General Discussions - 300ZX Related

Reg started: G563 Very nice looking zed, you past me in Shrewsbury town centre, you stopped at the lights by the train station just after 12 noon. Would of followed you and said hi, but i was in the other lane heading out of town.

I'm having brake judder when I brake that I Though was wrapped disks but I have now noticed that my Tires are wearing on the inside!! What part of the suspension is worn? I have poly bushes the tension arm all the rest is Stock on 100k miles Any help greatly appreciated

Does anyone know where I can get a set of clear side repeaters from as they all have 2 lugs where mine, weirdly has 3 although it is the jap spec

who was it? i was in red 300 with fmic :) Tom

Hi all, I need help pretty urgently. What's the quickest and easiest way to remove a short wheel base fuel tank without alot of agro please? Cheers, Nick

I have a major oil leak from the crank seal. From visual checking it seems its coming from where the gear box meets the engine at the bell housing. This was probably due to me putting in an automatic line controller for the automatic gear box.. Where do I go to fix this? Anyone in London or Greater London that can advice where I can go to fix it or help? :confused1::confused1::confused1:

Is there going to be any big builds finishing soon? i know of lots going on eg mac 1, andygp. I just love seeing the finished thing.

is there any differance between a NA plennum and a TT ?

has anyone bought one of these before and do they have any recommendations http://www.celoxperformance.com/filters.html

hiya guys iv ftted a new rear bumper to my car and i really want to get some paint on it, im good with a can painting smaller areas but want to know if you lot reckon a bit of can experience and a few hours will see a good finish on a rear bumper. im completely changing the coulour, yellow bumper on a grey car so will be using grey acrylic or 2k paint mix up in can. i dont want to get it done pro cos im thinking of having a whole car respray but not yet.

Hi all, is there a list or something which details all the differences between the SWB TT and LWB TT for parts etc? cheers James

just passed a lovely looking black zed in Woolwich, it was heading towards blackwall tunnel and had a nice deep roar coming from the exhausts this was about 10:40am, was it anybody from here?

silver 2+2 with veilside kit do you live local ? did pull in to fitnessfirst but you went st8 on .

hi im siting a12 Waiting for recovery 1 30 Minqs anyone help collect rad tmrw please+

does anyone know how to get in touch with speedemon need info about car i bought off him.

A corroded front member that is!!!! Despite the worse that Britains weather had thrown at this front section our mighty welder won the day. Really is worth inspecting your zed in this area as it is not just a section that hold the radiator in place, the tension rod arm brackets are secured here and the whole front suspension is reliant on there been no movement here. The cost of a new front member and the two side brackets is more than £250 and then the cutting out and welding back in place is a massively labour intentive job. So with afm air box, air con, rad and fan removed the work began, so bad was this one the rad supporting brackets had come awa…

The positive terminal clamp on the battery has cracked and doesn't grip onto the post well. I've bought some new terminals to replace the existing ones and have replaced the negative terminal fine, but realised that if I cut off the existing positive terminal (cracked one) to replace it, there's not going to be enough length in the wire to install the new terminal! Is uncrimping the wire from the terminal an option? Or is there a simple way to get an extra inch out of it? I've tried re-routing it and that hasn't given me enough extra length... what are my options? Would cutting it and splicing in an extra bit of wire work?

saw a nice off white zed today outside motor mania in shrewsbury at 3.20pm today.any one on here maybe..lee:thumbup:

Not a new thing but a clear case of reduced water flow though this particular lower hose. The cause of this in the main is the internal structure of the pipe has failed, made worse in this case by low water level causing an increased vacuum when the engine is switch off after a run. An easy thing to be blissfully aware of but potential to ruin your day of course, another one of those things to add to your list of must do`s. Jeff TT

The other day my fantastic Z failed the MOT test for two crimes 1. Wrong colour side light bulbs they were white with a shade of blue, so subtle I didn’t even notice they were blue, honest. 2. The smallest corrosion split ever in the middle section of the exhaust pipe = gas leak. It was on a bend and I was told it was not weldable. I was running out of time so I got them to put things right, I had the new ss exhaust delivered to them from zcentre, nice, they fitted it for £50 put the new bulbs in for £2.50 and issued a new MOT. Lambda sensor wires not connected as an advisory, the inspector said next time it may fail it on that issue. Question - OK all that aside si…

theres been a silver Z parked in wrexham for a while now, just wondering if it was anyone on here?

When I got the car 10 months ago, the oil pressure gauge just moved from cold and then after 10 mins would settle back to zero and would not move again until another start from cold then the same would happen. :confused1: About 6 months ago I got a Stack oil pressure gauge in bar for the 3 pod pillar mount, this works a treat and is connected to the sandwich plate. At the time of fitting I had the stock guage sender cleaned out, which I thought made no difference at the time as the same occurred. :tt1: Took the clocks apart to fit the blue smd odometer illumination and I was fiddling with the oil pressure needle once more. Now, I can only call it a coiled spring c…

having had an email off jeff as what to do i set timing gun and it was 40deg btdc as i turned cas as it was fully advanced to bring it to 15deg btdc ,took it for a spin and misses and not much power the cas is almost fully retarded now.

As we all know, having glow dials stuck over the originals, the low fuel light does not shine through one bit :cursing: The orange capped bulb did work as I have seen it light up when I had the clocks out. Now, with me having an aftermarket steering wheel I have no need for the red Airbag light in the centre. I also know that another relocation for low fuel indication is the bottom left corner somewhere, but I have, yes you have guessed it, used the Airbag light :yes: The wires just don't reach so with a little extension I have just touched or trapped the two under the bulb holder. After about 20 more miles, the new 'low fuel light' come on, the next 15 or so mile…

its a jap spec twin turbo on a G plate. mine for some reason decided to fall off and now its a bit smashed beyond repair. can anyone please help?