JeffTT

Check the micro switch on the accelerator pedal, with engine off press the pedal down and listen for a click sound when the pedal is down, the bracket that holds it is quite weak and can be bent out of shape. Even if you do get a click bend the bracket up slightly so the switch activates sooner. Jeff TT

With no 12v power at the injectors any neg signals from the ecu are not going to work, so we need to find where the power supply has failed, this is a battery feed supply and is live all the time so a single fail point is causing all of the injectors to not work. Fuses are located in the supply and these would be the next thing to check, if the fuse is ok then the fuse input supply requires tracing etc. You could always run a tempory feed to one of the injectors and it will automatically link to the other 5, be careful to not mix the 12v + and earth as the ecu will not like that! Seriously I think you have just a niggly issue that has you all frustrated and sometimes its best to take a chill and start at the begining, it will be worth it in the end. Jeff TT

The ecu send an engine position signal that the ecu interperates, it send the signals to the ptu ( ignition ) and the injectors. Hence it would appear that the cas is ok as your getting spark. Jeff TT

As Damo_j said call zedworld, (me) then get subscribed for even better deals. Jeff TT

Buy a set of plugs and get the coil pack for free. Jeff TT

Yes it was James, need quick word, will try and call you tomorrow. Cheers Matey. Jeff TT

This is what you need, your local motor factors or Halfords should have one. Jeff TT

As yours is an import it is the POWER light you watch the AT is for UK cars, the fault code is for throttle position sensor, this is the cause of the odd gear change and high idle. The hard idle signal is lost, normally when about to pull away and the throttle starts to open, the hard idle switch advances the timing to prevent stalling, this also raises the revs. This is why you have a high tickover and without the hard idle reference the auto box cannot see closed throttle so has no start reference through the tps range and hence odd gearchanging, assuming all connections cables and settings are ok then it needs replacing. Hope that helps Jeff TT

Try an autobox diagnostic, follow the link below. http://www.zedworld.co.uk/wizzj.html#auto_box Post any results Jeff TT

No worries, used that method myself a few times.:) Jeff TT

Bonnet cricket. :D:D

I was there :dance: Jeff TT

Sadly your correct it has taken its toll that`s for sure, it coming back in a few months time for a more extensive strip down and rebuilt properly with the corrosion issues been dealt with ( as best as can be) so a bit more life can be persuaded out of it. Jeff TT

Pics continued

Non turbo accident repair. Ok little story for you here, roll the clock back 3 years and unfortunately this non turbo suffered a heavy front and side impact into a small river!! however it was subsequently repaired by the insurance at their approved bodyshop. Following this the car ran very uneven, with very low performance and heavy fuel use, starting and other issues forced a disappointed owner into garaging the car for 3 years. After contacting a Nissan dealer who gave him our contact number it came to our workshop on a trailer. The twin turbo front bumper although not normally an issue tells the beginning of this sad story, the back of the bumper been a different colour which of course points to it been second hand ( approved insurance bodyshop?) Take a look at the photo`s, a catalogue of missing and wrongly fitted parts all added up to make not only a poor job but an engine with no chance of running correctly. Lower down you can see that even the front slam panel was twin turbo, the radiator brackets are in the wrong place and are pressing down on the plastic radiator header. All the repair had been done using second hand twin turbo parts and where these did not match they were just left off!! as you can see not one single wheel arch or undertray refitted so all the underneath and inner wings completely exposed to road water etc. Also nothing had been done to address the issues with the corrosion caused by the car been immersed in water, the sump damage, the exhaust holes or even the seized calipers and worn discs. A day or so of replacing missing parts and fixing other issues plus a good setting up had the zed in tip top running again, one MOT later and a very happy customer! now the real rub, the invoice for the original bad job.................................£7k yes seven thousand pounds and the garage that did the job....... A NISSAN DEALER! Enjoy the pics, check next post for more. Jeff TT

Possible connection between the two symptoms, the tps hard idle switch if a bad connection will raise the revs and the autobox ecu will see the tps fault and flash a code whilst the gearchange will be effected too. Check the forward most connection on the tps by removing cleaning with WD40 or similar and recoonecting see of the revs go down, if they do leave the battery disconnected for a couple of hours to reset the gearbox ecu. Try that and see how you get on, post up the results in case you need more help. Jeff TT

