jock

Originally Posted by pete shrimp LOL I remember last year getting there for around 8:30 and seeing loads of people rolling around in the mud, couldn't wait to get in there You definately going now Eh James?

Yes but the mitsi version is 18 ex vat

280mm for the front, 297mm for the rear

Yes been looking at one of those for a while, only 14k for the base model :)

Nice that your car will be there mate, looking forward to seeing your flip paintjob in the flesh :)

Well dont look like I will be last as I have a long day sorting out my zed tomorrow. :) Bummer on the coolant Dave :(

very quick for this time of the morning dave.lol. you going up to billing by the way?

If you felt someone trying to slip one in bud, it sure as fook wasnt me :)

:)

Paul's guy did my NA and did a spakling job, was well chuffed, even taking into account the talc :D

Can see that conversation: As your being a bit slow at dropping the baby, I am just going to pop up to billing with the lads for the day/weekend lmfao

The bolts are accessible, you can unbolt the torque converter and yes, leave the gearbox in :)

rich 190 at the wheels is pretty good mate, the NA was only meant to be 220 at the crank when brand new. Speak to chrissy c about the NA headers ;)

got my keyring and stickers today, thanks ajay :)

looks good bud. Who did the stitching for you?

When you say the fan, are you talking about the electric fan which is mounted on the front of the air con condenser (not the rad)? If it is the air con condenser, you wont get any movement on that, and if you try to force it, you may burst the pipes which is a bad thing :( If it is the viscous fan you are talking about and the radiator, you can lift the rad off its bottom mountings (lift it up about 1/2 inch) andf that wil give you a little play but not much as the hoses restrict it and the air con condenser sits directly behind it (about an inch at most). HTH

If you know someone with a conzult you can reset the ecu with that, also there is a post on TT net regarding this, IIRC the gist is that the time you leave the battery unconnected is to allow any spurious charge left in the system (i presume there are capacitors somewhere in the system that may store a charge) their solution was to disconnect the battery and put your foot on the brake, thus using the brakelight system to dispel the charge and remove the need to leave it for a long time( they recommend 20 mins after pressing the brake pedal for a couple of mins). Might be a load of bunkum, personally I would go with the conzult

In a lot of cases what the "speedo conversion" does is rob one in three of the signals to the speedo/ecu hence converting the signal to mph and fooling the ecu chip that you are doing 2/3 of the speed you actually are, "raising" the speed limiter. It is possible that the speedo conversion has an intermitent fault as they are prone to do, which would cause your spurious speedo reading. Do you know where the wiring for the speedo conversion is? if so can you remove it ?this will put you back to restricted and km/h, but will tell you whether the conversion is causing your problem.

I have owned an NA and a TT, both have positives and negatives, The NA is an easier car to drive to its limit, and IMHO is an easier car to live with as a daily driver, they sound better and is predictable in their power, and are easier to maintain, tho some parts are not readily available and the bling is limited, but they are in my experience more reliable. Of course (unless you mod its t1ts off) it will not match the power of a TT, which is certainly addictive and if you are doing your travel on empty roads where you can use the power the TT is your choice, they are more complicated (harder to maintain), there is loads of spares and modding kits available. They also have been quite often thrashed, modded (not always expertly) and when something does go wrong it is quite often major hence expensive. For my money I would have an NA as a daily driver and a TT for thrashing.

As far as I am aware the only difference in any of the zed brakes is that the NA version has slightly thinner disks on the front. I have never heard of a difference between the alloy and cast callipers or the brake disks associated with them, so think you should be fine. As always, I stand to be corrected :)

bummer mate. if you need anything brought back, give me a shout, tho probably people closer

Thats a very cynical view Matty :rolleyes: :tongue:

so you want a man tied down and bent over at billing james?? I didnt think i would say this , but i hope you voted for stuart :)

Size doesn't matter - presume that applies to string :)

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