derek_g2001

Nobody called you a "retread", or implied that you were. The buying advice given above was meant as a general guide for anyone, I didn't intend it to seem directed at you alone. Same as the advice on complaint resolution. Peeps should lever the law as early as possible. Janus took the advice of folks very early when she had an issue with her SAAB and spoke with various consumer groups. I don't know what the outcome was, but she definitely has a very good chance of a proper resolution. What I was politely trying to say in a roundabout way is you went completely the wrong way about it with regards to continuing to drive the car, and paying out of pocket for investigation and repair of the diff. If you had followed the advice that is freely available all over the internet you would have most likely had your money back by now. As I have stated above, I agree that the heater issue should have been diagnosed by any competent mechanic. You think I am being pedantic - I think I am being accurate. But that's not what the argument is about, so let's not fight!

Nope. Never have been, never will. I despise the business model of most main dealer workshops. I do run a workshop with up to 70 mechanics for a huge company for a massive client. Lets call it fleet work... Most are not. OP seemed to be surprised at this, hence my questions. Very rarely are they worth the money. Yup - Law should have been first point of contact as soon as the problems came up and the dealer ignored her. Would be difficult to take that route now after the time that has passed and repairs have been done. Not at all. I fully support the OP, but I am also a realist. She went about things the wrong way for a successful win. Should they? Is it really their responsibility to repair after 6 months? By the OP's own admission, the rust wasn't there when the car was sold. Cars rust. Fords particularly bad. OP new this. They offered a halfway solution. Nonsense. First of all, in the words of Clarkson "How bad can it be?" If there was no sign at purchase, it cant be that bad now - unless there is some reason for the rusting to be accelerated, hence my questions regarding jet wash etc. Now read again what I wrote. "cut them back/rust stop/weld/filler/paint" Done properly by a pro, not as a DIY kerbside repair, it would be invisible. I bet most Zeds on here have had similar. Absolutely. We are working on the assumption that it wasn't an apprentice, desk jokey or otherwise a complete muppet. By the OP's own account, she told them it does it all the time, when it clearly doesn't. If it only does it when it is proper hot, she should have told them that. They need to go sit in traffic or for a proper drive. Never going to achieve the conditions sat idling in a car park. I agree completely. OP was told "they all sound like that" when the car was bought. The correct thing to do would have been to refuse the car and insist on a repair or return. By driving 3000 miles, it could be argued that was a sign of acceptance of the vehicle, and could have contributed to the failure. Shady under the arches garages - yes Main dealers - yes They are both the same unfortunately. Profit by volume. The only difference is dealers dress better. I always recommend using small independent workshops that don't have a huge interest in car sales and maintenance is their number 1 priority, where the owner is usually the guy fixing your car. These places rely on a good reputation, good first time fix rate, repeat business, and building a personal relationship with their customers. (Coincidentally, the sort of business model that one of the more successful traders on here employs.) Agreed. Also recommend consulting with the CAB, Trading Standards, the Institute of the Motor Industry, the dealers particular House Marque, and any other professional bodies and schemes that they claim to be a member of. But do it in a timely fashion, in accordance with published consumer guidelines. Sometimes that is the only effective way to get the desired result. Reading your website, it just seemed like you were offended that they charged. Bear in mind that although they fly the Ford flag as part of the dealer network, they are nothing to do with the original dealer. If you are happy with their service, why are the named on your list of complaints? OP, please don't think I am getting on at you. I fully agree you have been wronged, and that the dealer should take some responsibility. To be clear, IMHO, they should have carried the can for the heater valve and the diff. The rust - not so much. You would have stood a better chance had you followed all the advice given to consumers regarding disputes in a timely fashion. For some reason you seem to have ignored the freely available good advice, and time is now against you. When buying used vehicles, always do the following; 1/ Have an independent inspection. By that, i mean AA, RAC, proper trusted mechanic, or similar. Not a mate that knows a bit about cars. 2/ HPI check, check all docs, paperwork, service history, old MOTs etc. 3/ Test drive. If in any doubt whatsoever, walk away. There are loads of cars to choose from out there. 4/ Never buy on impulse. Take your time, sleep on the decision. If the sales staff are being overbearing, walk away. 5/ In the case of any disputes, take it to the Dealer Principle straight away. Salesmen won't help. Service department cant help. If that doesn't work, straight to CAB.

