. I was too slow.