groover

Looks like the bonnet stay grommet, depends where you found it though lol

Definitely after and the spolier side on, almost matches the front bumper lip. Remove lip and no need for skirts, keep the lip and i feel it needs skirts to continue the flow.

Sorry to hear that Tony, glad you are ok though, such a shame for a rare zed to bite the dust :scared:

Happy Birthday mate, hope you had a good one :thumbup:

Happy Birthday Mark and good news on the zed front, i know its nice to get a zed and get in and drive it everyday, but unfortunately for some its not always the case, so it doesnt matter how long it takes as long as you enjoy working your way up to getting her how you want. Now you are are the home straight :thumbup:

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My other half has it in her purse James, when she gets back in from shopping i will mail you the number, post is such a lottery at the moment, i had a parcel turn up literally the day after ordering something from Amazon and another took nearly a week, i guess it depends who you use, unfortunately used the post office this time on yours instead of doing it online. - - - Updated - - - And no worries using this thread mate, its whats its here for :thumbup:

I went from a Japspeed to Mongoose, reason being having an NA the Japspeed was too raspy but did sound nice, the mongoose for me is more refined, but will still kick it out when flooring it :thumbup:

They went out today James, will dig out the tracking number and email :thumbup1:

Groovers UK TT project :: 2015 Nissan 300ZX UK TT auto (2015-01-19 00:58:58)

Groover :: 1993 Nissan 300ZX NA (2015-01-19 00:17:35)

I came back from holiday to a flat battery, once started i never noticed the headlight on as it was night and needed them on anyway, it wasnt until i stopped at my destination and turned them off, key out and a few seconds later the headlight came on and stayed on, sounds like yours is heading the same way lol

Yep i had this and know exactly what you need to do :thumbup: With the Passenger kickpanel removed you will see some connector blocks up on a bracket, there you will find once taken apart green corrosion on the pins/terminals of the plug, clean these out and your problem will be sorted. I had a few corroded with green gunk, which also made my horn go off every now and then on its own and of course that is also cured :thumbup1:

Lets hope its not freezing cold, another week later and further North, not a good mix in a tent lol

Johnstones covaplus is no better than B&Q emulsion but twice the price, i did a comparison for coverage and saved my client a fortune. My step daughter had to use Johnstones for her flat as the voucher she got from the housing only uses them as the supplier of the paint etc, i went through 5 trade tubs to do a 2 bed flat in white, had i had to pay for it, i know where i would have gone lol Congrats on the new addition to the family and glad family life is going well for you and Shell :thumbup:

Taken from the Johnstones site: Q. How do I redecorate my internal woodwork which has a solvent based gloss finish using Johnstone’s Aqua Water Based Gloss? A. After thoroughly abrading the glossy surfaces apply one coat of Johnstone’s Aqua Water Based Undercoat followed by two coats of Johnstone’s Aqua Water Based Gloss. Alternatives in a satin finish would be an initial coat of Joncryl Water Based Primer Undercoat followed by the Acrylic Satin. Having painted many houses over the years, as long as you rub down the top coat sufficiently then apply the undercoat, it will be fine. Oil based paints utilise UV light to stabilise the paint, so in darker areas over time the paint will yellow, so they recommend a water based paint for darker rooms or rooms with less light.

I was going to say the carrier should just slide off lol, made a mess of that didnt it :scared:

There is no difference electrically between the dipped and main beam, they both receive 12v via a relay and im sorry but holding your hand at arms length while driving trying to block part of the beam does not simulate a dipped beam. Firstly the main beam is angled slightly higher, has no lens and therefore the beam is scattered rather than focused. I totally see what you are saying and having had really shite headlights in the past myself, i can say with complete confidence that once i cleaned the projector lens inside and out and place my HID H3 5000k the difference is like day and night. Try swapping out your headlight relays, if they are original then a 20 year old relay may be corroded, worn or not conducting the voltage correctly, if you have cleaned your lenses etc and everything suggested in previous posts, then this might be the next port of call. Let us know how you get on and hopefully we can get to the bottom of this brainmelt :biggrin:

Hard to pinpoint exactly, could be a number or combination of things. Is it down on power? As he is local i would say get Jimmer to have a look if he can fit you in.

Give Gary Wilson a PM as he deals with the membership packs :thumbup1:

Happy Birthday mate, have a good one :thumbup:

You could either have a problem with the aircon ecu, black box above the left foot/clutch just behind the tunnel panel or the actuators for the ducts. You wont be able to access anything of any use with the radio bezel out, just the middle duct opening and below that sits the housing for the heater matrix. Get a torch, push the drivers seat as far back as you can and stick your head under where the clutch pedal is or would be if an auto, you might see with the ecu in the way i cant remember off hand, but the flap that controls the water into the matrix is at the bottom of the housing just above the tunnel. See if that opens or closes, by raising or decreasing the temp on the control pod, this would be for the heat or lack of in your case. The other controls iirc sit behind the glovebox, but i will do some research and pop up some pics if i can find what im looking for :thumbup1:

You would change the resistor and no need to change the screw, also there are two potentiometers on the series 1 and 2 dash at least that would need to be adjusted to fine tune the mph, there is info in the tech section regarding that, I know that the UK dash and Jap dash has the screw in the different holes. I gues buying a convertor made it easy for anyone not capable of messing with the dash or not wanting too lol

The whole signal is pulse and no digital involved as i see it. The resistor slows the pulse of the signal, so from the speed sensor in the gearbox to dash, converted then onto the ecu.