Bad customer service for sure. No denying that. The law is a minefield on this. Have you been to the CAB? You would expect a "good faith" solution out most places, at least on the diff, but that doesn't look like an option. I don't know if your approach will work, better to try working with Consumer Laws IMHO. I do think you expect too much from the warranty, you should be concentrating on your statutory rights instead. Did you read the warranty before you bought the car? You said it was a factor in your purchasing decision, so does it actually cover the faults that you expect to be fixed under it? Did someone inspect the car before you bought it? The rust sucks, but unfortunately a common problem. You acknowledge this by saying you rejected similar cars for the same. It wasn't obvious when you bought the car. How bad is it? How far do you expect a workshop to strip a car to check it before sale? It's not usual to strip wheel arch linings to check the inside of panels. Has someone been blasting the wheel arches with a pressure washer? Common cause. I suspect you won't get anywhere with that. Cheapest repair would be to cut them back/rust stop/weld/filler/paint. Couple of hundred £ for a decent job, will not last forever. You repeatedly mention the heater blows hot air all the time, which by definition of how it works (and your own experience) cannot be the case. It can only blow hot air when the coolant is hot. The fault only appears when car is fully up to temp. Looks like the checked it without getting the car proper hot. Points to a lack of abilities & knowledge on whoever they sent to check it. Go back and accurately describe the problem, see if that helps. Make sure they drive the car to get it under load and proper hot. You would expect them to have done this first time around, but if they are muppets, they probably haven't. The gearbox is the tricky one. Up to 6 months, they need to show it wasn't faulty at time of sale. After 6 months, you need to show that it was. If you have had it 6 months, and done 3000 miles, that will be a hard one to prove, especially now the gearbox has been stripped down by a third party, and you have then paid out your own pocket to fit a recon box. I'm not sure what your problem with the 2nd place is. You asked them to investigate, they did, they billed. They have advised you that they feel you shouldn't drive it. Whats the problem? I suspect if they hadn't returned a verdict of wear & tear, you would have been happy with the service provided... Your first port of call should have been CAB.

1) It doesn't have to be, but recommended. As Groover said, all about constant flow and pressure. It will also run air tools properly, and more than likely last longer than the cheapo ones out there. The one you linked to said it itself; "occasional load". Look on it as an investment. Consider decent 2nd hand. 2) Essentially, yes. Mixing cups have already been mentioned a few times, strongly advised you buy a few. Pennies each. You can get disposable wooden stirrers, I have an old stainless steel rule that I use. Paint will often have the ratio marked on the tin. It is even easier if you use waterbased paint. More eco friendly too. 3) Many places - as I mentioned before, look for eBay stores run by actual paint shops as a starting point. If there is a decent shop near you, why not buy there - then they are there to help, give advice, answer questions etc. Don't avoid one if it is just because you are unsure. Best way to learn. 4) Have you checked out the website I linked to? Loads of advice, hints & tips there.

Can't figure out why you would do that to the rear wheels on the Zed? As long as your happy!

It's definitely worth spending a bit more on a decent compressor that can run air tools like an impact gun - you will get more use and longevity out of a decent one. If you look down the bottom of the ad..... Specifications: Duty: occasional load Compressors are something that you really do get what you pay for, and to be honest, that looks a bit chocolate... a bit more geared towards blowing up bike tyres and airbeds. Better to rent or borrow than buy at that price if you only want it for one job. Also, don't forget a water separator.

Are your shocks good? If the left one is buggered and the wheel is constantly skipping.....?

