groover

:happybday: Have a great day :happybday:

:happybday: Have a nice day, you can save fuel and use your bus pass now:tt2::happybday:

All by hand? are you mad:hammer: i cant be arsed, i will use any tool i can get my hands on to get it done. Admittedly the wet and dry needs doing by hand but not as bad as doing it all by hand:laugh:

I think its better, more robust than a dremmel and it doesnt need an additional power supply, it also has speed control, so a no brainer for the money lol

As above, plus, you can buy a dremmel copy with all the bits from maplins for about £20, infact i use that more than my dremmel. And i just bought a polishing kit with all the wheels and compound blocks from Halfords for £16.99. The dremmel bits are a ridiculous price, i bought a 2pk of fibre wheels and lasted about 5 mins each, so i would forget the dremmel route apart from the little nooks and crannies you cant reach.

I fitted the clocks myself and i bought the ECU from a previous trader/member. Its a worth while mod, its the route that most take, if you can get hold of some UK clocks. That said, there still may be dry joints on the speedo board with any clocks you buy, easily rectified. Benefits are, read in mph, odometer reads in miles too, power steering less likely to go stiff at the most inopportune moment. Cost, depends who is selling, from £80-100 generally, i think visually they look nicer too. Cheers Graham

Im sure it does, i had my ECU chipped at the same time so i didnt have that problem,

Some KPH to MPH are badly/cheaply made and cause more trouble than they are worth. Go for UK clocks, problem solved

:happybday: Have a nice day :happybday:

I thought you might stand more chance of getting an answer lol

Cheers Paul got the pics, unfortunately the oil filter is in the way, the bracket on my auto might be the same, i will have to get under and have a look. Many thanks Graham

Type 1 or 2 will be an improvement on the clear corners ones, eg. take away the 2 lines of leds in the pic and you have the clear corner leds lol

Its better they are mounted behind the diffuser, you dont see the light source then and will look OEM

Hi Mate, i have a pic of the clear corners led light units, i will try and dig it out. On most of the board they have 5mm leds apart from the recess at each end which have 15 3mm leds( each end) and in the middle where the reflector screws in there is a row of 5mm leds top and bottom and 12 3mm leds around the hole. With the spacing of the leds, they have designed it so the hole is in the space between a row. You wont need smd's then, which will make the board easier to design,, or maintain the same design that you have. HTH Graham

Cheers Paul, its graham.jones@hotmail.co.uk Graham

Happy Birthday Dave, hope you had a nice day

You bugger lol, cant wait to see the pics of the end result, i bet you cant wait. Graham

Payment sent using paypal, ive paid the 88p fee, ref: groovers payment for JAE Cheers Graham

Mintex are ok and cheap, but i find they leave alot of brake dust on my alloys

Cheers Paul, i cant quite see the bracket clear enough, but it definitely looks like i have that part missing. Many thanks Graham

Theres alot to be said about sticking to OEM parts. I keep thinking about upgrading parts, but after an issue with some whiteline drop links, im sticking with OEM. Although Hel brake lines are supposed to be good lol

Hi Mate, the pics i need are with the gearbox attached to the engine and the bracket/s are next to the oil filter. Cheers Graham

Having been working on a spare engine in my garage, i suddenly thought to myself, how the hell would you get to half of this stuff with the engine in place. And i dont mean the usual parts you can only get to with the engine out, but things like injector plugs, fuel damper hoses etc.. friggin nightmare. So my hats off to Jeff, Jamie and anyone else who has to deal with these bits while the engine is in the car:bow::bow:

If you look from the headstock, down the length of the neck, you will see if its twisted. There will be a truss rod going through the neck that you can adjust to straighten or add bow, by using an allan key, it will be situated either at the base of the neck near the front pick up or at the headstock just above the nut, under a little plate hth Graham

Does it have separate saddles, or is it the whole bridge as one piece? You may have a high spot in some of your frets after the 12th fret, may need filing down.