jock

As spotted at a recent south east meet, you got to love him :rolleyes:

think the gunmetal grey would have been cybernet, if it had a 99 front end and some bling wheels

Paid 500 quid for my NA, paid 5k for my TT

in my hunble experience, you need to drop a cat clean out, and then drop the full exhaust system ( which means you need the car up in the air a fair bit, both ends) then remove the heatsheild, the centre bearing bolts, then the prop bolts. But, and its a biggy, if your exhaust bolts are rusted/ rounded/ fooked, it'll take ages. HTH

I Just bought a new oil sender and, if your mechanically minded, you can take off the existing oil sender and tap the hole out, you can screw the new sender into the same hole. I believe that people have had problems using the 10 mm nut method as the new sender clashes with the steering rack(?). With the water temp sender, you can either buy one of smithy's pipes or if your cheap (like me) take the existing pipe off, take the old sender out , run a thick drill down the hole ( there is a restriction at the bottom which stops the new sensors fitting through, and the original thread is too big anyway) this allows you to drop the sender right in until the nut stops it, bond it in place with some epoxy or plastic metal. HTH :)

Be aware that there is an interior and exterior knuckle and both can wear (one on each end of each arm)

Id worry more about a bird that buys perfume from there, than kids nicking my valve caps. Youd prob be safer drinking it than putting it on your skin :)

dont know about the sizes bud, but fitted a fair few of smithys hoses and never found an issue. The rad ends are slightly smaller, but the silicone sleeve should take care of it. HTH

didnt video it, but its worth watching, if you can get it

you need to stay off the shoepolish bud, its not doing you any favours.lol

The sensor in the cooling system checks whether the car is up to running temperature or not, if not it will put the car in safety boost, not stop you from starting it, or detect airlocks. Its a temp sensor, not mystic meg, they are bullsh1tting bud

As far as I am aware bud, the lagging is not to dissipate heat but to keep it in, possibly to stop it heating the engine bay. I can only imagine it being bad for a turbo to insulate it.

Mac, you still want me to drop it up to you?? :)

I believe there is a nipple on mine ( I recognised it, so dint tear it off and throw it in the bin, before you ask.lol) but have never greased them

nice to see on the road again, few long nights out on the road will soon see off the running in :)

But, if they werent done with the cambelt, you should replace the thermostat and the two top water hoses, while all the bits are off. :)

Gutted for you bud :( You know what I am going to say..... if I could turn the clock back, I'd have kept my NA, so I kind of know what youre going thru. My wish for you is that you find an NA as sweet as the one you had. I think you will end up with a turbo tho, which is not the end of the world, as they can be fun, just not as much fun:) And cobblers to all those that havent tried an NA and slag them off, as someone who has owned both (which not everyone has) as an everyday, jump in and razz its nads off car, the NA is ahead by miles.

the cheapest "upgrade" you can do is to clean and service your calipers (which as you rightly say are getting on , and prob have 10-12 yrs of road sh1t on them), new pads are next, SS brake lines, 3g grooved disks, then upwards to the full brembo kits mentioned above. I think you will be pleasantly surprised by how much difference a service, new fluid and pads will make tho. HTH

As a railway engineer, I can say that someone really wanted that kit, thats a lot of work to nick some wood and steel.lol

Id shop around for a Uk set if you can bud, alot of the converters for the jap specs fail and cause all sorts of probs ( hicas, power steering etc). I looked into the possibility of getting an aftermarket speedo, but I wanted one to go in the clocks, couldnt find one.

WHORE.lol

The Ecu is under the passenger foot well carpet. Lift the carpet, undo the 4 bolts holding the highly technical slap of hardboard and the ecu is on the right hand side, about six inches square and has a blue cable port running along the right hand side. see here

The problem with the manual ones is that they are not a very fine adjustment and they have a tendency to "creep" open, so your boost is steadily rising.

What did you reverse it into this time???:)

Or one, if you dont feel like doing the mod to every bulb you buy :) Link