SMW1

Hi Guys, I did an ECU check as the car seems to be running a little on the lumpy side. I think this may be due to a lazy O2 sensor which I will change today, but I got error code 54 at 0 starts ago ??? 54 Signal circuit from A/T control unit to ECU (A/T only) The A/T communication line is open or shorted A/T refers to Automatic Transmition right ?. I have a manual ? WTF ? :confused:

Did you ever get this sorted Stu ? Just wondering what it was in the end.

Best way to checkit is vis a conzult or find somone close ot you and swap it over to see if it starts.

Fook knows :D

Should be all the same mate.

For anyone who watches the show, there will be a live showing tonight between 09:00 and 00:30. Cerina has booked us tickets to go and see it so we will be in the audience. I've had a bet with a friend at work that if I get any airtime as the camera scrolls I'm going to pretend to freak out in the audience for a laugh, I'll probably get a slap form the missus and thrown off the set but what the hell, it's all part of the fun.

A silver Z modded or Standard just does it for me every time. Looks like an excellent repair job there, bet you're well chuffed to be back on the road. Just remember to stay away from White ford vans (mission imossible).

I voted Yes, because I think the other thread went off on one and TBH I didn’t really help matters either, so this is me trying to make up for snapping :D.

Geoff, The simple fact is that some of these guys just don’t like Max power, That's not because they are small minded, it's because they prefer to read other mags. To be honest when I buy a car mag I want a car mag not a porno, and that's the reason I don’t buy max power. It was a simple question that was asked, "do you want to be in max power" quite a few simple answers were given, No's, yes's and also some elaboration on why they said no or yes. My point is just because people don't share the same views with you, which you seem to find hard to accept, it doesn't give you the right to call them prats. I for one was actually surprised with that comment and certainly didn’t expect it from you. :( With regards to a max power feature with our cars in it, sure why not minded>

I hope it wasn't anything serious. Will be able to make the sping party though :D :dance:

So, what's the plan then ?

Get your butt in fight club Monkey nutts !!!. And I'll stick a neon up your butt :dance: (not in a gay way either ;) )

or ask them to remove any items that may scratch the paint like zips and buckles.

Probably not depending how much it's raining.

LOL I wouldn't go quite that far :D :D :dance:

FFS Mate everyone has their opinion. Some of us don't appreciate being called prats because we have an opinion. I certainly don't :mad: Fair enough you have an opinion, that's fine. I don't call you a prat because of your personal taste. I think you got a little out of your league with that last comment.

I agree with Bagins. The two cars can produce different boost for a number of reasons.... Boost leak air flow etc etc.

Another point of discussion would be…. Where do solid lifters, cams, Re-bore, light weight pully(s), velours, port and polish, Metal Head gaskets etc fit into this ??? Are these just a case of added HP or are the necessary at some stage. Obviously higher boost = higher HP but would be good if we could colate all this info and get a graph in place with various points.

You may have a boost leak mate ?

Ok the figures I put up were rough guide lines based on my car. When I first got my car it had been RR'd previously to me buying it and all it had was zorst and decat. They RR's it at 315 BHP. I then fitted an induction and just before the RR I had head and piston work which meant my car was now 100% or there abouts on every cylinder. At the RR I got 334 so whether these are accurate is not the point. Different zorst, induction and chips will have different effects. There's no point on running up'd boost if your engine is not at 100%. I say get the engine sorted first. You can’t tell me that all the people on this forum that hit the RR did a conzult diag and a compression test on each of their cylinder before they went on. I know my engines power is at 100% or there abouts because I did have compression test. Conzult diag and many other test before I went on. This is why I beieve I got quite a good BHP reading and nothing else. Anyway the main point of topic is not really the BHP results we got on the RR as this seems to be a little touchy for some people and is probably best left alone, only when we have another RR on different rollers we can speculate. I'm more interested in how much we can push out of a stock engine and at what stage we need to start changing bits to gain more power. Thanks Gio for the links. It seems as though the TT.net stuff has no reference to forged pistons, but if my calulations are correct Steve Millan is basically saying the pistons are good for about 600 - 650 HP. In terms of calulating that to BHP flywheel ?. Fook knows !!! Steve Millan also give the opinion that stock injectors are only good for up to 16 psi and the stock turbo's are only good for 17 psi. So from that do we have any other views ? Zorst/ induction/decat/chip = 14 - 15 psi / 380 - 400 bhp Intercoolers = 15 - 16 psi / 400 - 420 bhp 555 Injectors = 17 psi / 420 - 440 bhp New Turbo's = 18+ psi / up to 550 BHP Forged pistons = 550 BHP+

Right guys lets have some feed back on this one. As there seems to be a lot of conflicting opinions out there. 280BHP With regards to power increases we all know that we first need to improve the breathing. 290 - 310BHP This can be done by fitting better flowing air filters or an induction to get the air in, 310 - 330BHP An after market exhaust to get the air out. 330 - 340BHP We then know that to allow slightly quicker spool up times we decat, this may or may not give us a little more BHP as well 340 - 370BHP Then it's time to up the boost, but this is were it starts getting interesting. The stock chip seems to be ok for about 11 - 12 psi of boost without detting. 370 - 400BHP After this we get an aftermarket chip in to increase the fuelling. Then we up the boost to 14 - 15 psi What's next ? How much boost can we run on stock internals, stock injectors, stock Intercoolers and stock turbo's. Now to run higher boost you need to keep the turbo's cooler so I would think that bigger IC's are next ? But when do the injectors max out ? When do the stock turbo's peak ? Lets just say we get T28's or Smithy hybrids on there, some bigger intercoolers and 555 injectors ? Now how far can we go ?. How much psi/BHP can we push before we need to get forged pistons or solid lifters ? How much BHP can each stock cylinder provide ? I think this would make a fairly good debate so lets have your view on this one.

It has a grey surround not carbon. so that's series 2 is it ?. what was series 1 then ? I'm just wondering what the difference is between the power ID meters ?

1) 950 popular plus fiesta 2) 1.8 glx sierra 3) 735 sei BMW 4) 300zx TT Wow only 4 cars, makes me sound well young I like it. Just don't ask me to list the bikes I've owned.

Actually just realised what a kack picture that is, oh well use that as reference to the colour at night.