dougal200

99spec !!!

For anyone interested there is a swb set for sale here http://page3.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/c545006504

I've stripped mine down a few times without a problem, what did you manage to break?

I agree with the z1 issues I am still waiting for them to sort out a broken fog light they sent me in December, I've also had problems before in the past with them. I won't be using them in the future

I think you need to strip it down to replace the trim anyway. There are a few good guides out on the net.

I'm thinking of trying to get a few parts from yahoo actions in the near future, I'll have to see how that goes. I'll be in Tokyo next month so I'll see what I can fit in the suitcase

I voted yes but would need lots of advanced notice as I would have to fly back from hk

Well they are not being sent to Hong Kong, I was happy to pay up to cirtain amount but not that much

I've had an idea to name my car but you can use it if you want :thumbup:

Three things could be wrong Alternator not charging- I doubt it this as once it's running its fine Dead battery- as most people say I guess it's this- cold weather kills batteries- is it still under guarantee? Current drain- connect a multi meter in series with the battery and see how much current is flowing.

Some great bits here and some good dedication, looking forward to this coming together this year. Keep up the good work

I think there are quite a few people interested in these, I guess the price is going to pretty high. :thumbdown:

Lol- very clever

Well not quite. I just got back from a trip in Japan. Didn't manage to spot any z32s but I was lucky enough to ride the Shinkansen, I was quite surprised when I took a photo of the front, look familiar to anyone?

Happy new year from the othe side of the world, currently in Kyoto.

Wow I bet she goes a lot better after fixing both of those. What make was the silicon pipe? Chinese eBay?

It's still about 20 here, makes a nice change from the humid stickiness. Off to Osaka and Kyoto on Boxing Day for a week, hoping for some snow:thumbup:

They are a pain to get spot on

Here is a much better explanation https://z32.wikispaces.com/Idle+Control And a great service/tune up guide http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/922678/The-6-Ps-Proper-Preparation-Prevents-Piss-Poor-Performancegt.html

Welcome along to the exciting and often frustrating adventure. If I were to guess then I would say that the idle control valve is probably set too far closed. The manual screw is often confused as the idle speed adjustment where as it actually adjusts the balance between how much air the idle valve lets in mechanically/via the solenoid. Basically when at idle, you want the solenoid operating as slow as possible (it pulses open and closed many times per second). Tightening the screw in blocks off the bypass so less air goes in and the solenoid has to open more to meet the target rpm. This is fine in steady state idle but when you Rev it and let the revs drop the ecu tries to stop the engine stalling, however if the valve is already operating at 85% for example it has very little reserve to allow more air in to stop the stall. Sorry for the very wordy answer. Actually to get this all right you really need a data scan etc, they are very cheap off eBay and are really invaluable for these cars. There are quite a few guides out there for really setting these cars up right, once done you will be amazed how smooth they are. You should also chech the following Boost leaks Timing Corrosion on all connectors Throttle position voltage All fault codes Actually once you familiarise yourself with the engine, they are not that bad

This may not be directly related to the topic but I really advise all those who are finding their ride too hard to check their spring pre load. It makes a big difference to the ride quality. I run mine with as little as possible

I've been thinking about creating a 99 spec for the front of mine. The 3D should be easy enough, I drew up a 99spec front a few years ago. I'm just starting work on my new 1/12 kit

Ah yeah, opse 30 rear 25 front

I agree with si on the fittment,Just as an extra benchmark for you. I'm running a 19 x 9.5 on the back with a 265/30 and get a slight rub on std arches (to be corrected), I think with a roll you gain around 10mm so a 275 should be fine. This is running around 1 deg of camber. At the front I run a 19 x 8.5 with a 235/35 no rub and really needs a 5-10mm spacer to be flush. If you plan on this setup, get the real rolled before you respary unlike me :hammer:

Wishing you a speedy recovery