Understood completely. Take the EM3 code into a paint shop, ask to stick it in the machine and see what colour it gives out. Might be what you need.... Hold on a mo - just checked all Nissan yellows again. There is an EH3 "dark yellow". Here is a list of every Nissan (all models / all years) that is in the system for the colour group yellow. 804 + 805 987 1988-1988 NISSAN BEIGE 10014 1993-1993 NISSAN BEIGE 10008 1993-1993 NISSAN BEIGE MET 117 1981-1981 NISSAN BUTTER YELLOW 119 1982-1989 NISSAN CALIFORNIA YELLOW 910 1970-1971 NISSAN COPPER MET 629 1979-1980 NISSAN CORN YELLOW D32 2002-2002 NISSAN CORN YELLOW Z37 2003-2011 NISSAN CREAM 685 1978-1979 NISSAN DARK BEIGE 535 1970-1970 NISSAN DARK YELLOW E01-51 1999-2000 NISSAN DARK YELLOW EH3 1989-1996 NISSAN DESERT YELLOW 804 1980-1985 NISSAN FUN YELLOW E10 2003-2006 NISSAN FUN YELLOW MAT E10 2004-2006 NISSAN GREYISH YELLOW 339 1984-1987 NISSAN IMPULSE YELLOW EV2 1999-2002 NISSAN IVORY 056 1985-1985 NISSAN IVORY 637 1969-1981 NISSAN LE MANS YELLOW 919 1970-1971 NISSAN LEMON 224 1973-1977 NISSAN LEMON YELLOW 179 1973-1973 NISSAN LEMON YELLOW 396 2002-2002 NISSAN LEMON YELLOW Z53 2003-2011 NISSAN LIGHT GOLD PEARL 042 1985-1992 NISSAN LIGHT GREYISH YELLOW PEARL MET EM1 1993-1999 NISSAN LIGHT LEAF 945 1971-1973 NISSAN LIGHT YELLOW E41 2005-2010 NISSAN LIGHT YELLOW EH2 1993-1999 NISSAN LIGHT YELLOW EW2 1999-2006 NISSAN LIME 650 1979-1979 NISSAN MELLOW YELLOW 102 1972-1977 NISSAN MOONSTONE YELLOW 433 1968-1969 NISSAN NEW ORANGE 008 E14YE008 2000-2000 NISSAN OCHRE 022 1972-1975 NISSAN OCHRE 967 1971-1972 NISSAN ORANGE 419 1978-2005 NISSAN PUMPKIN YELLOW 702 1988-1992 NISSAN SKYLINE YELLOW 950 1971-1972 NISSAN SOLAR YELLOW EW3 2000-2009 NISSAN SUN YELLOW MET D30 M9263 2005-2005 NISSAN SUNKIST YELLOW 665 1968-1973 NISSAN SUNSHINE YELLOW 016 1982-1986 NISSAN SUNSHINE YELLOW 019 1972-1975 NISSAN TAXI YELLOW 019 1995-1995 NISSAN TITANIA YELLOW 633 1968-1969 NISSAN TROPIC TAN 130 1983-1986 NISSAN URBAN YELLOW 964 1971-1972 NISSAN YELLOW 019

I checked all the available 300ZX colour codes, and that one is not listed on the computer for some reason :headvswal Deffo a job for the dealer or a colour test at a paint shop. I even searched across the whole Nissan fleet, and that code doesn't show on any. Is it a special / one off by Nissan?

A fantastic set of budget guns - http://goo.gl/tuQTK

I can't recommend this forum enough to people - it is a very good starting point. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/spray-painting.htm Only down side is it is primarily geared towards Cellulose and 2K - it doesn't cover water based, and IMHO, that is the way to go. The principles are similar, and the prep guide is the same. He does make it seem a bit of a science though, when it really is an art. Once you have done a few jobs, it really is all about the "feel".

Yes - Take your time and accept that you will make a few mistakes. They can be sorted later. Take the time to prep properly. It's 90% prep. I use water based colour coat, and they mostly come ready to spray over here. Advantage is if you don't like it, or make an ar5e of it, it'll come off with a garden hose. Clear coat I use is 3:1 or 2:1 with 10-20% thinners, depending on the brand. Don't stress this part. You can use a mixing cup to get the ratios spot on. eBay is a good source, as long as you are using a store run by an actual paint shop. It makes it easier to compare prices. Primer - 10 p/ltr (and you don't always need to prime the whole car) Paint - 40 p/ltr (need 5-7 ltr of water based for a complete change) Clear coat - 10 p/ltr (2 litres should be enough) Thinners - 10 p/ltr (3 ltr gives you enough for cleaning guns, panel wipe etc) Mixing cups - 1 gets you 5ish Strainers - 1 gets you 10ish Tack rags - 10 gets you 5ish Spray gun - varies (good 2nd hand deals, or cheaper new) Compressor - don't skimp on this. better to borrow or hire a decent (oil-less!) one than to buy a cheaper sh1t one. make sure it has a water trap too, and non-silicone air hoses. A few places will do you "kits" ie all the primer/paint/clear coat/thinners/hardener etc as a deal. Good value. Take your time and do your research. Accept that you will not get a paint booth finish, and you will most likely need to break out the 2000 grit and polish at the end. Definitely worth the effort of learning.

