JeffTT

The cruise control connectors and the horn push share actual cables ( yes mad I know). The connector from the cruise button clips into the large white/ black assembly behind the wheel, this also does the hicas angle sensing, maybe this assembly has been removed ?? failing that the cable looms run down the steering column and terminate about half way down, find the horn one and thats the one you want. Will take a photo for you tomorrow and mark out which is is and pm it back to you. Cheers Jeff

Nothing, its a taper fit so will seal ok. Jeff TT

Too late for bobbyfame now but a message for all, if you find yourself in the unfortunate position of your car been wreaked ALWAYS have it recovered to home never let it go to a holding yard or similar, often the storage cost can tip the insurance figure over the edge and then write off, I for one would NEVER loose sight of the car, what ever happens after this at least you have retained ownership. Jeff TT

d2 in kent. Aghhhh beat me to it! Jeff TT

A small volt tester can be used to see what the battery voltage is with the engine running, depending upon battery state the voltage should read anywhere between 13.0 and 14.5 volts anything less than 13 volts would point to an alternator / charging fault. Jeff TT

Understanding battery charging, discharging, float charging, and deep cycling would be a lengthy proccess so will not go into it fully here except surfice to say a completely discharged battery will NOT fully charge in 20 hours with a normal diy charger, all you get is a plate surface float charge,. When the battery was new it was deep cycle charged which is a process of charging and discharging which then gives it a strong chemical basis from where it can now charge and discharge without damaging cells, once this deep charge is lost usually from letting the battery go completely dead any further charging from diy charges will just not cut it and in time actually harms the battery and ultimately kills individial cells. There are some much better electronic conditioning chargers on the market that use electronic switching and internal resistance to mimic deep charging but as they tend to be more expensive are often overlooked but given the cost of replaceing batteries over your lifetime ownership of cars the conditioning charger makes more sense. All of the above relies on the fact the battery is in good order and the plates are not sulphated and there are no dead cells, of course if there is then nothing will make the battery work correctly again and its time for a new one. Of course there could be an issue with your car such as current drain on a circuit, faulty earths, faulty alternator and all of these need checking first, assuming all is ok then a good way to check the battery is to charge it the best you can and NOT refit to the car for at least a week and then refit it and see if is dead or alive, a dead battery will mean it cannot hold charge a battery that starts the car could be saved by the aformentioned charger Jeff TT

Easy fix, the tailgate lock requires pulling down a little to put some pre-load on the boot so that it springs up when released. Open the boot up ( if you can, lol ) undo the centre section behind the 300zx panel, just two plastic hand turn screws. Push it back and it will reveal the lock /catch assembly, undo the three 10mm bolts a little and then tap the lock downwards a small way and then do up the bolts again. Fit the boot panel again and close the lid, now when you pull the lever the boot will pop up. Hope that helps Jeff TT

Wiper motor has an extra circuit built in to it that uses a limit switch and that deals with the parking mode. It is possible to remove the motor and clean the small track contact area but often quicker just to refit a new motor. Jeff TT

Do you have a turbo timer by any chance? seen this before where the timer is wired into the handbrake switch ( which brings on the same light) and a fault inside the timer causes this, if not check the connector plugged into the side of the brake master cylinder maybe a bad connection. Jeff TT

Yes it not too bad, the left hand ( passenger side ) is easy just undo the two bolts holding the clamping bracket and release the old bush and replace. the right hand one is a little harder as the once the clamping bracket is undone the bush is still semi captive and often fall to bits when removing it. Replaceing the new one is easier with lots of WD40, the original Nissan bushes are easier to fit than after market ones as they are more flexiable the bushes are around £15 each Jeff TT

No afraid not, however a used barrel can be disassembled for the part you need and thus retaing your own key. Will check in the morning as I am sure we will have some old barrels you can play with, you more than welcome to have one, pm me your postal addy. Jeff

