markstevens

Ummm, time to think I think...

Never would have thought of that, thanks.

As above, new 555 Nismo injectors, does not smoke rattle or knock, uses no oil or water, new cam belt and water pump 3k mles ago, engine done about 90 thousand kilometers. From a 92 SWB Manual. Would be sold complete and could be heard and even driven. Might also want to sell my manual box with hd clutch and Fidanza ally flywheel Fancy an RB engine in my Z, Just looking for a ball park figure to do some sums.. Thanks

You can do a bounce test to see if its the shocks.

I think I have a series one PTU you could borrow. I live in Aylesbury......

£2100.00 fully comp, anything, including my son whos 21, and he has been on my traders policy since he was 19. Full No claims (yes you do get noclaims in a trade policy)..

Ah, the old overflow tank thingy. I binned mine. no problems.

I had some wheels bought for me, not from Z1, but from the USA, and I am having issues with them. The initial saving pales into insignificance when something goes wrong and the company hides behind a few thousand miles of ocean. Its simply not worth the risk.

I am often surprised just how helpfull this forum really is, I for one could not do without it.

I had some brackets made to move the roiginal calipers out furhter from the center to fit 325mm GTR discs, made a very worthwhile improvement for very little cost. If you look on http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com/?source=googleebc&gclid=CPKh6tS_n5QCFQyD1Qodr3fbtA they list most of the dimensions needed to figure out if the caliper/disc will work on the Z. Some can be quite cheap if you move away from the "Usual Suspects" IIRC I did consider Discovery discs but they would not fit in my wheels.

Rear Seats? Not got any of those.... :-)

Changing the oil is pointless, unless you also drain the converter, which is hard to do, and make sure all of the crap is also removed from every other nook and cranny. And if its a solenoid, changing the oil is even more pointless, In My Humble Opinion. If you ring Ken at STA, get the number from 118118, he is in Aylesbury, he will tell you whats what. Further, if changing the filter is something that needs to be done because its semi blocked your box has had it anyway.

Thanks, my MOT is due very soon.

I think its because the box is trying to select two clutches at the same time, or a clutch and a band, so generally a "control" problem as opposed to a mechanical problem. Can also be caused by sticking valves in the valve body. If you phone someone who knows they will tell you.

Some of these do look really good.

If the problem was caused by damaged clutches they would be wrecked and smell, so yes its a good sign.

Thanks people, I think maybe I will go for one in the corner. I am not a Bass Head so really dont like it to overwhelm the rest of the music so dont need a big box. Does anyone have any drawings that work for a Shorty corner box?

I am thinking of making a box to fit in the back (boot) of my SWB. But I am thinking of making it so it fits the same shape as the boot floor, with a deeper section fitting into the spare wheel well. For example the same shape as the carpet. I want to keep enough room for my tagra panels. But I am not sure it will sound OK or not as it will only be perhaps four inches deep, but deeper into the spare wheel well. Ideas,thoughts? I have a 10" driver.

but the clutches and the box are one and the same thing.

Could mention the pipe near the balance bar that can be removed just to make the emissions better, sorry I cant remember which one it is...

I sent an email to Z1, they never even replied. At which point I gave up having decided that if they cant reply to an email what chance if something goes wrong? Posts on this thread seem to confirm it.

Castrol RS 10-60. Good so far.....And if you listen to the Oil Man and those who seem to know their stuff if you buy a good oil, fully synthetic, it will last longer and so costs less in the long run and gives better protection. Depending on the driving style Oil Man says up to 10k on good oil. IIRC

OK thanks. :-) The conclusion to the RB/VG gearbox link is that you swap the RB bellhousing onto the Z box and cut 1/8 inch off the main input shaft while you are at it. Makes it nice and simple.

Have you checked the "simple" things like track rod ends? Bottom ball joints?

OK, thanks for that Legrath, so I assume the Skyline box will be the same as a Z box in the gearlever location, gearbox mount and prop departments?