Does the EH7 get you the pearl then? Its the only one listed on the computer - I hoped it was the colour coat code, never mind. Sorry I can't be of more help.

Bare in mind, it doesn't necessarily mean that yours has been resprayed with the Nissan colour. If in doubt, take a sample (like the headlight panel) to a decent paint shop and they can match it for you.

+1 on Yowser. I just checked, and there is 3 codes shown for black. BLACK PEARL MET (US = Diamond black pearl) 732 1988-1996 MIDNIGHT BLACK (US = Onyx) GL1 1992-1995 SUPER BLACK (US = Ebony) KH3 1989-2012

But remember that is proper paint codes. If you are just looking for touch up, then the code will most likely be different.

I just checked what is listed for your motor, all the info I have is YELLOW PEARL EH7 It doesn't list a separate base or effect coat, I would assume that is the colour coat they list. Maybe worth getting 1/2 litre mixed up and do a spray test.

But it does fit your colour brief.... grey/blue/pearl :tt2: I realized when I posted a colour thread that everyone (including me!) takes inspiration from other cars, which meant the colour had already been done. To be original, I had to look elsewhere, look outside the box, so to speak.....

Teal?

Where do you want to go in relation to those examples? More grey, more blue? TVR is nice.

I used to go through bouts a few years ago, not had it for about 5 years now, so quite lucky. It might have been in my head, but drinking Gatorade or similar used to help. Would come on real bad if I wasn't drinking enough water - especially in 50 degree heat. Really feel for you - it's seen as one of those comedy ailments that folks who have never had it like to chuckle about, but it is the 3rd worst pain I have ever had in my life. Hope you get sorted soon.

Can't believe they would do it to anyone! Although to be honest, AC has always had a bit of a gash rep in the trade. They are only just a step up from Kwik Fit in terms of being a career choice for most decent mechs. They keep their costs down by hiring loads of YT type apprentices, give them sod all training and leave them too it. Huge volume through the shop doesn't help either. Hope you get it sorted.

That changes things entirely. Tell them that you are considering reporting them to (insert whatever trade associations they are members of here) as well as trading standards etc. Tell them you want repair of all faults and damage, courtesy car, loss of any wages etc, and at the very least, a refund on the cost of service. I missed your update while I was typing my reply!

Pay the service desk a visit. DON'T tell them about the accident straight away. Tell them that your car was in for MOT and ask them what that would involve with regards to any pre-test inspections, adjustments, or anything else. It is common for dealers to have an apprentice look round the car before the actual test, looking for billable faults to turn a bit of coin. This may or may not involve removing wheels to check brakes. If they have done anything, ask for a copy of the job card "for your records". Also, you need to clarify the following; 1/ What was the actual job booked in? (i.e. MOT test, Pre-MOT inspection & Test etc.) 2/ What was actually carried out, if different from #1? Play daft. Make them think you are just being overly anal about the maintenance records - you want as much info (evidence?) as possible about what they have done before you reveal your true agenda. Once you have as much as you can get, ask to speak with the service manager, and politely explain your situation. Don't go on the attack. Just be firm. I'm betting they won't admit liability, but they will offer to fix it "as a sign of goodwill", which will be an attempt to keep their nose clean. It won't actually cost them anything, as it will be covered by their insurance, and it will save on any bad publicity. Just make sure you get a courtesy car out of them. If they don't, then it is on you to prove it was their fault. You are very likely to win, especially if you can prove they had the wheels off. It would be difficult to prove the tester at fault. As stated in prior posts, checking wheel nut tightness is not part of the test. If they were off before the test for a check, and only ran up, then it is highly likely that there was no play at the time of test, which is all that matters in the eyes of VOSA and the law. It would be easier to demonstrate bad workmanship if there was a record of them carrying out work that involved removing the wheel. If there is no records, and they deny they were in there and don't want to fix it, then you would probably loose any claim, then it is down to you to claim on your own insurance.

Big picture = Yes Little one = No