General Discussions - 300ZX Related

just passed a lovely looking black zed in Woolwich, it was heading towards blackwall tunnel and had a nice deep roar coming from the exhausts this was about 10:40am, was it anybody from here?

silver 2+2 with veilside kit do you live local ? did pull in to fitnessfirst but you went st8 on .

hi im siting a12 Waiting for recovery 1 30 Minqs anyone help collect rad tmrw please+

does anyone know how to get in touch with speedemon need info about car i bought off him.

A corroded front member that is!!!! Despite the worse that Britains weather had thrown at this front section our mighty welder won the day. Really is worth inspecting your zed in this area as it is not just a section that hold the radiator in place, the tension rod arm brackets are secured here and the whole front suspension is reliant on there been no movement here. The cost of a new front member and the two side brackets is more than £250 and then the cutting out and welding back in place is a massively labour intentive job. So with afm air box, air con, rad and fan removed the work began, so bad was this one the rad supporting brackets had come awa…

The positive terminal clamp on the battery has cracked and doesn't grip onto the post well. I've bought some new terminals to replace the existing ones and have replaced the negative terminal fine, but realised that if I cut off the existing positive terminal (cracked one) to replace it, there's not going to be enough length in the wire to install the new terminal! Is uncrimping the wire from the terminal an option? Or is there a simple way to get an extra inch out of it? I've tried re-routing it and that hasn't given me enough extra length... what are my options? Would cutting it and splicing in an extra bit of wire work?

saw a nice off white zed today outside motor mania in shrewsbury at 3.20pm today.any one on here maybe..lee:thumbup:

Not a new thing but a clear case of reduced water flow though this particular lower hose. The cause of this in the main is the internal structure of the pipe has failed, made worse in this case by low water level causing an increased vacuum when the engine is switch off after a run. An easy thing to be blissfully aware of but potential to ruin your day of course, another one of those things to add to your list of must do`s. Jeff TT

The other day my fantastic Z failed the MOT test for two crimes 1. Wrong colour side light bulbs they were white with a shade of blue, so subtle I didn’t even notice they were blue, honest. 2. The smallest corrosion split ever in the middle section of the exhaust pipe = gas leak. It was on a bend and I was told it was not weldable. I was running out of time so I got them to put things right, I had the new ss exhaust delivered to them from zcentre, nice, they fitted it for £50 put the new bulbs in for £2.50 and issued a new MOT. Lambda sensor wires not connected as an advisory, the inspector said next time it may fail it on that issue. Question - OK all that aside si…

theres been a silver Z parked in wrexham for a while now, just wondering if it was anyone on here?

When I got the car 10 months ago, the oil pressure gauge just moved from cold and then after 10 mins would settle back to zero and would not move again until another start from cold then the same would happen. :confused1: About 6 months ago I got a Stack oil pressure gauge in bar for the 3 pod pillar mount, this works a treat and is connected to the sandwich plate. At the time of fitting I had the stock guage sender cleaned out, which I thought made no difference at the time as the same occurred. :tt1: Took the clocks apart to fit the blue smd odometer illumination and I was fiddling with the oil pressure needle once more. Now, I can only call it a coiled spring c…

having had an email off jeff as what to do i set timing gun and it was 40deg btdc as i turned cas as it was fully advanced to bring it to 15deg btdc ,took it for a spin and misses and not much power the cas is almost fully retarded now.

As we all know, having glow dials stuck over the originals, the low fuel light does not shine through one bit :cursing: The orange capped bulb did work as I have seen it light up when I had the clocks out. Now, with me having an aftermarket steering wheel I have no need for the red Airbag light in the centre. I also know that another relocation for low fuel indication is the bottom left corner somewhere, but I have, yes you have guessed it, used the Airbag light :yes: The wires just don't reach so with a little extension I have just touched or trapped the two under the bulb holder. After about 20 more miles, the new 'low fuel light' come on, the next 15 or so mile…

its a jap spec twin turbo on a G plate. mine for some reason decided to fall off and now its a bit smashed beyond repair. can anyone please help?

been having intermittent boost spikes, sometimes boosts right through the revs, sometimes drops off quite badly about 4500 revs-ish, about 14.5 when boosting properly, had 1mm boost jets that were in it when i bought her, decided to remove em last night, took her for a spin, and although only about 9.5 psi and a bit slower, very consistent boosting. i'm guessing the only proper way around this is to fit an EBC? bit skint at the mo, anything else i can do? cheers, tudor...

(used Quavey's pic from his for sale thread, hope you don't mind matey) The blank type thing, that is on the section of trim that goes under the steering column/near ya knees.... probably everyone knows but me, but need to ask!

Spotted you this afternoon - not seen that one before!

hi im looking at some new wheels for my 300zx there are loads of 5x114's about but ive been told to get a et30 offset but if i found some around et40 anybody fitted these before without problems? i have a n/a model but have turbo brakes fitted. cheers

I need the help of some professionals. I just planted my foot and as soon as it started to spool it felt like it hit a limiter. It was not nice! happened around 3,500 revs. I free revved it and it went past 3,500. It was only when it was under load. It wasn't a one off either, its been doing it all day. Any ideas on what it could be guys? Maybe a boost leak or electrical connection. If it helps the car has been sat on a jack with the right side in the air for about 5 days. Mark

lovely looking with modded rear lights and side skirts i believe. 7am on haverhill bypass

Well the police have found my engine. It was found very near the unit it was stolen from. The problem i now have is that i am breaking my car and no longer have the heart or the money to start again. Apart from that my work load has doubled and i am finding myself further away from home than i have been used to. Just when i thought the insurance where going to pay up so i would get at least three quaters of the 15k ive spent on it, It appears. So if any body wants it make me a reasonable offer please do. Steve.

But at least only 1 front wishbone 2 bulbs handbrake and head light aim!!

hello out of curiosity has anyone did a n/a to twin turbo conversion before? How much is it roughly and what would i need j

I kinda like it! (I think :whistling:) :yes: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-300zx-non-Turbo-/110578235312?pt=Automobiles_UK

Hiya bud , just need to pick your brains again :yes: I,ve put the auto alternator loom back on as you recommended , there,s the three connectors , starter , speed controller and i gather the other one the isolator connector that i need to bridge ? You said i need to make a connection loom for the reverse lights , which connector on the box is the reverse switch ? These are the original connections for the autobox , i gather the reverse needs to be re-connected to one of these but which one bud ? also which one is the neutral plug that i also need to bridge ? Sorry to be a pain bud but i,ve searched high and low to find the answers but all i can find is …