Ant_300zx

loving your car:bow: especially the wheels. What make are they? Cheers, Ant

I need to find out asap as I have placed a order for the manual loom the other day and may need to change it before it gets sent out :cry: Ant

I had a manual conversion done a few years back and I have pulled the engine for a rebuild and i'm going to replace the efi loom. From what your saying I need to buy a auto loom instead of a manual? Why can't I use a manual loom? Cheers, Ant

What goes through peoples heads when they come up with these ideas:nono:

Cheers Legrath, i'll get in contact and ask them to send a lefty instead. Cheers, Ant

I ordered all my engine parts last night from Conceptzperformance. The only thing that is on back order is the RHD EFI Harness. What I was thinking is maybe ordering the LHD one instead. Could anyone tell me the difference between the two, apart from the obvious :rolleyes:. The engine is out and will be trying to relocate the harness to hide it, so the differences could help. Thanks, Ant

Very nice :bow: Ant

I guess it's best to go for the Nismo thermostat as it opens at a lower temp? Also the VTC springs is it worth getting the JWT, or are they only purchased if your running high lift cams? Thanks, Ant

What you've said makes sense Legrath regarding the engine no longer meeting tolerances and that the crank may have been ground in the past. So I could order the wiseco pistons, conrods etc right away and then buy the bearings after the engineering shop has polished and ground the crank etc. Then get them to measure and from that I can then order the ACL race bearings? Where can I get the ACL bearings from? Does Dan at DTA do them? Once the the parts turn up I could get them to balance everything aswell. Sorry for all the stupid questions. Thanks again, Ant

Just trying to work out the rod and main bearing info I need so I can give this to Z1 when ordering Engine Bearings Set. Can someone just confirm I have worked this out correctly please. Crankshaft pin grade for connecting rod bearings: 110001 Grade number for each connecting rod big end: 000000 Grade number for each cylinder block main journals: 2222 Grade number for each crankshaft main journals: F1111 So below will be the grades I need to order? Main bearing grade will be: 3333 Connecting rod bearing grade: 110001 I'm guessing that Z1 need both these grades even when ordering new eagle conrods and wiseco pistons? Thanks again, Ant

Very nice :bow: Ant

I am fitting a cometic headgasket, so would that be the reason to skim the block? I only ask as Uno reckons you don't need to skim the block? When you say porting, I guess your referring to the heads? If so then I wasn't planning on porting the heads, only recut the valve seats etc. If you don't mind me asking but how much did it cost to have the work done? skim and balancing etc. Cheers, Ant

It's been a few weeks since I last posted, so a little update. I managed to remove the whole Hicas system, from the rear Hicas system all the pipework under the car and the solienoid was removed ages ago. Replaced this with a Z1 Hicas elimination bar. I then moved onto the engine bay, removing a few bits ready to clean the bay up. Sealed a few bits up that I didn't want to get wet then went at the bay with some good old Gunk. This is the first time i've really used this stuff on some really thick ground in dirt. Applied then jet washed off, I done this a couple of times and this stuff is really good and removed some thick old dirt. I also cleaned up a few more small bits off the engine. I am thinking of relocating the battery to the boot and next I have to remove the battery tray as this is rusted up quite a bit. I also removed the brackets on the wings that held the hicas solenoid to the car. Hopefully the bay will be ready to rub down and spray up soon. A few more pics below of the before and after the cleaning of the bay. Cheers, Ant

Try this link below. I followed andyduff's post, its about the 10th one down I think. Hope it helps. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=42894&highlight=%22removing+engine%22 Ant __________________

I am going to order new forged pistons, conrods etc. Valve seats will be recut. Thanks for the other advice. Ant

Hi mate, I will find out how much it will cost me to send them to you and get back to you if that's ok? Cheers, Ant

I can't find it but will keep looking. Ant

At work at the moment but when I get home I will see if I still have the instructions for when I did mine. Ant

May seem like a stupid question, but I want to be sure and understand fully. I have the engine fully striped ready to go off and have the work done by a engineering company. Just want to know if some of the things listed is a must to be done. I apologise if they seem like stupid questions, but I'm trying to learn as much as possible and to do most of the work myself. Skimmed block? Clear castings flasings from block (that's a must) Block bored/ honed (that's a must) Crank balanced? Knife edged crank? Skim heads (guess that's a must) Anything I've missed for the engine shop to do? Does anyone know of any decent engineers near to me in the south east? Thanks in advance, Ant

Looking great :bow: Ant

:bow::bow:

I was not expecting anymore responses after my last post :D I'm glad there was a bit of a disscussion regarding lowering the CR just to see what other peoples opinions are. Thanks again, Ant

Excellent. Thanks again Smithy. Ant

Sorry Smithy just to confirm. With my rebuild with bigger tubs, injectors etc... Standard 8.5:1 woudl be fine? Just on a side note, what sort of circumstances would you require to go with custom CR? Cheers again, Ant

Im going for the 87.5 mm, but from Z1 they are asking about the Compression Ratio as well. I'm also installing the GT28r tubs and larger injecters etc. Would this affect my choice regards to the CR? Cheers, Ant