markstevens

Seems to be a trend here, 2 Fast 2 Cool are sh*t. Last time I will ever think about them getting my money.

I should be careful with 2 Fast 2 Cool, I have some and one pipe was too short. Easy to fix but thats not the point. Didnt return them becasue they were a present and it was from Xmas

Seeing as you are so close, as in another 15 minutes work, in my opinion you should look to make sure the rest are OK, but, your choice. If, however, when you start it up and the noise is still there, and if it turns out to be mains/end float related who can you blame? It probably is OK, but the word but can be a very big word. A friend of mine had the same reasoning as you, (R33 GTR) when his engine let go a few weeks later he was sorry he didnt look while he had the chance. :-)

And what were the mains like?

I had a funny knock on a Z that no one could identify, turned out to be end float on the crank. So if you are doing the big ends check the mains too esp the main bearing wth the end float bearing part. But I would replace the mains anyway as you are so close. The only one you cant do, if the engine is in the car is the rear main.

I have had two or three cars that crunch into gear when going fast, inc an R33 GTR, Clio 172. Redline HEAVY SHOCK oil can, and did, fix it. Not as good as a recon box but at about £40.00 a lot cheaper. Worth a try.

Thanks guys, but have since been looking on Ebay, (yes I know Ebay can be rubbish) they can be bought for less than £25.00 brand new, proper makes too. Just need to know the part number or type I supose to get the correct version. Anyone know?

Hi, I need some new or good second hand Lambda Sensors, where is the best place to get some? Cheers

I have a N/A 2 part prop available if you need it for the rear half.

I use Castrol RS 10/60 and have no issues at all. Oil change due soon, thinking of Castrol Edge. Running about 1 bar of boost.

I am no expert, and so I asked Oilman, he says synthetic lasts longer, the 3k oil change is what is needed using mineral oil. If you use synthetic you can double the miles between oil changes. It also keeps "in grade" longer and better. In short, it does a better job for longer.

If you dont fancy that, not sure why you wouldnt, Euro Car Parts are cheaper than Oilman on Castrol Edge.

This is true of course, Audi used to fit a switch on some of their Quattro cars to enable the ABS to be turned off just for snow etc. And I had a Seat Leon that dispplayed similar problems on slippery roads at very slow speeds, dealer said all was ok with the system. Makes you wonder why the maufactures dont disable ABS automatically below say 5 mph.

I have had no issues at all, so far at least, my current setup is standard calipers relocated to fit 325mm Skyline discs. Even with the cheapest pads, (fitted to get the car moving) the brakes are better than standard, although they do over heat quickly as you would expect. I have now got some Porterfields, is that right?, to go in but was going to fit the GTR calipers....Now not sure as I like ABS.

Quite!

Oh! Not very helpfull. I have heard that the GTR setup is OK, are you sure it was not your paritcular car? I have a set in my garage to go on, will have to investigate more now. Anyone else have first hand knowledge of GTR Brembos on the 300?

My understanding is that the Skyline GTR setup works fine on our cars with ABS, and anyone that needs more stopping power than the 325mm discs and Brembo calipers off a GTR provide needs their head looking at for road use.

I made some little brackets that pushed down on the connectors and kept them firmly in place. Using the coil pack bolts to secure. Its true a new loom or new connectors would be better but I wanted to see if this really was the problem. I will probably make some nice brackets in the spring.

I had a similar sounding problem, turned out that although the connectors on the coil packs fitted ok, the clips were all broken. Under hardish acceleration the engine moved just enough to pull the connectors off some of the coil packs just enough to cause a miss fire.....And when I checked them they had dropped down and looked good again.

Oh Well, could well be. :-)

With all due respect, you started off not knowing, and now you are 100% sure. But, from your description the filter could well be blocked. And as Jeff says, it will probably not last forever but in your situation it might well get you going. But, whatever.

Why dont you try what JeffTT says?

Bit hard to tell as I have not sorted the proshaft yet, LOL. Thats the bit thats send the drive to the axle. I wil post when its done. :-)

Yes, sort of, I went away for a week and my son had it done for me as a suprise. But I had no sorted the prop shaft. I have now though, just have to give the makers a measurement for them to make me a new single piece one. So I guess it will be another week or so.

The importance of oil is very often overlooked. There are probably several threads on here by the Oil Man, they can get a bit technical though if you just think of oil as something oily, lol. In very simple terms: Fully Synthetic, lasts longer, protects better. Costs more but is the only way to go. Lower number, ie the "10" in 10 60, referes to cold performance, the "60" to high temp performance.