markstevens

Hi, does the manual gearbox from a Z fit onto an RB25 engine? Is there any forums that deal wiith this conversion? Thanks

Just looked up one of the polls on this subject, 80% said no problems after de cat.

There was a poll done on this subject some time ago, Might be worth lookuing it up.

Cheapest for Falken, brilliant service too. http://www.camskill.co.uk/

Not surprised, but had no time to do a big search

I use Shell V Power etc, but just wondering, I run a JD chip, what are these set up to use?

I know its not exactly help and advice but it would be helpful if the tax was lower. http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/Lowerduty30/

Although I agree new metal is the only real way to fix this, if your paint shop used filler, this is porous I think, and so the damp/rust gets back through it. If you use glass fibre or something similar after grinding away all the rust it will last many times longer. I used Araldite (?) on a car many years ago, it had the same problem, fixed it completely.

Thinking about it I had a similar problem years ago, with a 300, the pads were worn but not terrible. My guess is a build up of gasses/heat from the pad under hardish braking caused the vibration, different pads cured it.

I have not got spigot rings and I have no trouble, I know people say you need them but on many cars I have never found it so. Just 10p worth

How when and how fast does it shake?

I had a friendly disagreement with someone on here over the expansion bottle and the cap, and I was wrong both twice. However I have binned mine, and after the previous thread I have paid very close attention to my water level and it simply does not use any water.

Yes.

Overall thickness of the disc that the caliper was meant for needs to be considered, also diameter and height, center bore size, pcd can be changed. I think if you look here http://www.brakes4u.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=GD695 you can see most of the detail on loads of discs, so then the caliper can be worked out from there.

Added a suggestion that they make some locations for the northern areas, not that I am from the north, but many people cant drive all the way to London.

Put my ten pence worth, and I will be there.

I did wonder if that was my problem, but I had used it in the wet the time before and all was OK. Also, I think that after the engine has been running for a while, unless its raining very hard the water in the filter will be sucked through anyway. But, I am guessing. Anyone else?

Drove the car today after giving the temp sender connections a good clean yesterday, and, wait for it. Its OK again. So thanks guys, especially AndyDuff, I am very gratefull.

IIRC the revcounter does not drop, but I will check, thanks.

Yes, no one that close on the list though, so just have to do it the old way. But, its not raining today so maybe we can get it done...Cheers

I see, so I need to MAKE SURE its is clean, OK. Thanks for that.

I did bend the contacts slightly on the engine side to make sure they are touching, also, with the engine running if I take off the connector the electric fan starts up, so I am guessing that means the connector is making contact? Thats what I thought anyway.

Thanks (again), I have looked at the temp sensor, mild corrosion but it looks OK really. I will do an ECU code check tommorrow and prob borrow the MAF I tried before. If that fails I will contact someone from the list, :-)

Thanks, dont know anyone round here, Aylesbury Bucks, with a datascan/conzult thingy. I will have a look at the connection though and see if it looks OK. Cheers

Andy, thanks for the reply, I have not checked for error codes, TBH I forgot and it was raining so I just left it. I will do so and report back. Is there some check that I can do on the MAF? Dont know if you remember my earlier post about a misfire? I swapped MAF's then and the problem stayed the same, but when I was out on Sunday, car missed for a while at high boost then cleared up and ran well, switched it off and now its doing this. So it seems to be something thats "died"....