john300zx

Cheers Jack I will get my manual out to locate the valve....hopefully it will be easy to get to as i need the car for work. Cheers again mate......John Crisp

Cheers Andy I did have the blower on cause it had been a bit steamy in the car but i put them off. Recently the tickover on the car is erratic....sometimes going up/down between 800-1000 rpm then it settles at 800. Today the 1st time it cut out i was sitting at lights then it just stopped...wouldnt start,,,then did after maybee 1 minute, all i did was move the wiring loom/plugs etc at ptu and cam sensor on the rh front side of the engine....when i moved them after the car started it didnt cut out so i think it wasnt related that it did start after i played with the looms/plugs there. Is the emission question maybee a lot of rubbish...with the emissions being sky high and the cats sometimes smelling like raw eggs nothing to do with the intermittant cut out. Cheers John Crisp

On way home from work my 300 cut out 4 times....when i was slowing down at lights or turning into my street when there i am at slow speed....i leave it for a few seconds and it starts no probs and runs ok....no lights flashing or misfires. When the car restarts it turns like normal then fires up...no slow start like in fuel starvation...I have tried mooving plugs etc then as i say when i try..it starts no probs... The only thing i was wondering was with the emission control.....both my cats are fecked as at MOT my car failed (but passed Any input welcome. Cheers guys.....John Crisp

Jack I am at the rack side of the arm u r turning......the arm the track rod end is screwed into is into like a 'ball end' at the rack where there is a large square block that is loosened bye a shifting spanner. when i loosen this...i can turn the rack as well for a bit..then the rack stops mooving and the square block loosens allowing me to remove the arm which the track rod is attached. Cheers John Crisp

Cheers Mickey I have had the car over the pit at work (i'm an HGV mechanic) and thats when i noticed the knock from the rack. I posted on here ages ago regarding the knock and bought a steering arm from nissan thinking thats what the knock was. To me the rack is nachered as the shaft coming out the rack that the arm i replaced is secured to should be tight...only moving when the steering is turned but i was wondering if anyone had replaced the steering arm in question and if so what movement did they have in their rack(movement=did the shaft turn a bit b4 the arm actually loosened or was the shaft tight with no play in it). Cheers John Crisp

Oki so i was a bit drunk when i posted this and now it confuses me when i read it. I replaced the driver's side steering arm (the arm has the trackrod end on it and screws into the rack). When i loosened the arm at the rack end (under the rubber boot) the rack turned about 30 degree's....is this normal as when i drive my car the steering doesnt feel right like there is something loose and when i switch the car off, press the brake hard and rock the steering there is a clunk noise coming from the rack at the driver's side. Anyone got any input. Cheers guys JOHN CRISP

I have just bought a new drivers side are for my steering rack. When i loosened the arm the shaft going into the rack turned round quite a bit until the arm loosened. Now i think the rack is nachered as to me there should be no movement. Anyone ever changed the arm i am talking about that goes from like the track rod and bolts onto the rack and did they have any moovement in the rack. Cheers John Crisp

Yeah nigel i guess it is gonna be noisey....feckit lol. Its a new company building the silencer...called C&C exhausts...a guy that used to work for a company in Prestwick, Ayrshire started up on his own....the rest of the system i and a workmate are going to weld ourselves (he is a welder to trade...gr8 at his job) so i am trying to build the system as cheap as possible..i know typical scotsman but if the mrs knew what i have spent on my car..well who knows what would happen. BTW i have never heard of the company u have mentioned. Cheers John Crisp

Cheers Nigel The silencer I am having built only actually has a 3 inch outlet hole.....I want the big tail for looks only...i think also the inlet to the silencer is 3 inches too so tbh i dont want to be a Nova sounding 300 being really loud....but.....a bit of noise when the car is kicked i think is acceptable. Cheers John Crisp

Steve I have had a bad vibration on my 300 since i changed the pads, all be it above 40 mph when braking, its fine under 40. I have replaced the front tension rod bushes as the origionals were leaking grease....then the steering rack bushes......i have finally noticed the driver's side steering rod from the rack has lift, also i know my tracking is miles out, i have a new rod to fit but no time to do it. Next week i plan to change the rod. I have also noticed since changing the front pads...after a short journey the front discs are a lot hotter than the rears and when my car was brake tested the rears never locked out...the fronts did...but i got high enough readings so it was cool. I wouldnt jump in and change discs....get them checked b4 as ok 1st time u might be right..nachered discs....but they might be fine and u r changing them for nothing. Just my 2p's worth....cheers john crisp

Cheers Steve...oval tailpipes look good too....this guy is gonna make a silencer for 80 quid without the tailpipe.....i think i can get a 5 inch round folded outward end tailpipe FOC...thanks for the pic mate. Cheers John crisp

FFS typo of the year......post should be 'tailpipes' Cheers john crisp

I am lost with the variety of tailpipes available for the stainless silencer I am having made for my 300. Is there any chance of some pics of different tailpipes on the variety of 300's on the forum, either as a reply to my post or e-mail to tottiegt4@yahoo.com. Ideally I want like a large bore maybee 5 inch tailpipe with the ned folded outwards but any pics appreciated. BTW 120 quid for a stainless silencer I think is quite good. Cheers guys John Crisp

Gr8 pic.....what kind of wheels are on the black 300 . Cheers john crisp

I think the bulb is a 12 volt 13 watt capless type.....i have 12 volt 5 watt capless ones in my centre brake light as I get them FOC from work and the local Nissan garage i deal with couldnt find them in their system....what a surprise. HTH John Crisp

Cheers Paul

Cheers Jeff

Paul Its not the track rod end......where the rod for the track rod meets the rack..i have lift inside the rack...when i press my brakes on quite hard and rock the steering...the rod coming out the rack on the drivers side lifts up and down...not at the track rod end but actually inside the rack. Cheers john crisp

Willie, The front one I used the press ....the back one the bearing comes with a carrier that bolts onto the back of the car....i had to use a press to locate the hub in the bearing but actually wasnt too bad a job....the front one was more of a job....oops and i had to run a weld on the old parts of the track to get them off as they were really tight...amazin what a bit of heat does. Also willie i never went near nissan for prices of bearings but got them from motor factor..the rear bearing being more expensive... Cheers and hth...john crisp

Willie I replaced the bearings as I have a rumbling noise like a dry bearing on my 300 above 35 mph...the noise increases with speed but sounded like NSF with one of my workmates, then after i replaced the NSF ....NSR was where it sounded like the noise was coming from...after replacing NSR.......aaaaaaaaaahhh ffs noise still there.....i actually think its the prop centrebearing but I have just mooved work so i havent got time to jack it up and run the car. Cheers John Crisp

Cheers Jeff I take it this is a common thing then and for once manufacturers actually supply a replacement part instead of the full rack being required. Jeff what kind of job is it. Cheers John Crisp

Are u getting any oil on the floor under the engine as I was on the pass side below the air cond pump, I could feel the oil yunning from near the corner or the rocker cover/ timing belt inside plate but couldnt see where it was coming from. Firstly I removed the plenium and resealed the pass side rocker covers......to no avail...oil still running out and even after a short run I got plooms of smoke from the pass side of the engine and out the pass side wheelarch. Plan B was the camshaft seals which I replaced with the timing belt and voila oil leak cured.....At last. Hope this helps........Cheers John Crisp

Anyone ever had their steering rack overhauled. Mine has lift in one side where the track rod end 'rod' comes out the rack as though the ball end is worn. Cheers John Crisp

It would pay to shop around the motor factors for wheel bearings, I have recently replaced a front and rear one, the front was 30 quid , the rear 80 quid as it includes the carrier too, and both were good makes (SKF I think). Cheers John Crisp

FFS a tenner used to get me 30 miles driving locally to work, now my work has moved I am at 30 miles now with still quarter tank so I think I am into the 20's to the gallon......wooohoooo... My 2p's worth..cheers John Crisp