markstevens

Thanks for the replies. Jaffa, not loose coil packs, I checked all the simple things straight away. Quavey, dont think so because it happens so suddenly, it simply stops working (the engine). AS for the MAF, this is my feeling. Loose throttle, no, checked, but thanks. Plastic bag? I wil go and look now, lol, but there is no fuel smell at all, and below 5k ish rpm its fine. Markzx, did your car feel like mine when your MAF died, or started to die? Just a big hole above 5K? And I agree Maz that it doesnt "feel" like a fuel pump problem. Thanks Guys.

If I open the throttle slowly it will get there but any more than about half and the engine just dies, completely cuts out, foot off the gas and its OK again. Cut my boost to half a bar just to make sure it was not over boosting and its the same, no obvious air/boost leaks. Idle is fine if a bit high but then it always is, so its the same. Switched it off last time and it was sweet, started this time and this is happening, so guessing electrical????? Feels like an old fashioned carb engine when its too cold to run without the choke, if you know what I mean? ie running too lean. Any ideas before I start to pull things off? MAF maybe? Thanks in advance.....

I have known Ken since I was about 14, and I am now 50, so some time. He knows his stuff. :-)

I have had both, first an auto, now the manual. MUCH prefer the manual, even when just pottering about, the 300 seems to be more a manual car than an auto. Have you tried Ken at STA? He knows his stuff when it comes to autos. Tell him I sent you.

To get this much police attention he had probably not paid a parking ticket, or parked on a yellow liine or something.

I run 19", ride and handling is all good, no tramlining. No rubbibg etc either. Agree that for track use 18" might be better but road use go for the 19", they look loads better than smaller wheels. 235 front, 265 rear.

If its whistling under de acceleration could this noise be the sucking of air in? Which might tie up with your possible boost leak? Blowing and sucking as it were at the same place?

Bit of a long one but did you scrape the underneath? If so, no idea where the fuel lines run but maybe they got squashed a bit?

If the filter is blocked then this is an early sign of doom. And anyway, often the crap falls off the filter when the engine is off, and it only blocks the filter again after a little while. Delayed engagment is, I feel, a typical sign that the box is on its way out. If I remember correctly it happens because the fluid escapes around the piston for a short while before it eventualy moves the piston and then engages the clutch. A bodge, but if you are thinking of changing it anyway, pour half a litre of thinners into the box, this can swell the seals and make them work better, for a while. BEWARE, it can go wrong. Up to you.

I bought Skyline 325mm discs (front), slotted and dimpled and had some brackets made up to move the original calipers, easy to do, and the brakes are lots better than standard, total cost less than £250.00. Look loads better too instead of the weedy original 280mm discs.

This too is correct, I am being dumb on this subject. I will get my coat.

I agree he has a problem, and another one with his car.

Ok, had a look and you are correct, And it does seem to be there to allow the water back into the rad. However for this to work the overflow tank would need to be sealed and under enough pressure, (after water has entered from the rad) for it to return. On mine there was a silly plastic cap and I seem to remember it not being sealed. But I could be wrong. Sorry, I was wrong.

OK. I will have a look. lol

Well, the disc I assume you are refering to doesnt move, its the spring with the seal on the bottom of it that moves upwards away from your disc when the rad gets too hot to let the pressure out of the rad. So, I still think I am right. Anyone else?

What if the dilithium crystal's are out of phase?

Not looking to argue, well not in an unfriendly way. But, how does the cap allow water back in? Surely as it has a spring loaded washer sealing the rad there is no way for it to do so. So a vacuum simply causes the rad cap to seal more tightly? The simple fact is (it seems to me) that when the pressure drops in the rad the cap seals the rad, and if there was some "bleed hole" in the cap then it would leak as soon as the temp got up slightly, and as the water in the rad would not be under any pressure the water would boil sooner, and round it goes. And anyway, my car uses so little water that its not a problem, not sure if that makes me correct or not. :-)

It seems to me that as the rad has a pressure cap, with asping keeping it shut until the water gets too hot any water that escapes into the other tank, which is not sealed anyway, will just sit there and can not return because a) the rad ca[p will close when the pressure drops, and b) the overflow tank is not sealed so there is no pressure there to make it return to the rad. And it covers the intercooler. :-( Mine looses a very small amount over some months, and I have chucked the overflow tank in the bin.

:-(

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/300zx-HKS-Auto-Line-Controller_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33727QQihZ018QQitemZ280225220895QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Nothing to do with me...

Thanks....I have done it now, do I get a prize for the first one to add feedback?

And how do we do it? :-)

Bump..

Is it working yet? And if so how do I use it. Cheers....

I like them. :-) And note the smiley just in case, lol.