groover

Im off on holiday in the morning, leaving in a few hours to the airport to Egypt and then when i get back its all go on the TT conversion on my zed, its been a long old battle with what to do since my engine went bang in the yellow zed, so this summer she is getting TT'd up and i cant wait:punk: Although the UK TT is in pretty reasonable condition as a good base, its been off the road since 2011 and i feel i have spent so much time and money on the yellow NA not to do it and dont feel the need to run two zeds at the moment. When the conversion is done, i shall then have to make the decision to restore over a period of time or break, but for now will use it as a donor for my Yellow one. Roll on the sun :clap: and the summer :punk:

You gave your sister the white one :scared: i bet she loves you :biggrin: will be good to see you again Trish, i remember the late night chats we had at Mersea all them years ago :thumbup:

Normally when the fuse blows for the headlights, the main beam will stay on, on its own as a fail safe, so i would check the fuse in the foot well and the relays under the bonnet, take one out at a time to find the culprit. Failing that you have a short and the likely culprit is a corroded connector terminal in the pass footwell behind the kick panel, mine were corroded and solved the horn issue and my lights problem.

Fair enough :thumbup1:

Happy Birthday mate, have a great day :thumbup:

I could be wrong here, but is there really any point in adjustable tension rods? Im not sure they add to the geometry of the car, rather a stiffening tool in general.

That looks really nice mate, im sure Julia will be pleased with it :thumbup:

Take a look at the condition, also check the drop links, hitting a pothole could cause any one of a number suspension parts breaking, take it into ATS or somewhere for a free safety check :thumbup1:

Front tension rod bushes more likely than the rod loose itself.

I have for sale OEM tinted/smoked rear lights in great condition and an illuminated centre panel with Red 300zx that also lights up in red from Phutumsch. Will be plus postage due to size and weight, will work out postage on winners postcode to get exact price. Cheers Graham

Hes not having much luck lately lol, that Star Wars film he is doing must be cursed :thumbdown:

Anything like that will do the job, but remember you would have to remove the 4x 501 bulbs in the rear to get the best effect from a colour change

Noz is the man to speak to about Nistune

I wouldnt take a sale away from Dave lol, im still unsure what to do and will be a while before i do lol

As Philip stated the control ecu behind the centre console just to the left of the clutch, will be the issue. With lights off you would get full brightness digital readout regardless of the dimmer setting on the light pod.

Happy Birthday Mick :thumbup: that pic didnt quite work now did it :lol::lol:

Best wishes Andrew, have a great day :thumbup:

The oem custom one? I bought one off Dave last year :thumbup: not likely to fit it now though as i think my plans have changed for the Uk zed. Good quality though bud, as all his stuff is :thumbup:

Also apart from idle are you getting any misfire? Is/was the engine running smoothly? I had a similar issue a while back, i found a cracked solder joint on the board of the ecu for one of the injectors, which was the cause of my lumpy running and a dead maf ( it would rev past 2500k revs) but would not idle due to incorrect air input, i changed the maf to a known good one and it worked. I was able to set the idle to where it needed to be and it ran so much better. I like you tried adjusting the idle screw in and out with virtually no affect, especially to the percentage of air at idle i was aiming for ( 15%) until i changed the maf.

At idle its about 1.30v -1.48v and judging by the write up below, you may have 2 duff mafs The AFM is under the front nose panel between the headlights. The manual volt test= ~0.8V with ignition on (some people get 0.08V on theTechtom) and ~1.5V at idle. Check for smooth increase in voltage as revs are increased. A faulty AFM will often prevent the engine from revving over 2500RPM

I sent them a letter Dean the week i gave it away stating i was no longer the owner, to cover my ass lol, they said they never received it, it was only after faxing them again, they found the record of both. When i sent the V5 for my Hyundai coupe, on 15th Oct, i got a letter 25th Nov to say they have received the V5 and i would receive the new logbook by 28th Nov. I eventually got it 6 weeks after the purchase, they just seem a little lacking in the efficiency dept, however having tried another phone number yesterday i got a very helpful girl who finally confirmed the date change, she said a letter was sent out on the 26th Feb, im still waiting to receive it. Maybe the title was a little harsh, but thats how i felt about them after all these months, i should have said my local council are morons :thumbup:

What rear spoiler are you going for Daz?

In recent years we have stopped people with bad track records from selling, but in most cases after trying to mediate they end up getting banned :yes:

Welcome to the club and pics are a must :thumbup1:

My scenic needed a crank sensor, exhaust welding, gearbox mount, also had the common on that year, burnt out mirror control, broken rear hatch handle, indicators stopped working as did the windscreen wipers lol, it needed a new ECM, barrel and key to sort that little lot of electrical gremlins, but a good project for my mate as i hated even looking at it in the end lol I also had the V5c, which the new owner is supposed to keep, however even that was not enough to prove i wasnt the owner at the time, its been a few months of battling, but luckily i had everything on my side, paperwork wise :thumbup1: