john300zx

Cheers Vijay

I just recently changed my front brake pads and after 100 miles I still have a really bad brake shudder when breaking from 40 mph and above. From last week I have noticed dripping from the front suspension link bushes at the side of the radiator grease/oil like substance dripping on my garage floor. Tonight I put my car over a pit at work to find the oil/grease is actually was dripping from these bushes, the other end of the link bolts onto the bottom wishbone. I have no signs of oil from anywhere else near the bushes and as they are at the front near the radiator the only place the oil/grease can come from is these bushes. When i was reversing the car off the pit, the drivers side wheel caught the pit runner and i heard a clunk from the drivers side. I got a workmate to move my car while i watched from underneath only to find the drivers side bush i was describing is totally f*****. Anyone ever noticed the oil/grease coming from the bushes. Cheers John Crisp

AON were and still are the best quote i had for my 300 even though its uk spec, it wasnt much dearer with them for an import 300. I checked out the Classic Insurance route, the only quote i had was for about £400 without using my NCB, 6000 miles a year, and no commuting to work, which wasnt any use for me as I use my 300 for work even though its local. Anyone got any classic quotes not restricting the use in this way?? Cheers John Crisp

Sorry for the delay in hgetting the part number for the LH Rear Wheel bearing kit on my 300. Wheel Bearing Assembly VKBA 3313. As I say its an SKF bearing so touch wood it shouldnt be a problem fitting it to my car, the only prob being i havent had time yet to attempt it so I cant say what kinda job it is. The only other think is when phoning the Motor Factors, tell them u r in the Motor Trade to get a discount which may save the VAT, always something off the price. HTH John Crisp

I have just sourced a left hand rear wheel bearing for my 1993 UK 300. I didnt go near Nissan as the scarey price menu they have pushed me towards the motor factors. I had to order a full bearing kit which consists of the bearing/the carrier that bolts onto the car, with the old hub being pressed back into the new bearing/carrier, I was told by the factor that the bearing isnt sold on its own hence the high price they origionally quoted me of 110 quid, I eventually got it for 77 quid as I am in the motor trade and the kit was an SKF Bearing Kit. It is in my work just now but if its the left side u need I can get the part number for u if its any use. HTH John Crisp

I looked at GTO's B4 I changed to the Z but what made my mind up was that the insurance for a GTO is a lot higher than the Z. My Z costs me 500 a year, a GTO was gonna be nearer 1000 quid, there was no way the wife was gonna wear that increase in the insurance. I liked the thought of 4WD though, as the Z can be quite scarey in the wet. Anyways just my 2p's worth. Cheers John Crisp:D

:D Gotta be BLACK

Willie Can u not run the car with the top left cover off to see if u can see anything when the engine is running. Cheers John Crisp

Willie When u say chitty noise, is it like a ticking noise, does it speed up with the engine being revved faster, anything else?? Cheers John Crisp

Jeff Yep it was the right hand cover as u look at the car but on the car its the left hand side of the engine. Cheers John Crisp

Willie I took the left hand top cover off by removing the screws, 5 mm allen ones and i think 8 or 10 mm socket sizes and the small bracket for the wiring along the front of the engine. Also the 2 intake hoses to and from the intercooler need to come off too. I just did my cambelt and cam seals a month ago but the usual i cant remember what i did yesterday never mind a month ago. HTH John Crisp (woohoo another scots 300)

I'm with Aon and have been for the last 2 years, I have tried all the more well known companies and cant get a decent quote (Tesco, Direct Line, etc), even when i changed from a GT4 to the Z they were still cheaper by miles. 2p's worth John Crisp

Gavo its not just 90 quid....if u declare the points to your insurance i bet your premium jumps......me being an honest citizen my 42 in a 30 cost me 60 quid, 3 points and 90 quid on my insurance.......so 150 quid later...the bast****...my old boy was in the police for 30 yrs and i had respect for them..not now just my 2p's worth mate . .....john crisp

Andy its not when driving the car the revs are erratic or anything that side of its fine.....its when my car is started even in milder situations the revs go straight up to just under 2000 rpm. Cheers John

Well i am paranoid about engine wear too but i still think that on initial start up even although it is not freezing as my car has been in my work with heaters on etc the revs still seen to go up to 2000 or there abouts when the car is started. Me thinks i am gonna let that one develope as with the replies i think its maybee just the way the cold start is even although i think its a bit high. Cheers for the replies everyone John

Cheers Stuart The engine does run reasonably smoooooth at as u say between 700-900 rpm. Its just when its cold started i feel that it runs too quick on start up like in a bad start situation with the engine revving too high to quick b4 oil pressure is high enough. I havent looked at the manual yet to see the sensors involved to check the terminals etc as it may be that as i have noticed some of the sensor wiring to be corroded so it might be something along these roads. Cheers Again John Crisp

Hello all What is the range of engine revs to be expected when starting the car from cold. Mine goes to about 2000 rpm when it starts which to me is far too high. It does creap back down to about 1500 rpm after maybee 30 secs but initially i think too high. Any help appreciated Cheers John Crisp

If there isnt any oil in the steering system then the pump will get very groany and is more than likely nachered, maybee at some point the oil level has dropped too low and the pump has ran dry for a short time maybee doing the damage. HTH John Crisp

Cheers for all the replies guys I managed to get them for 21 quid plus RAT, I cant remember the make but i think they are Mintex ones from my mate who used to work in the autoshops who has contacts. Thanks again........John Crisp

mac..........guess what else i need maybee......a battery haha. 50 quid is excellent for a set of pads, have u ever priced the post or is it the old DONT EVEN GO THERE routine. Cheers anyway guys..thanks for the replies. John Crisp

cheers clarkey

Cheers Clarkey, but who is macca and how do I contact him. Cheers John Crisp

I need front pads for my UK 300. Anyone got any contacts for pads as Nissan want 66 quid inc rat, I havent shopped about yet as I am not really in a hurry to get them. Cheers John Crisp

Ken The cam seals can be done without taking off the plenium chamber, its just a full front end strip down, I know i have just completed it recently. I removed the inlet manifold/plenium chamber to re-seal the rocker covers thinkit it was them that were leaking...but it wasnt. I bought a new belt from Nissan and 4 new seals and replaced them. Not too bad a job to do, lining up the engine isnt a problem, just a lot of parts to take off to access the belt/seals. HTH John Crisp

Put the gears back on, torqued the bolts, refitted the belts last night, all appears ok, i just hope i havent broke anything inside the rocker cover, but i dont think so as the cam came off and went on no probs, so i am on the build again but its scarey when u hear a noise and dont know what it is. Cheers John Crisp