Ok recircs what are they and what do they do? do bovs ( dump valves ) do a better job? and what goes wrong when recircs go bad? The basic premise of the recirc or bov is to release built up pressure when the throttle butterflies slam shut because if you do not do that, the returning pressure wave can damage the turbo`s. Recircs ( see pic below ) operate by been piped either side of the turbo or in simple terms form a regulated short cut from the turbo output back to the turbo input. Here I have removed the lid of the recirc to reveal the diaphragm that rises and falls by the vacuum generated within the intake( plenum ) the diaphragm then acts upon the spring loaded plunger which itself is connected to the valve disc, this is positioned so that the in and out ports can be opened ( when throttle closed ) or closed fully ( when on the gas). The top and spacer ring removed in the next photo reveals the diaphragm rubber seal, this isolates ( seals ) the top section from the bottom and means the vacuum will draw the diaphragm up and pull the plunger rod etc. In the next photo the plunger is held up to show the lift angle and the plunger rod below. By cutting off the lower section elbow it is possible to see the actual valve which is connected to the plunger rod and moved by the actuator diaphragm. In the next photo the rod is been held in the full lift ( high vacuum, over run etc. ) the valve disc can be seen open. Finally cutting the side out reveals all of the above in one go and allows a clearer understanding of what is happening. The recircs as mentioned have a slam spring which has a pre-load effect upon the valve, however the vacuum produced at tick over lifts the valve and for this reason this kind of unit cannot be used to dump to atmosphere as it would be the cause of a big air leak and not forgetting the zed is equipped with an air flow meter this would cause fuelling errors too, this is where piston type bovs ( dump valves ) are required as they do not lift at soft idle conditions. Bovs have a place on big bhp engines but a recirc in good condition will keep all pressure and air read by the air flow meter INSIDE the engine pipe work, bovs let it out so by their design cause momentary fuelling errors. Recircs do have their problems however, in the main due to wear and tear, the slam spring becomes weakened and results in very early lift of the valve. Now this in its first stages will not be that noticeable but as it worsens will mean the valve is leaking ( recircing ) turbo boost not to atmosphere but back to the front of the turbo, now of course this will mean no signs of this will be particular noticeable, BUT slowly you will start to get increased turbo lag as the turbo rise pressure takes longer to attain, eventually and seen many times even making standard boost can be an issue, most owners think their zed is in safety boost and although this can feel similar it is actually much worse and harder to find and prove if you don't know how and because they recirc back into the pipework a boost leak check will not even show a problem. Professional inspection and testing is the safest way as the easiest method to check if they have failed involves very controlled road testing with the turbo wastegate actuators disconnected to measure unregulated boost rise against revs and road speed, a very keen eye is required to not major over boost if the recircs are ok. Hope that helps with a little insight into the original question of what they are and what they do. Jeff TT

Easiest way to fix is to use windows own restore follow the text below to do this. Jeff TT 1. Restore to earlier time Choose Start > All Programs > Accessories > System Tools > System Restore then select the option that’s marked ‘Restore my computer to an earlier time’. This enables you to roll back your system to any of the previously created restore points. 2. Restore point By default, the last created restore point is selected. However, you can opt to go back several days or more if you like. The calendar displays all the dates that have restore points in bold, and you may be able to go back a month or two depending on the drive space allocated. 3. Earlier date Select one of the bold dates on the calendar and you’ll see each available restore point for that day. Automatic restore points are often created when you install software or at any other key change to the system. Select a restore point and click Next. 4. Restore summary The next screen shows you a summary of the action that System Restore is going to have to take to roll your system back. Before proceeding, you should ensure that you’ve closed any other open windows or processes. Click Next to continue. 5. Restart computer In order to roll your system back, Windows needs to restart. As your computer shuts down, you’ll see a progress indicator showing the drives being returned to their earlier states. When this completes, Windows will close and start again. 6. Restore complete If your drive has been successfully rolled back, you’ll be shown a success message and a summary of the restore point that was used. It is possible to subsequently undo this restoration if it doesn’t fix your problem. Click OK to return to Windows.

This is what you want. http://www.extremestyling.com/Polarg-H3-55W-Pure-Yellow-Headlight/M/B001GNL2ZM.htm?traffic_src=GB&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=GB&id=uk Hope that helps, Jeff TT

Just to clear that up you had Jap spec plugs they are standard fit for both twin turbo and non turbo, almost all imports will have them fitted, just a good idea to fit UK spec ones to suit UK running conditions. Thanks matey Jeff TT

Oh erm dont know what happened there? :headvswal Jeff TT

Thought for a moment that was SWZ customer car park :rofl::rofl::rofl:

There is the clue to your problem the PFR6B-11C plug comes preset to the correct gap ( the last two digits of the part number) if you changed them you either made a mistake ( sorry if that sounds rude) and closed them down too much or they where damaged in transit, in nearly 10 years of fitting that very same plug type I have never had to adjust any ever. Also for general info PFR6B-11C plug is standard plug for UK spec zeds PFR6B-11 plug is for standard Jap spec zeds ( twin and non turbo ) PFR6B-11B plug is standard US plug When imported into the UK the Jap spec plugs will work ok but it is advisable to change them to the UK spec ones as these work best with UK fuel and running conditions. The US plug is often used as an "upgrade" for zeds running extra power and is deemed safer by many owners and sellers, I for one have not seen any clear evidence of this either way so cannot comment except to say the US running conditions and fuel is very different to the UK and it may be just be good luck they work out that way and not by design. Iridium plugs Avoid at all costs, hopelessly inefficient in the zed engine, designed to work with smaller high reving engines, they cause tick over issues and have hopless self cleaning properties, now this I have seen many times. It is often possible to detect from the sound and nature of an uneven tickover without even lifting the bonnet to know iridium plugs are fitted. UK spec plugs are the best ones in my opinion and never give problems in normal service so to have a problem when first fitted is either a coincidence of disturbing connections to injectors/ coil packs etc. or you adjusted the plugs wrongly. Good luck at sorting it out matey. Jeff TT Jeff TT

Check the "engine cont" fuse in the big large relay/ fuse box under bonnet front passenger wing.Even if it looks ok change it with another one in the box to be sure. Jeff TT

Under the bonnet next to the brake master cylinder slim black box, green fuse second in from the engine marked up power seats and windows. Jeff TT