groover

Hopefully not your rear panel :biggrin:

Bonfires in back gardens should be banned IMO, i cant stand the smell and in this day and age shouldn't really be necessary.

Bitty:hurl::hurl::tongue:

Happy Birthday Dave, have a great day Graham

Craigs leds should be fine, I wired them slightly differently, but i would double check them first Craig with a 9v battery or car battery, before you seal them in for peace of mind lol

I took mine off as it had a prang in the past by the looks of it and the bumper wont fit right over the top of it. Its supposed to be there to help in an accident to take the brunt of a front end force, but you take your chances lol

By the way Dave, your bits in the post tomorrow with a courier, the PO wouldnt take the skirts lol, too big or long for them to handle in their little cage

So am i:sweatdrop:

Mjp will know and probably have one in stock

Fuel is unchanged, but then it goes up and down like a whores draws most of the time anyways

Youre a star Jeff many thanks. I have studied your posts on the timing belt and understood what needed to be lined up, but did get confused with the timing marks on the back plate as they didnt line up exactly, but as you say they are only a guide. The timing mark on the crank arent so distinctive and by the looks of it, its all original. Cheers Graham

I have a strange one here. i have a new timing belt to fit on an engine im doing up in my garage on an engine stand. Now the original belt is a nissan with the same part number as my new belt. Now when i line up the timing marks on the cams, they are about a cm out on the belt that is fitted. After turning the engine round several revolutions to see if it will line up eventually, it seems that it doesnt line up at all any closer than the cm away from the timing marks. I was told the engine ran fine from Mike Feeney, whom i got the engine from, so do i ignore the way the belt is fitted and put the new one on with the timing marks matching or do i follow how the old belt marks are matched. Any help Jeff or legrath much appreciated Cheers Graham

Not as bad as i anticipated and it could have been a lot worse.

There will be an O2 sensor on each downpipe, if neither are plugged in, as long as the ecu was reset it will run a means setting, ie neutral, it wont be registering the exhaust gasses which enable the ecu to adjust the fuel to air mixture.. And as shrek mentioned it looks like you have an N/A subframe, so no worries on the hicas elimination front. Its a mod than some members do to have a quicker standing start as the ratios are different to the TT, top end will be down slightly but nothing to worry about. I would just have a tidy up on the bits that have been deleted and remove the bits associated with them. The only thing that will affect the running are the O2 sensors. Do a search or take a look in the faq section on the main page and have a look around, theres a lot of info and help here. Cheers Graham

Pic2 looks like the pass side O2 sensor not plugged in. Pic 3 is the Aiv pipes that are no longer needed after a decat. Pic 4 is the cat heat sensor wires which can be cut off. Looks like the rear hicas pipes have been terminated. The plug looks like the hicas sensor feed. I would get it looked at, get some pics up of the rear axle to see if its been locked in any way, if its not locked or modified, will be dangerous to drive, back end will be swinging around. Will check on the other plugs, unless someone jumps in first

Is it a jap or UK car, do you have a kph to mph convertor fitted behind the speedo binnacle? Although you can change the fluid or check the power steering pipes and connections, the signal from the speedo is generally the cause.

Happy Birthday Harry, hope things are going well and you have a great day Graham

http://dta-motorsport.com/used/krik.jpg Tool kit

Wont work till about 45mph IIRC its been a while, i changed my steering wheel and lost the use about a year ago.

http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.49 Power steering is affected by the speedo. If you have an aftermarket kph to mph convertor this can cause issues if defective. You may have dry solder on the speedo board. Have you noticed the speedo fluctuate at all, especially when the steering goes hard?

http://300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=91894 Also search in the top bar and there are a few threads on the subject

Done mate and bumped, welcome back lol

welcome to the club, you have to be subscribed to access some of the info on the forum, but you can put up a wanted ad. Cheers Graham

You would normally adjust the potentiometer if the resistor change has been done in Jap clocks to calibrate the speedo. It is likely that the speedo only has a UK face on it and is out and has the R10 resistor mod done.

rev counter wont do anything until you put the needle back to zero. It sounds like the needle has been off at some point on the speedo, it should sit at zero with the engine on or off until you move, then it receives the signal from the speed sensor in the gearbox, which goes to the speedo before the ecu.