Joely P

Ooooh acpf have a new look website! The bumper was still available when I checked recently.

He’s about to find out! I’d rather have a 180mph UK cluster myself.

I’d be inclined to give it a go with the dremel method first if the plenum has never been off! It’s quite likely that things would be damaged on removal, particularly the hardened fuel and vacuum hoses. If you have an old crusty harness, you also run the risk of introducing defects there. If you do decide to give it a go, at the very least you’ll need an upper plenum gasket and the blanking kit for the deletes. I’d also recommend renewing all of the fuel lines from the fuel filter, replacing the filter, the fuel pressure regulator and the dampener. Failing that, take it to Jimmer!

No, it has an Impul bumper.

When you bought your blue replacement for the purple beast, you probably had one of the cleanest cars in the club. Then you thought, hmmm, this could do with cleaning up a bit [emoji848] Now you probably have one of the cleanest cars in the world! I think you need to build a wall of glass around that!

Isn’t the horn supposed to be loud? :rofl:

:drool: :clap: :thumbup: :thumbup1: :rockon:

This is a valid point and maybe we are too harsh in the critique of the cars that come up for sale. I’m all up for encouraging buying these cars with the intention for a full restoration but it’s always worth pointing out the general costs of carrying out these repairs to a lasting standard. The reality at this moment in time, is that you can (generally) still buy a tidy car that doesn’t need extensive welding for less than the cost of the above car plus quality restoration. As soon as that balance shifts, I’m sure the buying advice on this type of car will change. With reference to the £10k cars, I would suggest that those cars have had significantly more than the asking price invested into them. Some of the high price tag cars are priced due to the originality but even some of those have been known to have hidden horrors! As you rightly said, we should be encouraging new members to buy these cars but I certainly believe they should be making an informed decision of what they’re buying. I would also argue that advising new members (or any members) to fix these issues by installing poor quality aftermarket arms could actually be counterproductive as the dynamics of the ride quality are now altered and the frequency of parts to be replaced is increased. Please don’t take any of these comments as a dig, I am an enthusiast that would encourage anyone to take the plunge and enjoy owning and driving these cars. However, with so many different paths to take with the upkeep of them and it’s always good to keep a healthy debate of opinions which can help people make an informed decision.

Yeah, a club member has a white one with stuff painted red, like some BBS centre caps and a red Z badge. Bit gash isn’t it! :rofl:

How a tester would know whether the HICAS isn’t working I don’t know but I think it’s quite rare for them to fail altogether. The most common fault with the HICAS system is the power steering fluid level sensor which brings on the HICAS light. At this age, many also suffer from worn ball joints on the rear steering rack, causing slight play in the wheels and as that MOT you mentioned points out, you can get leaks from the rack seals. The cost of repairing and maintaining the HICAS system is generally more than the cost of deleting it which is why I think many people choose to get rid. Folk that like to drift theirs would understandably get rid as it would be rather unhelpful and the track enthusiasts generally delete it because they want to be in full control (if that’s the right way of putting it!). Personally, I have kept mine serviceable and find it a useful driver aid. There are different types of lockout methods, some rely on the ball joints to be serviceable. There is also an option to convert the rear subframe to one from a non turbo variant as these didn’t have the HICAS system. This simplifies the back end (and the engine bay if required), it also gives you a faster acceleration due to the gearing but as a trade-off it means you’ll be higher up the rev band at any given speed.

How new is the battery?

Not only that, it’s ridiculously expensive these days!

On the occasions when it dies, do you get anything on the first 2 clicks of the key and then it goes blank when you turn the key to engine start? Or does it just not come to life on the dash at all?

E8ven probably owns one of them!

I have a WS harness and whilst the quality is adequate, it does lack the “finished” quality of the OEM harness. I would always opt for an OEM one of you can get one, even if it’s LHD (which the WS are anyway even though they charge a premium for the RHD one!). Z1 also make their own harness now which seems to be reviewed well, but as far as I know, they can’t make them quick enough! Another shout here for Jimmer’s kindness and generosity, if it wasn’t for Jim I would certainly not have a Z any more!

Simon, I hope you’re also including 2.5” intake piping in your list?

True. But if you follow the current recommended starting point for modifying a VG by installing 2.5” intakes/coolers, high flow manifolds and 3” downpipes, you will likely hit a high duty cycle at stock boost. Those modifications with a bar of boost is the way forward so the injectors are the limiting factor.

I bought a car cover for my old Z when I didn’t have a garage, it cost around £60 and it was rather “windy” the first time I used it. The following morning, I found it in some farmland round the corner occupied by sheep! The straps had torn at the seams!

SpecialtyZ only sell the 740cc injectors. If you inform Greg of your setup he will email you the Nistune file to upload to your car.

I would’ve said these were essential when removing the calipers for any length of time. My Z has been parked in the garage with no calipers installed (for too long now!) and I wouldn’t have even considered not blanking the lines and the caliper ports.

I went for the 740s purely based on the fact that I purchased them with a generic chip from SZ where Greg Dupree has literally mapped 100’s of cars with a similar setup, so has an reliable off the shelf chip. They’re worthwhile in the states where E85 is becoming widely available as the flow rates can be utilised, even with everything relatively stock, however in the UK, for a mild tune, 615cc is more than enough for most applications and are usually a bit cheaper. The 740cc (and 615) Tomei/Nismo injectors are designed and manufactured at that specific flow rate whereas competing injectors of a similar cc are generally modified from lower flow rates (redrills) and these aren’t renowned for being as reliable or accurate in performance. When I purchased mine, I had spoken to Greg Gush at Protuner for advice beforehand who suggested that he manufactures his own injectors in house based on the exact requirements of the car. This was an attractive path to go down but at the time I couldn’t find any real world reviews on the quality of longevity of these injectors (even though the company has such a good rep), so I opted to go for the tried and tested Nismos. If I was to do it again, I’d probably opt for injectors from Protuner, it removes all doubt about the legitimacy of the product being fitted and makes for a great all in one package when having the car mapped there. Should an injector fail at the fault of the injector, I’m sure that the the customer would be well looked after.

You should start a new project thread and put some pics of your car. Lots of members would be interested to see it and many of the older members will remember it as a bit of an icon back in the day!

That looks fantastic [emoji41]

You can order a replacement old style injector from Nissan and I think they’re still available, but they will set you back around £570 each! https://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/nissan/nissan-1660040p07-injector-fuel/ You’re possibly better off biting the bullet and getting yourself a new set from Nismo/Tomei, fit and forget. I would recommend either the 615 or the 740cc but make sure you buy from a reputable supplier, I purchased mine from SpecialtyZ. Otherwise, stick up a wanted thread for a good used one to get you by until you get an uprated set. Thanks about the Z, it’s still going strong after it’s Jimmer engine build and has been very much pampered in my 11 years of ownership! Edit: sorry for the thread hijack Luke!

Happy Birthday Stranger! [emoji106]