Part of the door barrel. Jeff

Sloppy and imprecise steering is just horrible, there are many factors that need to be looked if your zeds not going well in the pointing department, tyres , tyre pressures, tension road bushes, steering arms, steering knuckles, etc. etc. But oddly one area that often gets overlooked is the steering rack bushes, these two rather large rubber sleeves keep the steering rack in position laterally. Check out the photo's below see the state of the two bushes in particular the right hand one which was completely useless, in the next photo you can see the amount of insecure movement of the rack due to the worn bush, basically when turning at a junction the rack was able to move almost 30mm BEFORE any wheel angle changes started this translated to a frightening ¾ turn of the steering wheel. You can guess my surprise when road testing and encountering my first island! of course a couple of bushes and all was well again, interesingly the car came in for unrelated work!! just shows what you can get used to over a period of time. Jeff TT

Yes very good point, the rain water can wash over the battery and this then drips down as weak acid, in fact could be a potential cause of failing batteries if the cell caps are not water tight. Jeff TT

Thanks son:D

Rotten battery tray replacement part three So now a bit of preparation of the new tray, here a wire brush in a grinder was used but a hand wire brush would work also. Here the tray is all clean and ready to be painted. The undertray / inner wing section needed a coat of protection paint Fitting the tray is straight forward, bolt in the two main bolts and with it sitting in place drill two further fixings and fit using two 10 mm self tapers using half penny washers, we tacked the tray also as we had the equipement to hand however an extra two drilled fixings would be more than adaquate as the tray is not structural and sits on an elevated parts of the inner wings. Just as a reminder to what it looked like with out scrolling back here is again Have seen a few of these now and its NOT just a UK zed thing, in fact the deep corrossion is due to battery ACID corrosion and this can happen any time. My advise would be to check your battery tray, many will be in perfect order no doubt but then so many seem to have had similar issue its got to be worth checking. Jeff TT

Rotten battery tray replacement part two So now that is done we need to get a donor part, here is the donor part a little bit of surface rust but nothing bad. Bolts removed After the bolts are undone the spot welds can be split apart, here I used an air chisel for speed but a cold chisel and hammer would work also. Finally the tray is free to pull up and remove from the donor car.

Rotten battery tray replacement part one Ok removal of the tray is quite simple, a couple of 12mm bolts and a few spot welds secure it in place, however this tray was in such bad condition it needed to be removed in bits, the air grinder helped but it could be done by hand with a combination of metal shears and and small saw. Once the tray is fully removed the lower inner wing section is revealed, even this needs some work. The inner wing section is shown cleaned down with a wire brush in the air drill, however a hand wire brush would do it to Here is what was left of the old tray.

Will have a look for you tomorrow and post back. Jeff TT

In general the lower priced bypass units do use the hicas arms and the outer bushes so if they are worn out you still need them replacing as well as fitting the bypass unit, so not very cost effective. Jeff TT

:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: mate you killing me stop it!! PM me your postal adress and will send one out Jeff

Seen a few things but this even surprised us last week, the near side tension rod arm is two half's welded together, who, what and why is a puzzle as the zed has a recent new owner, but worse still the two half's where slightly longer than a standard one so that side of the car had around 20mm set back on that wheel?? a good used replacement rod sorted it and the set back out, had to re-track it but after that all was good ..... odd :confused: Jeff T

Hey up Cyrus, dont worry, as said by Atlas most likely oily hands on the exhaust etc, the later non starting sounds like the imobiliser, as your close by will can come to you tomorrow and sort it for you no problems, ( have pmed time / arrangements ) Cheers Jeff

Hey up Cyrus, dont worry, as said by Atlas most likely oily hands on the exhaust etc, the later non starting sounds like the imobiliser, as your close by will can come to you tomorrow and sort it for you no problems, ( have pmed time / arrangements ) Cheers Jeff

Tps ( throttle position sensor ) can cause the 1st to 2nd gear issue, most likely needs adjusting, see if anyone in your area has a ConZult as thats the easiest way to set it up. Jeff TT