jaffa

Drop him a text or fb

no he didn't

I doubt it, specialtyZ are a small company with small margins - - - Updated - - - I doubt it, specialtyZ are a small company with small margins

for mainly road use, stick with stock. When you've done everything else then a quaife will be best. I would say that an uprated diff isn't high on the list of must do's

The other knob could be traction control

good to hear :) throw the old ones in the bin!

There are two positive wire to the starter, one should be heavy duty and is permanently connected via a big bolt terminal, the other is much smaller for the actual start signal. There is no relay on the signal cable unless it was an auto originally I've recently overhauled all the wiring on mine so happy to help

yes, i would imagine it's from the warm-cycle, and does sound like it's on the rich side as well. The Coppers don't foul as easily so you should be fine to do multiple start up / warm cycle's without worrying about it and while you troubleshoot you're other issues

as an FYI I now run the grade 8 copper plugs per Noel's recommendation. No issues and great performance

I would go with 8's, but if the map is at all off they will probably foul. If the map is ok, then 8's will be no bother. write up for PS bleeding http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=st&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=7&design=default&total=98

Fresh plugs might be a good start

there's a guide to bleed the PAS, involves front in the air and turning lock to lock repeatedly re the idle, is it better when warmed up? ie it's a generic idle issue rather than cold start

Hi, Does it run better when fully warmed up? Some of the above will depend on how the motec is setup to idle ie via timing and tb opening or through the idle air control. I wouldn't worry about the size of the injectors being an issue Ps did you get the calendar?

as an fyi, r888's provide better grip in damp conditions than a normal road tire. They only run out of talent in standing water, or very cold temps. I've driven in the snow in them and they're fine as long as you're sensible

I would go super sports, excellent grip without comprising wet weather ability

nice, what size tire are you hoping to mount on the rear?

michellin super sport or r888

With no load from AC, and no additional cooler in the way then it 'shouldn't' be needed if the viscous is still locking up correctly. Depends on the OP's preference and intended use

lights are always on, with a switched earth, so yes, sounds like a short to earth causing them to come on

do you still have AC? sounds like you haven't. If that's the case don't bother refitting it...

I would echo be careful on the rear, they can go much more aggressive under stock arches

diff cooler can go unless you plan on any sustained top speed runs So no track work but you're going to put a cage in ...

I would leave the PAS cooler on if you intend to do any track work ...

Depends on your goals and if your current ones are in good condition. If budget isn't too much of a problem i would chuck eagle's in for peace of mind. However, the stock rods are forged from factory and can hold plenty of power, they are holding at 700hp for me

Nice, though I would have gone wider on the front so you get the same concave spoke look as the rears