Steve-o

So your car was a she then too! I think anything that you need to give that much love and attention as a Z has to be a she.

I would do mate, but my Z has just died, so I cant get there lol. Look on TT net too for a buying guide, theres a good one on there.

Yeh and it takes all your money lol :D

Ah yeh but we all call it the Z, but when I talk about the car on a more personal level she a she lol i.e. yeh she's ****ed at the mo lol

Hahahaha you cheeky fecker!!!! Wait till its all sorted then I'll show ya!

Hmmm, I heard mixed things about them, some bad some good. I really want to go somewhere where its all good ;)

All this talk about my Z dying is doing my head in so I thought I'd mention a lighter topic? What do you refer to your Z as? For some bizzare reason I always call HER by she? the fact is It just seems to sound right to me? lol. I know the Z really isnt girly in any way, but she's still my beast lol. So what do you refer to your Z as? or is it just me going insane? another thing when the car has a prob when i'm driving I sometimes find my self talking to the car?.....hmmmm....i'll get me coat lol

I am subscribed matey its just not been updated :( been waiting for a week now! steven_andrewsATlycos.co.uk No random porn please lol

Right then, I can turn my hand to lots of stuff, but replacing the tubbies etc is a bit out of my league, I havn't got the tools or the time. Who would you guys recomend that KNOW what they are actually doing with a Z instead of guessing?

Sure no probs mate, give me a shout closer to the time, I havnt got anything planned so it should be fine ;)

Think so matey, it's not looking promissing, expecially since the other probs that have now come up :(

I recently replaced my water pump mate, it's a good day's work, if you need any advice / help give me a shout.

Yes mate no probs, maybe at the weekend? if im mobile and the Z is working?

i was there with the Z all sat had to leave sun lunch time my head was killing from the night and day before!

Im sure they are a manufacturer which make zorsts for jap companies, a friend of mine bought a Z and the chap he bought it from said it was HKS, also HKS on the receipt? His has also decided to eject the stuffing from it lol, sounds ok though.

I had the same prob yesterday matey, but I also have tubby probs. As far as I can summise, my car was boosing 16psi fine for about an hour like you say, after this I was flooring it and it was registering 5psi on my aftermarket guage. Still running on safety boost for a while if I floored it, it seemed it smelt rich and also sounded like it was debting. On the consult I also had a prob registering with me left o2 sensor, it was a bit hit and miss, first off it was stuck on .3, whilst the other was fluxing at 2k rpm between the normal level of .4-.7 After some time and trying again the right bank was .4-.7 still and the left was .3-.5 so seemed to be pretty imbalanced although working a bit better. This is the only other prob other than the smoking that I have had which seems to be tubby seals. If your o2 sensor was reading a bit dicky seems a bit odd mine was behaving exactly the same with a funny o2 sensor. (unless by any chance you have tubby probs too?) Good luck mate, Steve p.s. good to see you at billing matey :D

Did he wire it into the original switch to the ignition and constant live from the old head unit? I had a problem where when I wired my head unit into the ignition and dvd etc, it drained so much power from the circuit the clock and some other bits didnt want to work at the same time. I wired in a new one indipendant of the rest and it was fine, I dont suppose he took a feed from the light circuit? just a guess, my first would have been fuses, but as you already checked that :confused:

Actually just thought, gary ran a consult on my car last night didnt he? The left 02 sensor was playing up at first but then seemed to sort itself out, im gonna replace them anyway when im doing everything else. When he checked the cylinders, cyclinder one came up as not being efficient but all others were fine, we ran the check again though and it came out fine the second time, perhaps its an intermitent prob thats now a permenant one that I hadnt noticed before??? Oh the speculation, hate it when things like this happen is it this is it that, it could be this that leads to that lol, ffs

Rubbed down some before and primed and sprayed with 2P, then laquered, seemed to turn out really well, but the laquer I used was a bit crappy as it seemed to flake off a little. Other than that seemed fine, IF your going to get them refurbed though, why not try it anyways? you havnt got much to loose apart from 20.00 of paint and a hir of a compressor (bout 15 quid here for a weekend). If you loose 35.00 well, at least you tried and you can still get em refurbed, but if it turns out mint then you saved a coupkle of hundred quid :D

Harve does a camber adjustment kit for the front, but this is to correct it, you can change it with the various pates that he gives you with the kit to whatever you need. AFAIK you dont need to do the back? its only the fronts that go on lowering?? You could eliminate the hicas by removing the sensor on the back of the wheel, but that is a bodge job so wouldnt personaly do it. Best to buy a propper kit.

Well I fried one on the way to meet you, and then you had a run in with one as I remember seeing you go flying by, I went to have some fun too but put me foot down and nothing happened :( Guess 5psi at 120 doesnt do much lol. Cheers anyways matey, I will pop down sometime and we can show up all the riced up hatches that go along the sea front all night long lol, nice to see u @ billing too mate, (and the rather overly extended trip there, thanks to marcus! lol) your cars looking good to mate btw :D looked shit hot in the mirror, should have took some photos. Steve

p.s good luck fixing it too matey :D seems like we all got probs come up over the past week, I met about three ppl who has turbos go on the way up to :(

You should have water comming out of the bleed screw or cap if you remove it when hot. It could also be the small rubber hoses (about 4" each) that are attached to the two main pipes carrying water in and out of the head. They are the two large silver pipes located at the front of the head with the two sensors on top. They are attached to the head by two 4" rubber hoses that are prone to leaking over time, it could be squirting out of there if there is a hairline crack to somewhere else or the steam could just be drifting out from there and escaping looking like its comming from the passenger side. Another prob is that the water pump seal could have gone, but that would mean that you would see coolant dripping from the crank pulley from underneath. Other than that, its probably what was sugested above, I would also get system pressure tested if its none of the above because that could also cause the steam under pressure if its not tight.

p.s even with the coolant leak your temp sensor will work as even if there is not a great deal of water in the engine, the hot air passing through will still make the sensor read high. The only thing to really watch out for, (i wouldnt recomend moving it at all) but if you must go to the garage to get it done, then fill her right up, keep your heater on full, as soon as the heater starts to go cold in the slightest (well still on full) you should stop, cause the coolant isnt passing through anymore and taking the heat away, means your engine will fry soon if you dont stop when this happens (or of course your thermostat is fooked, but we already know its your rad leaking so thats ok) Steve

Your temp gauge runs off of the sensor on the top coolant pipe going into the head (not the yellow one the black connector) they arn't in my opinion a very good fit as the wires are very strained, if you pulled things around when fitting the bovs, you may have pulled something that was caught on this and loosened it a bit, take it off clean it and put it back on. As for the rad, thats not a bad prob at all, its easy enough to get out on the Z, just take the shroud off, then the pipes and the two clips on top, then it lifts out of a shelf its perched on. I wouldnt think they are very expensive 100-200? Just remember to fill the rad up after and bleed all the air out of the bleed screw on the right side of the car (drivers) Good luck matey