groover

Shows two here but maybe series related

You may even have yours sprayed before mine and ive only taken four years or so to sort it lol

Set TPS 0.44v then set the base idle, remove the yellow plug off the IACV adjust the screw to around 650 revs, then plug the yellow connector back in, the ECU should then take over the idle at 750 or 850 depending on transmission.

To get yours socketed speak to AndyP or Jeff, you will also need a chip to place in the eprom holder once done so best get it sorted together.

I removed mine, although not a series 4, shows no faults, also there are no sensors for the fuel canister.

The easy way is to buy a KPH to MPH convertor, tricks the ecu into thinking its going slower than it is, but will not lift the rev limit. Best option but more expensive, either buy a socketed ecu or have yours done and obtain a generic map lifting the restrictions.

Clean the injectors terminals and temp sender, you might be surprised by the corrosion on the injector connectors and the injectors themselves, also do the same with the IACV and FICV plugs. Also check the condition of the spark plugs. Someimes ore than one thing can cause lumpy or erratic idles, but eliminate each item one by one until the problem is solved.

Well had time today to clean all the connectors and double check again why cylinder 1 has gone down. I had spark and the injector ohmed within range at 12.6 ohms, so i unplugged the injector while the car was running and made no difference, so i knew then i must trace the problem further back, so having read about another member having an issue with the ECU, i thought i would start there. I took the ECU out of the car and opened her up, all looked fine on the front of the board and the secondary board, so continued with the rear of the main board and i could see instantly the problem, green corroded pins on two adjacent pins on the board, which co-inside with the feed for cylinder one. The top of the pin had disappeared and although im good with a soldering iron i couldnt get enough heat on top of it without damaging the board, so i made a pigtail using some thin wire to bridge the pin to the relevant part of the board about 20mm away and did a continuity test and all seemed good. Plugged the ECU back in the car and started her up and what a difference having 6 cylinders back:punk: I have a very slight lumpiness, which i think maybe down to the plug in cylinder one caked up, even though i only put in new ones last week, burning no fuel, but it feels great to have some speed again and not sounding like a scooby :thumbup:

Also check for corroded plugs and terminals on the injectors especially, temp sender on the water pipe at the front of the engine,

Welcome to the club and seems you have a long wait to enjoy her on the road lol

They do look great, cant wait to see them in the flesh, well done :thumbup:

All changed mate, to may it easier for everyone :thumbup:

Use this tech to the point of not changing to a manual lol http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?117000-Auto-to-manual-conversion Auto out to auto in is pretty straight forward, you will need to drain the oil from the old box, remove starter motor and exhaust from down pipe to mid section, remove prop by removing centre bearing bolts and the 4 bolts at he diff, it will then slide out of the box. From TT.net on the Z is not that bad. The torque converter needs to be disconnected from the flex plate prior of removing the transmission. The torque converter needs to be removed with the transmission. You can disconnect the converter from the flex plate via the lower transmission shield that goes between the transmission and the engine. Make sure you remove the converter with the transmission. You do not want to leave the converter attached to an engine like you would with the clutch/pressure plate on the 5spd. Drain the fluid prior and disconnect the cooler lines from the radiator. If you do not drain it, when the drive shaft is removed, and the engine tilted backward, it will create a mess. Make sure all the electrical connectors are disconnected. Remove the top two bolts first. If doing this on a flat harbor freight transmission jack, make sure you secure the transmission very well. I do not know about the 5spd transmissions, but the auto transmission likes to slide around on the jack and if it is not secured properly it will slip and fall. Also, you will need another adult person to help you take the transmission off the jack and on the ground. Installing the torque converter in the bell housing is not that difficult also. Refill the converter with the correct amount of ATF, than slide it on to the input shaft gently. Make sure there is no binding and you will need to hear two clicks. Reinstalling it will be a pain. Stabbing it will be difficult. It's best to have it sitting leveled on the transmission jack, with the engine leveled also and going straight in. Prior of this remove the dipstick tube so it dose not interfere with the transmission tunnel, it can be installed later. If you have any old tensioner pulley studs, those can be used as guides for the transmission stabbing.

Happy Birthday fellas, have a great day :thumbup:

You cant put a price on love :biggrin: I stopped counting after the first year, had it 7 years and have another as well, so as i dont go out clubbing or drinking or gambling anymore its probably a cheaper hobby than id wasted money on before :thumbup:

Looks much better smooth and i love the frenched aerial too :thumbup:

Looking great Bob and the dash looks great flocked, would like to see more pics of that when you get the chance, still in two minds, but with a centre gauge pod in the dash, it would look so much neater if it is flocked.

For the attention of members awaiting parts from Mark, please PM me your details and the parts paid for so i can pass it on to Mark. I have had a reply May21st Hi graham really sorry for the late reply I've been in hospital longer than I should of after an op that went a little wrong. I'm back home now and whilst not fully mobile my son can get the items out as I know there's parcels in the garage. Can you let me know what's outstanding and I'll get it off as soon as, or I'll happily refund any money owed. Hopefully we can get this sorted :thumbup1:

Nice one and its a great feeling when you know people are talking about our car :thumbup: People usually say about mine " when you getting it painted then" :whistling: :lol:

Shadow chrome sounds interesting, worth trying it on a trim piece to see what it looks like, worth using a satin clear cote for protection.

Thinking black to make it cleaner, will do the mirror base gloss black, the roof the same, but maybe a satin black for the trims, i will have to see what it looks like in contrast. Getting sprayed at the end of June, so i can have a play with the trims to see which suits best. I thought your zed was yellow or is this another one?

Not my car Dan its a US shortie, just giving an idea of the theme im planning with mine.

I prefer it without the stripes to be honest, this is what im aiming for with mine,

Not good news bud, when was the engine done, any warranty for the work?